Couple of panelled doors

[mailee]

I am awaiting the arrival of the veneered Oak sheets so in the meantime I am busying myself with a couple of raised panel doors for a cupboard.
I got the frames cut to length and all the mortices and tennons but was having trouble with the mitres. After asking on here about the technique I finally got them pretty good:

I found the centre rail was the hardest to accomplish but got there in the end:

I ended up tonight with one frame complete and ready for the panel:

It has been a while since I made a large door like this without using the Rail and stile cutters in my table. This job was just a bit too big for those as they are only for small cabinet doors. Should get a little more done tomorrow, although I am going to see someone about my website that is in progress. Will keep you posted. :wink:

 

[Waka]

Good stuff Mailee, glad it worked out OK

 

[neilyweely]

Mailee

If you didn't use a router table/bit to do the rail and stile, how did you do it? I am fairly sure I would have tried using the rail and stile cutter for a door that size. But I wouldn't want to try any other way, for fear of messing it up.

I ask because the middle section profile looks the same as it would if I routered it ( I think )?

Thanks

Neil

 

[mailee]

Well Neil, it was done with a roundover cutter in my router hand held. I then ran the lengths through the table saw for the slot for the panel and then put the mortice and tennons in. Of course it did mean that I then had to cut back the section where the rail would meet hence the careful chiselling. I do have a set of cutters that would have been deep enough for the timber but the slot isn't that deep and in my opinion it would have made for a weak joint. :wink:

 

[mailee]

I got on well in the workshop today. After glueing up the boards for the panels I raised them on the router table. Finally all of the parts were ready for a dry fit.

Of course nothing goes together easy and with a little bit of persuasion and judicios use of the rubber mallet this was the outcome.

I have now glued everything up and it is in clamps at the moment. I must remember to buy some more clamps when I have the time and money too. :roll:

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Very very nice =D>

Swmbo wants new paneled doors throughout the house 12 in total
:shock: I think I'll be going to B&Q though cos I've never made a door anyway. :lol:

 

[mailee]

Thanks guys. I got them out of glue up and finally got them finished. Turned out quite nice even if I say so myself.

I would have thought given your talents your Lordship you would have had a go at making them?

 

[Mattty]

Cracking job Mailee, one minor comment though- The top rail looks a little heavy, is it the same width as the bottom and middle rail? I would normally make the top rail the same width as the stiles.

 

[Rich]

Nice one Mailee, a pleasure to see, no wonder there's never enough hours in the day :lol:

Rich.

 

[mailee]

Mattty, I have left the top rail over size so it can be trimmed down to the correct height. I am not sure just how the other doors look so have left it to the customer to trim them to height. I may even end up having to fit them yet although he just asked for them to be made so far. :wink: I do have another door to make for him so may end up doing the lot.
Well you sure are correct there Rich, I am so busy there never seems to be enough hours to do everything I want. Maybe once I am self employed I might get the odd weekend off once in a while........but I won't hold my breath. :roll: :lol:

 

[neilyweely]

Mailee
I am gonna finish the bedroom (No.2) and my eldest daughters room, then attack the kitchen. I have a beautiful collection of antique (and expensive) handles. Both door and cupboard door size. However, even though I have been saving these for years for my 'next house' now that I have bought it it seems they will not be suitable. Not 'in-keeping' with the rest of the decor. Plus the house is a 1930's semi, not the same as the cottage!! All of which, boiled down, means that I am going to have to revise my plans for rail and stile doors on wardrobes/kitchen units for something more modern.
Your method of cutting the R+S appeals to me (because I think I could manage it!!) so I may, nearer the time, ask to pick your brains about it. Although it seems straight forward I'm sure I will get confused somewhere. The more I think about it the more I like it. Its so simple it's brilliant!!

The doors have turned out great, I would love to see some photo's of them in situ. Perhaps some close ups of the backs, and fronts around the joints?

Hope I am not asking too much. Thanks a lot Mailee.

Neil

 

[mailee]

No problem Neil. I have the doors here until Tuesday so I will go down to the shop and take some pics for you tomorrow. As for the doors in situ I will see what I can do once they are hung. Please feel free to ask any questions you like when the time comes mate, I am always happy to help if I can. I did find it quite easy making the parts once I got my head around how to do it without the router table. Once I got the hang of cutting the mitres again it was plain sailing. :wink:

 

[joiner_sim]

The doors look good, however.... as this is my specialisation..... I must say the mouldings would have been better scribed over - as previously said, but I do understand limitations in different shops, I would have also done the tennons as thru, wedged tennons.

 

[DeanN]

Question - What benefit would a through (wedged) tenon have in this project ?

 

[joiner_sim]

Question - What benefit would a through (wedged) tenon have in this project ?

On any door I make it's always thru wedge tennons. The tennon can never come loose being wedged. I accidentally once clamped up a door, and wedged it, without glue on the joints. The door is still solid today.

 

[mailee]

Hi Sim, I do agree with your idea about the through wedged tennons..but I just don't like to see them on an internal door I am afraid. My personal choice is for the hidden tennons on these type of doors although if it was a gate or a rustic style door then I would consider it. As for coming loose I wouldn't have thought that was much of a problem with the quality of glues we have at our disposal today. JMHO :wink:

 

[joiner_sim]

Oh, I know 100% the reason you didn't use thru wedge tennon's was for cosmetic reasons! It does look much nicer, I completley agree with that, but I always think they should be on a door. The glue these days is brilliant and probably does last forever! The only time I've used a stub mortice joint on doors, was when we hadall the timber machined out for us by another company and delivered to us, to fiux together as a contracted out job, as they had too much work. If anyone's interested, the doors in question can be found at Marks & Spencer's Sutton Coldfield! :lol:

I hate to critise, especially when I can see loads of hard work has been put into it all, thats the main reason I never replied to this thread. The joints you ave used will not come apart I just wouldn't make a door this way myself.

I suppose thats what this sites all about though, different ways of working and everything. A wedged tennon, is solid within 5minutes and can be worked on straight away meaning the order gets done faster. A stub mortice needs to be left 24 hours meaning that no work can be done on that job.

 

[neilyweely]

Personally I think the wedged tenon looks quite good in some instances, however this is surely a case of 'whatever flicks your switch'.

Sim is quite right, of course, about the instant fix quality to the WT, although if you had made a door to match existing style, or even just preferred NOT to see the wedge, there are glues nowawdays that not only have the ability to last, but do not take the full 24hr curing time (have a pot of it in the WS).

I would be happy to have those doors on my wardrobes, but pretty pleased to have 'em in m+S too!!

Cheers guys

Neil

Am thinking about putting a couple of dowels thru some M+T's on a 4poster bed atm. whaddya reckon about making them from the same elm?

 

[mailee]

Yes I do admit that given the right circumstances the through tennon is a nice choice. If I were making a door with the wedges in contrasting woods then it would be an ideal situation for it making a feature of the door. I do agree too that it is an instant 'fix' so the door can be worked on. As has been stated there is no hard and fast rule about this and it is personal choice. As it was in my case all of the other doors had the tennons hidden so I chose this method. Always nice to hear other comments on ways of doing things Sim. Please do post in the future even if it is with negative comments I don't mind criticism and after all we never stop learning, the process just slows down a bit at my age. :lol: