Modernist
Established Member
Some of you may have seen my "deco-ish" door previously which was ready for glazing.
I sounded opinion of the forum and the agreed route for curved beading was to make from the solid. I took the opportunity (excuse) to add a bonnet guard and bearing guide set to my Hammer universal.
I had a set of chamfer cutters for my universal block but these were 20deg and the 15deg I needed for the glazing beads meant tilting the spindle back 5deg and I was not sure how this would work with bearing guides.
I made a template for the required radius less the amount the cutter overhung the bearing and positioned the roughly shaped blanks against a couple of stops using the centre line as a reference.
Lo and behold the result was excellent although I should have left more of a lead in on the template for safety.
Next job was to cut the outside curve with a rebate and I couldn't work out how to do this using a ring fence as it seemed impossible to get the cutter to overhang the fence. (Any thoughts here?). Consequently I set up the router on a trammel board and cut the outer curve to within 3mm of the full depth followed by the rebate with a large diameter cutter.
I was now able to trim off the beads easily on the bandsaw just following the outer curve and clean up with a bull nozed shoulder plane
I was now able to fit the curved beads to the frame mitreing the corners on the bandsaw to 45 deg and cleaning up on the shooting board using my LH iron 140 which is excellent for the purpose as the skew holds the moulding down tight to the board and the low angle is ideal for the end grain.
The picture shows the beads pinned in place with the pin holes filled and awaiting final cleaning up. All in all an apparently simple job which took me the best part of the day to complete!
I sounded opinion of the forum and the agreed route for curved beading was to make from the solid. I took the opportunity (excuse) to add a bonnet guard and bearing guide set to my Hammer universal.
I had a set of chamfer cutters for my universal block but these were 20deg and the 15deg I needed for the glazing beads meant tilting the spindle back 5deg and I was not sure how this would work with bearing guides.
I made a template for the required radius less the amount the cutter overhung the bearing and positioned the roughly shaped blanks against a couple of stops using the centre line as a reference.
Lo and behold the result was excellent although I should have left more of a lead in on the template for safety.
Next job was to cut the outside curve with a rebate and I couldn't work out how to do this using a ring fence as it seemed impossible to get the cutter to overhang the fence. (Any thoughts here?). Consequently I set up the router on a trammel board and cut the outer curve to within 3mm of the full depth followed by the rebate with a large diameter cutter.
I was now able to trim off the beads easily on the bandsaw just following the outer curve and clean up with a bull nozed shoulder plane
I was now able to fit the curved beads to the frame mitreing the corners on the bandsaw to 45 deg and cleaning up on the shooting board using my LH iron 140 which is excellent for the purpose as the skew holds the moulding down tight to the board and the low angle is ideal for the end grain.
The picture shows the beads pinned in place with the pin holes filled and awaiting final cleaning up. All in all an apparently simple job which took me the best part of the day to complete!
