curved unit

[lugo35]

hi all, one of my work mate has got a great job to do. its a corner unit semi-circular fronted with 2 curved headed doors!!!! wish could post pic
looks great on the plan until you think of how do you make the top rails. also has a cock bead around the top rail of the frame(standing proud).
he does not have a computer so asking the question for him. any tips on where to start????

 

[Scrit]

With difficulty? :roll: The only way I can think of is to use a scratch stock and then control it by eye. Even so the chance of c*ck-up is pretty great and he may have to redo the beading several times. My biggest problem is trying to figure out how he's going to bend the beading in the first place - I've seen antiques which were blocked in short 3in sections, maybe because it's so awkward to achieve. Let's hope it's not something like ash.

Scrit

 

[Colin C]

He could cooper it, as in cutting smaller curves and gluing them together, like a brick wall.

I have made a round table ( the rails ) this way.

 

[lugo35]

will be made from tulip and painted luckily will try get a pic of it as and when

 

[Roger]

Laminating in appropriate thicknesses and Steam Bending as necessary for the Cock Beading to be attached later. A sketch would help, but I've done this before without 'too' much trouble - depending upon the curvature of course :wink:

 

[Scrit]

Lugo

If it's going to be painted why not just use two layers if bendy MDF. Seriously. Better ground for painting and faster to make-up across a form I'd say - by a long way. The cock bead is the really difficult bit, hence the suggestion to lay on and work with a scratch stock, although I'm beginning to wonder if a rebate couldn't be worked around the edge and then a more flexible round section material such as a well soaked (semi-boiled?) MDF bead be worked in and bent to fit? Possibly dry-out with heated sandbags to form to shape?

Scrit

 

[woodbloke]

I would make the cock bead from mdf if its going to be painted. As the shape is part of a circle it should be easy to work out the various radii from a full sized plan and make a radius jig to fit the appropriate router base, the bead can then be cut complete in a couple of settings of the jig. The edge profile could then easily be worked by hand and sanded to shape.
The rebate for the bead could again be cut using a rebated bearing cutter though some sort of additional support would have to be constructed to steady the base of the router as it went round the top of the doors, if I understand you correctly - Rob

 

[tim]

I would make the cock bead from mdf if its going to be painted

I would agree with this that several have suggested - the difficulty will be making it 'clean' enough to not look like MDF. I find that its really tricky to get rid of the rough look esp on curves even with MR MDF.

Cheers

Tim

 

[Chris Knight]

Depending on the radius, a cock bead can be made from say 1/8 inch thick wood and just bent around the curve. If the radius is too small to permit this, just cut it thinner and use two pieces.

If one only thickness is needed, the outer bullnose on the cockbead can be cut before attaching it to the rail, otherwise it will need to be put on afterwards using a suitably shaped scratchstock or simple scraper.

 

[jasonB]

My experience of MDF cock beading is that it is very easily damaged and bits get knocked off.

I would go with a rebateh as Scrit says then make a 1/4x3/8 moulding with the 1/4 side rounded over so you have a flat "D" section. Tulip wood will probably be OK as it bends quite well, a little hot water may help. Then just glue & clamp into the rebate. Mitre the ends when set and add the vertical beads.

Jason

 

[lugo35]

thanks for all your suggestions will try get pic sorted monday