Critique

[Bodrighy]

Haven't had one for a while so thought I'd post this.

Yew, 4" tall 1/16" thick at rim gradually getting thicker to the bottom. Stem is 1/4". (yes Iworked out how to use a ruler :lol: ) Finished with sealer and friction polish after sanding (carefully) to 2000.

I watched a video on Youtube of a guy doing a goblet and he did it backwards to the way I have been doing them. He did the inside shape first and then the outside. Found it much easier. I did the stem with an old, fairly flat carbon spindle gouge. Really narrow and ideal for taking very small shavings off as I don't have a steady so have to go careful.



Comments and criticism welcome as always

Pete

 

[stevebuk]

that is beautiful pete, i really must pluck up the courage t have a go at one, still enjoying my pens at the moment though.

 

[Dean]

Very nice turning Pete, the proportions look well balanced and the finish looks great, the point where the stem meets the base could be a little crisper or the stem could continue and flow into the base.

 

[CHJ]

Not the easiest wood to tackle the subject with Pete and I think you did well to complete the stem without splits/cracks appearing.

To my eyes something does not gel quite right with the base, looks too utilitarian? whatever that means, I feel it could do with being a little larger diameter with a progressive thinning towards the edge and a gentle blend to the stem rather than the 'steps'

Can't quite see the detail of the collar at the top of the stem.

Don't know if it is so obvious 'in the flesh' as it were but the inner thickening of the bowl seems to take place in a distinct curve from the top edge, a straight line taper may give the subject an apparent thinner form.

Da**n that all sounds negative but they are the thoughts that came to mind.

Won't be tackling similar in the near future, can't see a piece of Yew being kind enough to me to do any better myself

 

[PowerTool]

Again,a beautifully coloured piece of timber.To me,the shape and balance of the piece looks nice,and the gloss finish works well;only possible thing is on the intersection of the base and stem,a small bead may have enhanced it,rather than just the shoulder (or as previously mentioned,no junction point and just a smooth curve)

Andrew

 

[Paul.J]

Looks good Pete
I think you have got the base just about the right size on this goblet,but i think i would have done away with the bead at the base and let it flow into a nice curve,and just kept the bead at the top.
Finish looks lovely,and would have liked to have had a piccy of it face on to see the shape properly :roll:

 

[NickWelford]

Nice, Pete - amazing how much you have improved since the beginning. I echo the coments about the base - I would have put a smooth transition from vertical to horizontal.

I've always cut the inside of the bowl before the outside - usually drill a hole to the depth I want then hollow outwards.

 

[Mark Hancock]

Pete

A nice looking piece. It's a bit hard to comment on the form because of the angle the photos were taken at and others have picked up on most points.

The first thing I notice was the 'whiteness' of the knot on the inside of the goblet and again in the check on the base. I'm not sure if this is the case but it's common to get this when applying wax to areas where there is a break in the surface. The wax finds the voids and fulls them. You can avoid this if using a paste wax by applying it with cloth and then go over these voids with a Liberon 'shaving' brush in the end of a drill to take out the excess wax. It's a method I use when waxing burrs after applying the wax with a shoe brush. It prevents the deposits of wax building up in the voids. Picked this technique up from Jules Tattersall. I don't know if this will work with friction polish of which I'm not a fan - the idea of creating friction on the wood to generate heat to melt the wax when wood isn't that fond of heat?

 

[TEP]

Hi Pete, I can only echo all the above comments, and now you seem to have goblet turning 'sussed' I think you now need to try to put some design/shape into the stem. Just to set the whole piece off.

 

[Bodrighy]

Thanks to all of you for the comments, positive and negative. The top of the stem has a sharp bead if that makes sense. The bottom 'ledge' was a mistake looking at it with fresh eyes. Normally I use wax as Mark has suggested but fior some reason went for friction polish with this one.
Rightly or wrongly I have been tapering the thickness whenever I try and get the edge thin as it seems to be too delicate when thin all the way down. My aim is to give a look of delicacy but still have some strength. Not really interested in making things thin for the sake of it personally. Same thing with the stem. Just how thin is good? Any thinner and this one would have been literally top heavy.

Not quite sure what you mean by 'shape and design in the stem' unoless you mean like your avatar. I'm still workng on that but with little success.

Thanks again everyone, plenty of pointers. I'll look out for the 'shaving brush Mark as I often have to pick wax out of the cracks etc in my more 'rustic' pieces. I use a shoe brush to buff but had'n't thought of your idea

Pete

 

[CHJ]

Rightly or wrongly I have been tapering the thickness whenever I try and get the edge thin as it seems to be too delicate when thin all the way down.

My particular comment Pete was with reference to the apparent visible curve on the inner lip, like a sanding blend, as opposed to any reference about thickening for strength.

Try using a flat piece of wood or similar as backing to any sanding media to produce a flat line taper to an edge instead of a curve, but as per my previous comments it may not be obvious in the item.

 

[TEP]

Not quite sure what you mean by 'shape and design in the stem' unoless you mean like your avatar. I'm still workng on that but with little success.

Did not mean like my avatar, just meant something other than a straight stem. Say something like a tulip shape, or some coves and bulbs. Will try and put a couple of pics. up later on to show what I mean.

 

[Mark Hancock]

Pete

It's the small round brush on this page at the bottom
http://www.chestnutproducts.co.uk/results.php?cat=Prep/Application
The picture link is missing....perhaps Terry will see this and sort it out.

Put a screw into the handle of the brush and then cut the screw head off. Now you can mount the brush in a hand drill and brush out any excess wax caught in any void. This is a great technique on burr wood. Prior to this I would only oil burrs because of the wax problem.

 

[Terry Smart]

Hi Guys

The website is undergoing some subtle, behind the scenes changes at the moment, one of the results being that I can't do much on it! Only because I haven't mastered it yet, it'll come.

Meanwhile, the brush referred is this one:

We have other brushes available as well that would do this job which are supplied with the arbour already in place, although for an occassional user Mark's idea sounds very good.

 

[Bodrighy]

Thanks Mark & Terry, I need more wax as well so an order will be on it's way

Pete

 

[DaveL]

Meanwhile, the brush referred is this one:

Terry,

Is that a new one?
I don't remember seeing it on your stand, but it looks just the job for some of the things I have been working on.