OPJ
Established Member
While everyone else appears to be in the 'Shooting Board Spirit' I thought I'd share a couple of my own, completed very recently. :wink:
First up is my standard 90º shooting board. I made it from two layers of 6mm MDF with a central core of 12mm and also decided to lip the 'shooting edge' in ash for greater resistance. I would like to have covered the runway in a thin plastic laminate but the stuff I have is about 1.5mm thick and, with that, the iron on my Stanley no. 4 1/2 would begin cutting above the top surface.
I picked up a very good tip from someone on these forums - I think it might have been Rob? - to use roundhead screws when securing the stop/fence as countersunks can shift things as the head bites down. I also elongated the outermost hole to allow for minor adjustments. Maybe I'll glue it on, one day, when I'm feeling very confident...
I have since replaced the fence with one that's much taller - I made this board with a 19mm thick stop and then realised I'll be wanting to plane some 22mm thick stuff fairly shortly! :roll:
Next up is my board for shooting 'long' mitres. Identical setup with the fences as in the one above except, obviously, these are set at 45º. :wink: It's 600mm long but I do think I could perhaps have made it a little longer still. If I have to work with anything wider than 3" say, I think I may struggle to keep it still. But, it works well enough for now.
I also have a Donkey's Ear Shooting Board somewhere but I may try and reverse it so that the timber slopes down towards the plane.
Now, all I need is a lovely low angle jack plane!! :wink:
First up is my standard 90º shooting board. I made it from two layers of 6mm MDF with a central core of 12mm and also decided to lip the 'shooting edge' in ash for greater resistance. I would like to have covered the runway in a thin plastic laminate but the stuff I have is about 1.5mm thick and, with that, the iron on my Stanley no. 4 1/2 would begin cutting above the top surface.
I picked up a very good tip from someone on these forums - I think it might have been Rob? - to use roundhead screws when securing the stop/fence as countersunks can shift things as the head bites down. I also elongated the outermost hole to allow for minor adjustments. Maybe I'll glue it on, one day, when I'm feeling very confident...
I have since replaced the fence with one that's much taller - I made this board with a 19mm thick stop and then realised I'll be wanting to plane some 22mm thick stuff fairly shortly! :roll:
Next up is my board for shooting 'long' mitres. Identical setup with the fences as in the one above except, obviously, these are set at 45º. :wink: It's 600mm long but I do think I could perhaps have made it a little longer still. If I have to work with anything wider than 3" say, I think I may struggle to keep it still. But, it works well enough for now.
I also have a Donkey's Ear Shooting Board somewhere but I may try and reverse it so that the timber slopes down towards the plane.
Now, all I need is a lovely low angle jack plane!! :wink: