curios

[Zanda]

As a newbie to the forum I am keen to learn. I have noticed the idea of using cellotape, as well as adhesive, from which comes my query, if you will all be so good as to humour me ?

Cellotape is a form of plastic ?(the tape itself) also as we all know it has an adhesive on it ? surely between the plastic and the adhesive, it is more likely to cause sticking / binding problems, (well I did say humour me lol) however small they may be. So where does this lubricating idea come from, is it a proven fact, or is it a widely accepted urban (scroll sawing) myth ?
Well like my daddy always said "you don't learn if you don't ask"
_________________

 

[Gill]

Hi Pete

It's certainly no urban myth .

When adhesive tapes are manufactured, they are coated both top and bottom. The bottom coat is the adhesive which makes them sticky and the top coat is a very fine lubricant. The tape needs this layer of lubrication otherwise you would not be able to unwind it. So if you overlay your work with tape, the blade will slice through the lubricant as it cuts, but the lubricant is so fine that it will not leave traces on your workpiece. It will, however, extend the longevity of your blade and reduce the risk of burning as you cut. It is easy to verify this - try cutting two identical projects from a hard wood and cover only one with tape. See which is the easiest to cut .

It is usually a good idea to choose low-tack masking tape rather than cellotape because removing it after cutting is much easier and it is less likely to damage your workpiece. Stronger adhesive tapes can pull splinters of wood away with it. Oh, and if you leave low-tack tape in position for too long or subject it to pressure it will become very high-tack (DAMHIKT ) .

 

[big soft moose]

Hi Pete


It is usually a good idea to choose low-tack masking tape rather than cellotape because removing it after cutting is much easier and it is less likely to damage your workpiece. Stronger adhesive tapes can pull splinters of wood away with it. .

in addition to gills points i would note that it is an exceptionally bad idea to use gaffer or duct tape as the saw blade pics up strands of adhevive on each stroke which very quickly foul the blade and overcome any lubricant effect - DAMHIKT

 

[Zanda]

my thanks to Gill n BSM, well there ya go then, myth proven, and I WILL be using cellotape in future.

 

[Gill]

Don't use cellotape - it's too sticky. Low-tack masking tape (available from most DIY "sheds") is much better.

 

[Zanda]

Thank you Gill

 

[gasmansteve]

Don't use cellotape - it's too sticky. Low-tack masking tape (available from most DIY "sheds") is much better.

Can you get this in `see through` versions at all otherwise a bit hard cutting to a line :wink: ?
Ta
Steve

 

[big soft moose]

Don't use cellotape - it's too sticky. Low-tack masking tape (available from most DIY "sheds") is much better.

Can you get this in `see through` versions at all otherwise a bit hard cutting to a line :wink: ?
Ta
Steve

presumably you draw the line on top of the masking tape

 

[Gill]

Doh!

So that's what I've been doing wrong all these years!

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[gasmansteve]

Don't use cellotape - it's too sticky. Low-tack masking tape (available from most DIY "sheds") is much better.

Can you get this in `see through` versions at all otherwise a bit hard cutting to a line :wink: ?
Ta
Steve

presumably you draw the line on top of the masking tape

This is getting a bit complicated now If I`m trying to cut out an accurately plotted/printed gear wheel how would I then draw by hand ontop of the masking tape the same outline underneath it??. Obviously using cellotape or similar thats not a problem :? There apears to be not much tolerance between a wheel that will mesh ok with another depending on how accurate the wheels are cut out.

Steve

Steve

 

[Gill]

Hi Steve

Forgive me - your 'wink' icon made me think you were being flippant. I didn't realise you were being serious.

What you need to do is lay the masking tape on your workpiece, then glue your pattern on top of the masking tape. I know, I know... the lubricant on top of the masking tape should prevent the pattern from sticking. Yet it doesn't! I wish I could explain why. The strange thing is, you still get the benefit of the lubrication.

:duno:

 

[hawkinob]

Hi,
I use clear packageing tape, about 50mm (2ins.) wide but find it better, for me, to stick the pattern on first then overlay with the clear tape. To remove I coat with turps, leave for a few minutes and generally can get under the paper pattern and peel off both in one go. If I'm sloppy with the tape I do sometimes get sawdust between the tape and the pattern which is a pain but I try to be careful and lay the tape on with no creases. I have found with fine fretwork , and with some types of wood, that with the tape stuck to the wood first that I've damaged the cuts when trying to remove the tape, turps on the paper seems easier and safer.
We have a timber - sheoak - which has a beautiful grain and pattern but burns when cutting unless you use the tape. Never cut plastic but have been told that clear tape reduces the temperature of the cutting so that the plastic doesn't "reglue" itself after you've cut.
Hope it helps.
Bob H.

 

[gasmansteve]

What you need to do is lay the masking tape on your workpiece, then glue your pattern on top of the masking tape.
:duno:

Got it now Gil sorry for sounding a dumb ar$e l :lol:
Regards
Steve

 

[Zanda]

What you need to do is lay the masking tape on your workpiece, then glue your pattern on top of the masking tape.
:duno:

Got it now Gil sorry for sounding a dumb ar$e l :lol:
Regards
Steve

Hi Again, I have just completed my first faltering two layered stack cut, and I wrapped the two layers in masking tape ! the underlying pattern was plain to see, with no difficulty working out where to spin the work to follow the pattern lines etc, so I'm gonna wrap all my work that way. and my work didnt turn out too badly, I'm getting there. lol

 

[Mike M]

Gill is correct that there is a layer on top and bottom. The layer on top is a chemical called silicon, what releases friction.
This, I was told by a 3 M company tape sales man.
Mike