Cutting groove into door for drop seal

[HOJ]

A router with long side fence is the best option, I have made a special double sided fence, that bolts on, for other purposes, that works well, as the router is positioned from both faces of the door and can't run off.

 

[1animal1]

A router with long side fence is the best option, I have made a special double sided fence, that bolts on, for other purposes, that works well, as the router is positioned from both faces of the door and can't run off.

Tbh I'm now sick of thinking about it, I'm just going to get a new router. I've been looking at the Bosch 1400ae but then also a second hand Makita... the Makita is 1/2" chuck which might be best for my next job cutting mortice for a new pair of gates

 

[MF1000]

Simple solution until you replace the door could be a soft sausage type draught excluder ….long tube of fabric filled with old socks/tights/ or wadding pushed against the gap when you’re in your office. A lot of the noise will also be radiated by the door panel itself too, so another idea is a pull across heavy curtain on the inside of the room which would dampen this and if long enough act as the gap filler too.

 

[Housey210]

Hi, thanks for accepting me. I've got a few woodworking projects coming up and figured that it might be a good idea to join up for some expert advice.

My first project is to fit a door drop seal onto an internal door. The groove needs to be 14mm wide and 35mm deep. I'm struggling to find a long 14mm router bit so I'm currently considering a 12.7mm and doing a pass off each side of the pencil line.

My other problem is that my router is my only power tool that's ancient, a hand me down of unknown brand. It doesn't have a fence, so I figure I'm resigned to either replacing it, buying a jig of some sort or shuttering it in with wood clamped either side of the door.. which is probably not going to be ideal.

The last option is using my rail saw, but given that the cut is on the end, I think I'm going to struggle placing the rail securely.


Any thoughts on the best way to do this please?

fancy seal! any ref links to see in more detail?

 

[1animal1]

fancy seal! any ref links to see in more detail?

Sure, this is one of the better brands I found, the problem is finding a company who doesn't charge a fortune for p&p like these guys. I think I paid £26 all in from a firm in Inverness.

https://clearsoundacoustics.co.uk/p...giVlru0v-NG-xullZPtrlUhTEaEXaZXkaAudMEALw_wcB

 

[1animal1]

Simple solution until you replace the door could be a soft sausage type draught excluder ….long tube of fabric filled with old socks/tights/ or wadding pushed against the gap when you’re in your office. A lot of the noise will also be radiated by the door panel itself too, so another idea is a pull across heavy curtain on the inside of the room which would dampen this and if long enough act as the gap filler too.

It's a good idea but I want to fit this now I have it, it's all about the long term solution. I'll probably start chopping into the base of the door from the hinge side, on the off chance that it is hollow. I'll just source a solid door worst comes to the worst

 

[Housey210]

Hi, thanks for accepting me. I've got a few woodworking projects coming up and figured that it might be a good idea to join up for some expert advice.

My first project is to fit a door drop seal onto an internal door. The groove needs to be 14mm wide and 35mm deep. I'm struggling to find a long 14mm router bit so I'm currently considering a 12.7mm and doing a pass off each side of the pencil line.

My other problem is that my router is my only power tool that's ancient, a hand me down of unknown brand. It doesn't have a fence, so I figure I'm resigned to either replacing it, buying a jig of some sort or shuttering it in with wood clamped either side of the door.. which is probably not going to be ideal.

The last option is using my rail saw, but given that the cut is on the end, I think I'm going to struggle placing the rail securely.


Any thoughts on the best way to do this please?

have you considered sound deadening curtains?

 

[1animal1]

have you considered sound deadening curtains?

Not really, I'm hitting the cheapest obvious things first. It's solid walls all the way around, next obvious weak spot is the door

 

[Housey210]

hollow door? Be interesting to see a picky of the machined 35mm x 14mm groove when you have done it.

 

[1animal1]

hollow door? Be interesting to see a picky of the machined 35mm x 14mm groove when you have done it.

I'll post up good or bad

 

[Ozi]

I fixed a similar problem using rising hinges and draft excluding foam strips so the door sat down onto the carpet as it closed and the foam filled the other 3 edges. Needed a quick fix and lacked tools and skills for anything better.

 

[toolsntat]

Assuming it is a hollow core door drill a 12mm hole up in the bottom before you start to determine the thickness of bottom infill.
If it is not approximately 55mm remove the existing and glue in a suitable replacement.
You could machine the groove before inserting but would need a few 14mm spacers in the groove to stop it closing whilst gluing.
When in position cut out the two remaining end sections.
Cheers, Andy

 

[rs6mra]

Its been a year and I was how @1animal1 got on with the doors.

 

[Chris70]

If your router has holes in the plate then you could make a simple saddle by screwing on ply and a couple of pieces of batten. That should keep you groove where you want it.

If you've got some spare timber it would be worth knocking up a couple of door feet to make the job easier

Why the infernal music, if that's what you call it? No music and I might be able to hear what you're saying! A good idea nonetheless.

 

[Tris]

Why the infernal music, if that's what you call it? No music and I might be able to hear what you're saying! A good idea nonetheless.

It's not my video and have to admit to usually watching with subtitles on and sound off. I would agree he should really leave the soundtrack off in this case