cutting laminate worktops

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disco_monkey79

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I've never done this before, so advice please!

I've ordered a circular saw, and I'm going to clamp a straight edge to the top, as a guide.

Is there anything I should be aware of? How do I ensure the laminate face of the worktop doesn't chip/crack/tear? I've seen some kitchens where this has happened, and it looks awful - this is for my kitchen, so I want it perfect (not that I'd want to do a shoddy job for anyone else)!

FYI, I only need to make cuts at 90 degrees, thankfully!

Many thanks
 
Not done a kitchen for years, but I fear I am about to give in to the wife's demands for a new one. When I last did one I did the final cut on the worktops by trimming with a router which left a perfect finish.

Of course that's assuming you have one?

Colin.
 
A router will provide you with a very nice sharp edge but with a little care it's also possible to get an excellent finish straight off the circular saw too. I'll admit up front that I don't have a lot of experience cutting laminate tops but I put in a temporary kitchen for us last year and in preparation I had a good long practice on some old laminated tops to make sure I had the technique down.

The most important rule is that the laminate must be face down so that the cutting teeth of the blade don't chip the laminate. The cut should also start at the rolled edge (front) and proceed to the square edge (back) of the work surface. I broke this rule on one cut because I had very restricted cutting space and chipped the laminate :?. The blade mustn't wander either or the descending teeth of the blade could cause chipping so a straight guide is needed. Take the cut steady when you start to make sure that you slice cleanly through the rounded face of the laminate, after that you can push through at a fairly normal pace. Finally, use a good sharp (new) blade.

If you need to join two lengths of work surface together you will need a router to cut the recesses for the bolts. Alternatively I suppose you could use one of the aluminium joint covering strips and a block of wood but it doesn't look as good.
 
Brill, thanks for the reply! I'll whip out an old section and practise on that, before letting loose on the new stuff!

Jut so's I've got it right, you're saying I should have the worktop upside down, to cut it (so the saw is sitting on the bottom of the worktop), and start the cut from the beveled edge, going towards the rear of the worktop?

Thanks again!
 
Yes, exactly.

A diagram would explain this easily but I don't have time to produce one right now. The blade on a circular saw rotates to that the front edge is rising. Chipping will mostly occur on the face that the blade exits the wood through so with a circular saw this means the face that the body of the tool is resting on. Hence when cutting laminate you want it laminate side down.

The reason for starting the cut at the bevelled / rounded side is basically the same. If you think what would happen if you cut from the back towards the bevel you will see that as the blade approaches the bevelled edge it becomes almost completely unsupported and hence liable to chip badly.
 
A way to improve the quality of cut (ie. limit splintering the laminate in tha face of the board) is to have a piece of MDF or similar under it and set the depth of cut around 3mm into it. This should help even if the quality of the saw and blade are not top notch. The secondary effect of doing this is that both sides of the cut material is supported so it does not snap before the cut is complete, often causing damage to the laminate of the bit you want.
I didn't always have Festools to make my life simpler and had to learn some hard lessons! :lol:
Rob.
 
Good morning,
A circular saw may provide fine results under condition of carefully cutting the panel as described in that document. You just have to thoroughly start cutting from the front edge to the back one that is generally concealed.
Best Regards
 
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