Cutting a Donkey's Ear

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That old plane? Surprised you have the gall to show such a wreck in public... :wink:

I must admit to some reservations when I see beautifully made bench appliances like shooting boards. To my mind they should be viewed as a disposable item, discarded without a pang when they're past their best. Of course it may be that other people are better at chucking out their hard work than I am. :oops:

Cheers, Alf
 
I watched Charlesworth's DVD on this the other day where he states that only thin material should be shot. Something like 10mm maximum. If that's the case, how are you supposed to shoot picture frames or furniture parts?
 
in case theres anyone else reading this that is not edumacated to such things (like I was until very recently) I recently used bees wax on the side of my plane on my shooting board for the first time.

I'd seen people do it before here and there, but never appreciated just how much easier it becomes when its all waxed up.

Not too much mind, just a bit every time you use it.

I've started using it every time I use my planes now.
 
wizer":2z6l7iwe said:
I watched Charlesworth's DVD on this the other day where he states that only thin material should be shot. Something like 10mm maximum. If that's the case, how are you supposed to shoot picture frames or furniture parts?

You can certainly shoot stuff thicker than 10mm, Tom. Those pieces of wood I used for the Domino demonstration at Waka's bash were 20mm thick and I'd planed the ends of those on the shooting board the evening before.

As with everything, it depends on the wood, how sharp your plane is, etc., etc. I think it's best to try it out for yourself and see what works.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Hi.
Wizer I agree with Paul, you can shoot things bigger than 10 mm.
But it's harder.

My guess about the 10 mm that DC recommends is that when you shoot something bigger , only a slight problem in the setting of the blade, or if the piece if not square or whatever can lead to some problems.

For example, with the hypothesis that evrything is perfectly square (you shooting board, the piece you shoot, the fence, the ramp for the plane, the plane square itslef, ....)
If your blade in the plane is moved only 0.5° from the vertical, here are the distance that might result on your piece if you check with a square on the end (for a given thickness):
10 mm -> 0.087 mm
20 mm -> 0.17 mm
30 mm -> 0.26 mm
40 mm -> 0.35 mm

As you can see if you try to make a picture frame with a shooting board using 40 mm of thickness only a 0.5° of misalignment of the blade leads to a 0.35 gap. Wich is visible by human eye. As if 10 mm was used only 0.08, which with glue and a good finish could be acceptable.

This is the reason why (to my view) that often people do adjust their their shooting board as in the excellent model shown by Paul.
Also you can use some thin shavings or pieces of paper to correct all this. This also is something often raised in the forum, or in other places.

Finally, before shooting the real piece, you also often set up the plane, shooting board, on a test piece. Only once this is done you can go aheahd on the piece you' ll be using in your furniture.

This sounds complicated, but is quite easy, and fast when you do it.

Hope it helps (and also that I remembered my maths corerctly ... hard on the mornings :p )

Regards,
Graween.
 
Shooting gets easier the thinner the stuff.

I am practically certain that I did not say 10mm was the limit.

I would be interested to hear what the thickest dimension that people have shot is?

20mm works.

David Charlesworth
 
David C":2zi2vdlt said:
Shooting gets easier the thinner the stuff.

I am practically certain that I did not say 10mm was the limit.

I would be interested to hear what the thickest dimension that people have shot is?

20mm works.

David Charlesworth
David - I agree, that 20mm would be easily shot in...I might hesitate though if it were something overly hard, in which case 10mm would be much easier - Rob
 
Rob,

Thanks. Good point about hardness of timber.

Another thought is that once the stuff is over 18mm or even 12 mm thick, it should be perfectly simple to plane it freehand in a vice.

best wishes,
David
 
David - you just don't know what sort of chimpanzee you are dealing with!

I tried that, using a 60½ to get the rough angle and then a 62 to try to refine it. It wasn't bad, but it certainly wasn't good enough, leaving a gap of about 0.5mm on the corners when cramped up. That was in softwood.
 
David C":37ir6hri said:
Another thought is that once the stuff is over 18mm or even 12 mm thick, it should be perfectly simple to plane it freehand in a vice.

Hi David,

I think the length of the piece is also an issue. A piece 18mm thick and, say, 150mm long, would be straight forward to plane in the vice. However, if the piece was only, say, 50mm long there would be little surface for the plane to take a bearing, in which case the shooting board would, I feel, be a better option.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Hi guys.

Well I never shot something thicker than around 18-20 mm, because never had a project for that.

So how do you shoot thicker things when the length is short ? I feel it hard to plane even in a vise.

Also here in France I've seen often some massive mitre sliding shooting things like this http://www.gaignard-millon.com/photos/2506gm.jpg , don't really know the name of it in english (sorry for the link, no commercial interest here :oops: )

They were used for a long time.
I'm interested to know how you do.

Thanks.
 
David C":ndors0b1 said:
Paul,

Yes absolutely, the shooting board excells for very small and very thin pieces.

David
...such as the sides of drawer, which is where it comes into it's own - Rob
 
Had a 'fone call from Martin who asked me to make him one of these Pete style 'shoots (same as I made for Waka and as shown in the pics)
Anybody else want one?..it's as easy to make two or three as one.
PM me if interested - Rob
 
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