Corro Dip - If you were wondering.....

[SammyQ]

Mike? Apologies, my bad; you are absolutely right about patents. As an ex professional photographer (previous life) and being aware of copyright issues there, I should have reined in my enthusiasm ( = financial desperation). PM sent. Sam

 

[SammyQ]

Jimi? Good thought...but...may I remind you that 'certain elements' of Norn Iron ("Northern Ireland") society played with extravangant chemistry for 30-odd years and a new venture of us woodies making 'homebrew' might draw unwanted attention from the rozzers?

Having said that, I trained under a chemist who used to make his own aftershave and eau de toilette...in his later years, it was more like eeewwww! de toilet...

Sam

 

[thick_mike]

Jimi? Good thought...but...may I remind you that 'certain elements' of Norn Iron ("Northern Ireland") society played with extravangant chemistry for 30-odd years and a new venture of us woodies making 'homebrew' might draw unwanted attention from the rozzers?

Having said that, I trained under a chemist who used to make his own aftershave and eau de toilette...in his later years, it was more like eeewwww! de toilet...

Sam

I make my own hair conditioner...50 p a litre!

Because I'm worth it.

 

[mickthetree]

From corro dip to conditioner. Don't get them mixed up now guys!! ;-)

 

[thick_mike]

From corro dip to conditioner. Don't get them mixed up now guys!! ;-)

I need to be careful, being a ginger.

 

[jimi43]

From corro dip to conditioner. Don't get them mixed up now guys!! ;-)

And if you are using it on planes...take care it's only on the bed and shoulders..... :mrgreen:

Ok..ok..coat on...out the door...down the path...miles away by now!

Jim

 

[thick_mike]

Been playing today, but been a bit lax in taking before/after pics. Things I have noticed...

1) whatever you dip becomes warm (mix could do with diluting?)
2) copper is removed from the brass brush if you rub it wet. Copper is then deposited on the tool giving it a slightly yellow tinge.
3) flash rusting doesn't seem to be a problem as it can be with electrolysis.
4) it really emphasises any laminations in plane irons
5) it makes your microwave smell like vinegar
6) my skin hasn't fallen off
7) i tried a couple of rusty files to see what happens. Both of the ones I have tried so far are really sharp. I guess they were sharp before rusting, but still, this was surprising.

I thought it was time for a challenge:

And the winner is....chemistry!

 

[mickthetree]

Been playing today, but been a bit lax in taking before/after pics. Things I have noticed...

1) whatever you dip becomes warm

5) it makes your microwave smell like vinegar

1 & 5 linked perhaps :wink:

I've got a box full of files that are a tad rusty. When did you say you were going to market with this product?

tut tut Jimi :roll:

 

[9fingers]

There was (is?) a chemical process for regenerating engineers files.
Those older readers who might remember Ken Whiston of "seen my Cat?" fame would recall seeing an assortment of these files offered for sale. I did have some once and they certainly seemed quite sharp and much more suited to my pocket.

Bob

From cat 124 September 1989
item 5008W
Surplus Workshop Assortment of Regenerated Files. all sorts 6" to 12", 10 for £8.78

 

[SammyQ]

Bob? Is that file restoration not simply electrolysis of the files?

I've done a bit of quick research and my indications are that Corrodip may use a chelating agent that is NOT EDTA, but 'an organic/sulphur' compound....so tramping on patent toes seems to have receded as an issue.

I'm a scientist and have 3 chemists working alongside me. I'm going to go away and mull this all over to see if I can add 2d (pre-decimal currency!) to back up Mick's elegant start to all this. It sure as Hades is nice to find an affordable way to maintain expensive and utterly necessary tooling in an aopropriate state.

Sam

 

[dickm]

There was (is?) a chemical process for regenerating engineers files.
Those older readers who might remember Ken Whiston of "seen my Cat?" fame would recall seeing an assortment of these files offered for sale. I did have some once and they certainly seemed quite sharp and much more suited to my pocket.
From cat 124 September 1989
item 5008W
Surplus Workshop Assortment of Regenerated Files. all sorts 6" to 12", 10 for £8.78

Oh heck, that takes me back. But to the late 1960s.

Don't anglers use "chemically sharpened" hooks? Presumably the same process.

 

[Tony Spear]

Don't anglers use "chemically sharpened" hooks? Presumably the same process.

It's always puzzled me how they do that! :?

BTW. reatents. If Mick thinks he may have a marketable product, the obvious answer in American marketing jargon is "run it up the flagpole and see if anybody salutes!

i.e. Put it on the market and you'll soon find out if anybody thinks their Patent is being infringed! Plus anybody that feels that way would have to reveal their own composition if it ever went to Court! That of course, provided there aren't any restrictions on the various ingredients, could lead to hundreds of people making their own! :mrgreen:

 

[DTR]

7) i tried a couple of rusty files to see what happens. Both of the ones I have tried so far are really sharp. I guess they were sharp before rusting, but still, this was surprising.

I read somewhere that one way to sharpen a file is to leave it outside to rust for a short while. When the rust is removed what is left is the original (sharp) profile. Or something to that effect. I must try and find where I read it...

edit: found it. Taken from lathes.co.uk:

Restoring files - blunt files can often be resharpened by allowing them to rust in the garden for a few weeks. Due to the erosion of the teeth, the correct form is, to an extent, restored.

 

[No skills]

(Now going way off track and on safari somewhere.. )


Not heard the rust your file to sharpen before, might look into that. I think I have read in my blacksmith book that leaving old files in acid solution will sharpen them to some degree - partly from dissolving anything thats clogging the teeth (anything that will dissolve that is) and partly from the acid eating away at the narrowest edge of the teeth making them finer.
Thats not a good description at all but I think you should get the drift.

 

[dickm]

If anyone is thinking of patenting (anything), then it's apparently important not to reveal any details in any way before applying for patent. Got caught out years ago when some work we were doing could have resulted in a patent, but it got some publicity in local press which was enough to invalidate any application.

Of course, if our resident chemists want to do experiments and publish details for the common good, then let's encourage them.

 

[Giff]

Is Corro-Dip similar to this one. http://shieldtechnology.biz/restore%20photogallery.html
Axminster sell it in small and large bottles. There is a liquid and a gel, they are re-useable and bio-degradable.. Giff

 

[jimi43]

Is Corro-Dip similar to this one. http://shieldtechnology.biz/restore%20photogallery.html
Axminster sell it in small and large bottles. There is a liquid and a gel, they are re-useable and bio-degradable.. Giff

Probably is the same stuff...by the look of it.

About the same price too if you divide 20:1 to 6:1 and then multiply by 4 to get a litre.

I haven't tested this competitor so I don't really know but they sell a degreaser at the same price which would indicate the tool might benefit from degreasing.

Would be interesting if someone bought a bottle and tested it....I won't need to buy any more for some considerable time as I have loads left...and as I said...that is a couple of years old even though I do restoration of tools every week. :wink:

Jim

 

[Setch]

I used the shield tech' Restore on a chisel which I finished tarting up today - I'll post some before and after pics, but it seems to work very much like you've described the corro dip.

 

[AndyT]

If Alf was still posting on here, she would doubtless have chipped in with some useful and thoughtful contributions by now. As she seems not to be, I hope she won't mind if I lead the way to her blog post from March 2011 where she did a direct comparison between the Shield rust removers and citric acid.

 

[Harbo]

Yes a pity Alf is no longer posting - a great loss?
I use Deosan "Dilac Plus" Milkstone Remover which is a cheap way to buy Phosphoric Acid. (info gleaned from an Vintage Car Forum).
Comes a in a 5L container and is diluted with water. Works well but the finished black/grey coating needs removing with wire brushes etc if a sparkly finish is required?

Rod