Countersinks

[head clansman]

Hi



I really cant say in all my years in the trade that i have ever used a good quality counter sink in wood or come to think of it in metal either , some were well you know passably ok ish, they did a reasonable job, but nothing really that stood out above other make , all seem to clog up and go blunt very easily ,they all seem to be on a general level of tat , so come on then guys what do all use and why ? pics if possible please .hc

 

[Mr Ed]

I find this type is better than most;

Available from Axminster, other tool stores are available...

Ed

 

[head clansman]

HI

Ed nice start , do they come in variouse sizes , can they be used on metal as well .hc

 

[DaveL]

I have a cheap set of those, came in a small wooden box, give very smooth counter sinks.
Not tried them on metal as I am not sure how hard they are, but good quality ones should work on metal OK.

 

[oddsocks]

I agree with Ed - I get those from Axminster and they are available in different sizes. They give a very smooth cut.

Dave

 

[Shrubby]

G J Hall for me too
They call that snail type countersink a 'deburring cutter'.The 3 flute are available in more sizes.
I use the Hexibit versions as these fit all 1/4" hex systems.
Excellent tools without a boutique price tag !
Matt

 

[Boz62]

Yep, the "snail" countersink solved decades of naff results with normal ones, a major step forward for me . I got the Axminster hex drive one as well. Great in a battery drill, take it slow and just seems to work. Good in softwood, hardwood, aluminium, brass, but haven't tried it on steel yet.

Boz

 

[jasonB]

I use a Ruko 3 flute for metal which also works well in wood but have the trend snappy deburing type for use in the cordless when I'm on site.

3 flutes can be had upto 32mm head dia and the de-buring type to a masive 64mm.

Jason

 

[woodbloke]

I use a couple of these for metal and roughish jobs in wood. The snail type countersinks that Ed refers to are very good and I intend to put a couple on my Christmas list as well as a LN countersink - Rob

 

[head clansman]

hi

hmm interesting most seem to be in agreement with each other and purchased gj hall with the snail head,which seems to have replaced decades of the tatty cheep one's, but no one can say for sure wether it's any good with metal as well, as yet, lets see if someone can say differently
.hc :wink:

 

[bugbear]

hi

hmm interesting most seem to be in agreement with each other and purchased gj hall with the snail head,which seems to have replaced decades of the tatty cheep one's, but no one can say for sure wether it's any good with metal as well, as yet, lets see if someone can say differently
.hc :wink:

Did you not read boz's post?

BugBear

 

[Boz62]

Right, I've just plucked up courage and tried it on some steel - a generic tapped bracket, normal sort of mild steel probably. It hasn't marked the cutting edge on the countersink (phew), but has left some shiny witness marks on the smooth outer surface. It did cut, leaving a beveled edge. But... I think I'll stick with a rose countersink for steel, especially anything harder than mild steel. The roses are more aggressive. I think the snail would do steel if really needed but I'll leave it. As I have both I'll stick to the rose type for steels and use the snail on wood/brass/ally.

Boz

 

[head clansman]

hi bug bear

yes i did read boz post, hence from his last last sentence, why i ask my question.

Boz thank you for doing that , thats the kinda info i'm was asking for, so you don't recommend using halls on metal at all unless theres no alternative, ok, roses countersink expensive ? differing sizes ? hc

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I have a set of these from Lee Valley ..

They are excellent!

In addition, I use them in both braces and egg beater drills (a permanent set up). The brace is best as it allows good vertical orientation, and the countersink can be turned to the precise depth wanted. I find a power drill is easy to go off-centre and out-of-vertical.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[wizer]

:idea: :idea: :idea:

Thanks chaps. I've been after a decent one for a while as all mine are toilet. I nearly bought the Colt one, which looks good but i'd have to remortgage my daughter again :roll:

 

[Boz62]

No hc, it's just steels I don't recommend snail types on. I am happy to use snail types on brass or aluminium or any wood. I normally use a 5 tooth rose type on steels, had them for years so don't know the make etc.

Boz

 

[bugbear]

hi bug bear

yes i did read boz post, hence from his last last sentence, why i ask my question.

Sorry - I obviously misundertood. You asked after "metals" and Boz had already mentioned brass and aluminium which are (as I understand matters) "metals" ;-)

BugBear

 

[head clansman]

hi tom

see you think along the same line as me , just dont seem to be one that will do all think to all materials , just total tat ,i will try the halls snail on wood see if there any good , the problem start when you want to start countersinking metals, after using on metal there buggerd on wood.hc

 

[Harbo]

I tend to use the snail types on wood - you get a smoother cut and the rose types on metals.
The snail types always seemed too delicate to me to try on metal?

I bought some HSS Rose types from Tracy Tools at the Midlands M E Exhibition at the weekend - they were £3 each.

Rod

 

[head clansman]

hi harbo

seem like reasonable price .hc