cutting flooring around large complex shapes?

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If you can't lift the fittings, you will still have problems from the extra thickness of your new floor. Plus the risk of possible problems with the fiddlinesss of it all. If you do use solid wood, there can be the added fun that you cut a paper template (which fits perfectly) transfer it to the wood (and cut it exactly) only to find that you can't get the wood in place because it won't fold and there is no room to move it around in the available space!

Given that it's only a small room, the cost of good vinyl flooring would not be huge, and some of it is very good indeed.
 
Well slow steve, sorry to hear of the previous owners lash ups.
How about work out the flooring so you end up in the best place with the boards adjacent to the bog and basin, (sounds like a plumbers pub)! and see if that works out ok.
all the best with it and keep us posted please.
regards Rodders
 
"every time i need to do anything in the downstairs loo, i have to use tungsten carbide milling cutting in an sds drill to make anything happen "


I read this and thought that you probably need more roughage in your diet.........


:)
 
Don't cut it around the toilet or sink, otherwise when the next person moves in they will refer to you as 'mr bodge it'. Lift the toilet and cistern out. lay the new flooring and sit it all back on top. Job done.
 
cornishjoinery":3qutbxln said:
Don't cut it around the toilet or sink, otherwise when the next person moves in they will refer to you as 'mr bodge it'. Lift the toilet and cistern out. lay the new flooring and sit it all back on top. Job done.


+1
 
Billy Flitch":2zjif59w said:
Well Mr bugear I go back 50 years ago and a guy came into the gang where I learn t my trade and he introduced himself as a boatbuilder and the old guys I learn t my trade from never greeted him they just looked at the floor. When I asked them why they told me why, so I know and you dont

A friendly lot, you shipwrights :roll:
 
Billy Flitch":18txml54 said:
Well Mr bugear I go back 50 years ago and a guy came into the gang where I learn t my trade and he introduced himself as a boatbuilder and the old guys I learn t my trade from never greeted him they just looked at the floor. When I asked them why they told me why, so I know and you dont .Look at the 3 examples you have given.

Mr Alan sa Staley introduces him self as Shipwright, boat builder, spar maker, em yes both parts of a shipwrights trade.
Canal boat builders assoc 1990 a long and Honorable assoc.
The education link you give advertizes jobs for shipwrights not boat builders.

Boatbuilder is a term the public wants to hear but the guy who does the job is a Shipwright Simple as that.

I cannot for the life of me see why

1) this helps the original poster in any way
2) you felt the need to post this
3) this makes you feel any better about yourself

No hum, that's the internet for you
 
Having worked in the building trade for many years the golden rule is that flooring always goes UNDER everything - that's why it's called a floor. Seriously though, that's the key to quality flooring - whether it's a toilet, door frame, stair case or even a hearth - if you can lift them you under-cut them with a multicutter (or even an angle grinder - not recommended for toilet basins!) and get the flooring a few mill under it. Toilet, pedestal, bath panel should all be removed, floored under and refitted - shouldn't take more than an extra couple of hours and a day less than trying to cut around it. I shudder every time I see tiles or flooring cut around a toilet - it's not stonehenge - it's 2 screws and 10 minutes work.
 
glynster":1nz62w70 said:
Having worked in the building trade for many years the golden rule is that flooring always goes UNDER everything - that's why it's called a floor. Seriously though, that's the key to quality flooring - whether it's a toilet, door frame, stair case or even a hearth - if you can lift them you under-cut them with a multicutter (or even an angle grinder - not recommended for toilet basins!) and get the flooring a few mill under it. Toilet, pedestal, bath panel should all be removed, floored under and refitted - shouldn't take more than an extra couple of hours and a day less than trying to cut around it. I shudder every time I see tiles or flooring cut around a toilet - it's not stonehenge - it's 2 screws and 10 minutes work.

+1
 
Notwithstanding the advice to floor under items, if you absolutely have to cut the flooring round something, I find a quick option is to take some kitchen foil and scrunch it round the base, tightly, giving you a trace template to use on the new stuff.
 
I work as a plumber and bathroom installer and every time i see flooring cut around a pedestal or toilet my heart sinks.
I guarantee within a year either the pan connector will start to leak or someone will drop something through the basin or bowl.
All jobs that will more than likely mean re laying the floor.

I'd take them out even if it meant putting new back in.
 
glynster":3t9a0flj said:
I shudder every time I see tiles or flooring cut around a toilet - it's not stonehenge - it's 2 screws and 10 minutes work.

Not if the plonker who fitted the toilet squeezed half a tube of Stixall under it first!
 
glynster":163npgr3 said:
Toilet, pedestal, bath panel should all be removed, floored under and refitted

Won't that change the alignment of the outlet pipe for the toilet though ? My toilet is against an outsite wall and is connected immediately to short pipe that goes through the wall to soil pipe. No way is this flexible enough to withstand 10 mm or so increase in height. How is this solved ?
 
mseries":1vg7x9wf said:
glynster":1vg7x9wf said:
Toilet, pedestal, bath panel should all be removed, floored under and refitted

Won't that change the alignment of the outlet pipe for the toilet though ? My toilet is against an outsite wall and is connected immediately to short pipe that goes through the wall to soil pipe. No way is this flexible enough to withstand 10 mm or so increase in height. How is this solved ?

A flexible Pan Connector?
 
A loft of the straight connectors now say that have something like 10 degrees of movement anyway. might be enough?
 
At some point in every bathrooms life it needs a hero to come along.

Bathrooms are one of the few rooms that seem to attract serial bodging and end up with layer after layer of bodges until Mr Hero arrives.

Mr Hero says enough is enough. Out comes all the sanitary ware (at which point Mr Hero discovers and fixes all the bodged plumbing and waste connections).

The waste from the WC gets chopped out and re-located to make sure that there's room for 20 - 25mm under the pan. The floor gets re-laid properly, sanitary ware goes back or is replaced, walls are properly re-tiled and the job is finally a good-un.

Mrs Hero showers Mr Hero with all kinds of favours, both edible and exhausting(!!).

Mr Hero can be happy in the knowledge that he has saved the day. (and the bathroom).

Be Mr Hero.
 
I know Steve says he is slow but I think your advice may be a big late :D

By the way Billy my son and his colleagues are boat builders.. He builds nuclear submarines :D
 
lurker":1oktsg84 said:
I know Steve says he is slow but I think your advice may be a big late :D

By the way Billy my son and his colleagues are boat builders.. He builds nuclear submarines :D
I resurrected this thread because I specifically wanted to know about what happens when the floor is raised 10mm or so which is what was recommended to SlowSteve
 

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