Cupped table top, what to do

[zak99]

Hi we have this old kitchen table we like but some of the top has cupped, what could I do please?. We like the tops patina but guess we might lose that in a repairs

Thank you

 

[rogxwhit]

Ooh - elm - nice. Learn to live with it as it is and appreciate the cup as part of its character - and keep the patina.

Otherwise, you'd have to rip it into about four pieces and either glue them up or just lay them side by side. You'd lose 15 mm or whatever in the saw-kerfs ....

 

[zak99]

Ah Elm is it thank you.

What about wetting or steaming the top and clamping flat, could that improve things?

 

[rogxwhit]

Wouldn't think so. I think that the wood has done what it needed to do as it dried, and that's not sensibly reversible. You could rip it once down the middle to produce two boards that were more moderately cupped ...

I blame central heating ...

 

[recipio]

Personally I'd just leave them as they are. You could however flip the boards over to see if you have an acceptable surface. If so you could then run some saw kerfs on the concave side and glue in some matching slips of wood. Clamp down the boards on a flat surface and you will have a more or less flat surface. It depends on how much you value the patina.

 

[zak99]

What would be my chances of separating the existing glued joints please?

 

[niall Y]

Interesting little glue join on the lifted part. I'm guessing it's Edwardian. If it is anything like the one I have - which has a sycamore top - It might well be held down with 'buttons. held in little grooves around the inside of the frame,

As far as I can tell from the photos, it looks like the top has separated in two. If it hasn't fully separated, you could steam it apart, prior to gluing the two parts back together. If you dampen the top, you will probably find that you can clamp it fairly flat onto the frame. Failing that you can run several grooves underneath along the length of the table, but stopping shy of the frame - a detail you find on modern hardwood flooring.

The cupping has probably been allowed to happen because the top hasn't been properly held down.. Either that, or the fixings have failed at the end of the table. You can use angled steel plates, that have slots in them for the screws, to hold the top down and allow for movement. This will also be a lot less faff than using 'buttons'

 

[thetyreman]

you could try dampening the other side to see if it cups the other way, if not try cleats under it to help bend it back into straightness.

 

[zak99]

Yes it’s an interesting board joint. Angle metal brackets underneath except on drawer side. The cup is bigger than I realised all over

 

[recipio]

Looks like an Edwardian kitchen table. It will have been glued with an animal glue so the joints should respond to steaming. It's going to be hard to clean up that machined joint unless you can find a router cutter that matches. That still leaves you with the cupping problem. Or sell it to Drew Pritchard for megabucks.

 

[Jacob]

It's a wreck.
It looks a bit industrial - not a domestic table?
I'd saw it apart down the joints and plane face and two square edges. Then either rejoin with plain butted glue joint and clean up with belt and RO sander. Have to add a narrow bit to make up for the loss.
If no good make a new top. Attach with buttons, 3 or 4 each long side.
The bottom looks a wreck too. I'd paint it.

 

[zak99]

It's a wreck.
It looks a bit industrial - not a domestic table?
I'd saw it apart down the joints and plane face and two square edges. Then either rejoin with plain butted glue joint and clean up with belt and RO sander. Have to add a narrow bit to make up for the loss.
If no good make a new top. Attach with buttons, 3 or 4 each long side.
The bottom looks a wreck too. I'd paint it.

We like industrial and patina. I will paint the bottom though if the top comes out reasonable but leave the drawers. Each to their own Jacob

 

[thetyreman]

the way the top is attached is not typical from the time period, it's likely been messed around with and would have had turnbuttons which prevent the top from warping this much, this was often saved though for higher end tables but it wouldn't be too hard to make some and re-attach it that way.

 

[COWS]

I'd complete refurb it if it were mine. Theres enough overhang to not worry too much about kerf loss. Looks like its made up of 7 pieces.It will polish up nicely. And as Jacob says, I'd probably paint the base. Its not really to my taste so wouldn't be something I'd keep. It does suit the pew's though, they are cool.

 

[zak99]

I'd complete refurb it if it were mine. Theres enough overhang to not worry too much about kerf loss. Looks like its made up of 7 pieces.It will polish up nicely. And as Jacob says, I'd probably paint the base. Its not really to my taste so wouldn't be something I'd keep. It does suit the pew's though, they are cool.

Thanks I’ve just salvaged and cut down those from this soggy mess

 

[HOJ]

May not be everyone's taste but at these prices: Elm table I would be considering a careful restoration

 

[zak99]

If it helps date it a couple more pics including one under the top.

Drew would probably offer me 10 quid if I’m lucky

 

[Jacob]

If it helps date it a couple more pics including one under the top.

Drew would probably offer me 10 quid if I’m lucky

Yep - industrial. Machine DTs, machined edge joint, mismatching boards etc . Perhaps office furniture. WD?

 

[zak99]

Yep - industrial. Machine DTs, machined edge joint, mismatching boards etc . Perhaps office furniture.

DT’s ?

 

[zak99]

Ah sorry Dovetails, I was thinking of Drink Tremors