Copper clad worktops?

[Limey Lurker]

The French have been using pewter for bar and worktops for a long time so this could be an alternative. There are companies (https://halmanthompson.com) that offer copper worktops so perhaps speak to them and try and learn a bit more about the issues with copper and see what your client feels then.

I always thought that the French bar-tops are Zinc!

 

[niall Y]

" Le Zinc" is the term usually used, but I believe pewter tops are also included under this general description. ..

 

[Doug71]

Not only copper, I know someone who had solid marble counter tops in the kitchen. They soon learned not to cut lemons on that as well.

The husband wants the rest of the tops in marble but the wife doesn't as she says it marks too easily.

Worktops for a show kitchen for people who don’t cook ….springs to mind

It's a proper traditional well used kitchen complete with big old Aga which often has cats, dogs and even sometimes one of the chickens (if it manages to slip in unnoticed) asleep in front of it.

There is nothing shiny, everything has a nice aged/used look..........just realised maybe that's why they are getting me to make and paint the new cabinets, they don't want them looking too perfect

 

[Inspector]

The husband wants the rest of the tops in marble but the wife doesn't as she says it marks too easily.

Our kitchen has Granite countertops. Hard and nothing seems to etch them...........so far at least......7 years since installed. There are some amazing looking Granites if plain doesn't tickle your designer's fancy but carry an equally amazing price. The Copper will age to a nice patina.

Pete

 

[Distinterior]

Marble is not advisable for kitchen worktops.....It is far too soft & susceptible to acids, grease, red wine, curry stains etc....Granite or Quartz are a far better option.....If the customer really wants to push the boat out, then a sintered stone is the one to go for, such as Dekton by Silestone.

 

[Ollie78]

The husband wants the rest of the tops in marble but the wife doesn't as she says it marks too easily.

As Distinterior says its not wise. The people I knew who had the marble had spent a very large sum on their new kitchen with all the good stuff.
I was really quite surprised no one had advised/ warned them against the marble, it was white with grey veins in it with an ogee moulded edge with matching bit on the giant island with the sink in.
I was working on something else there at the time and it took about a week for the first lemon incident !

On another worktop note my brother had a white sparkly man made quartz stuff and it got stained by curry powder or something pretty quick as well.

 

[Distinterior]

As Distinterior says its not wise. The people I knew who had the marble had spent a very large sum on their new kitchen with all the good stuff.
I was really quite surprised no one had advised/ warned them against the marble, it was white with grey veins in it with an ogee moulded edge with matching bit on the giant island with the sink in.
I was working on something else there at the time and it took about a week for the first lemon incident !

On another worktop note my brother had a white sparkly man made quartz stuff and it got stained by curry powder or something pretty quick as well.

It is unfortunate that a lot of people just assume that if it's a " Stone" worktop ( real, or manmade...) they can put anything on them without worry, but that is just not so.
Any strong colours, such as food dye, curry or red wine, if left on the surface overnight for example, could potentially leave a permanent stain.

The sintered stone material that I mentioned above, is now widely offered by various manufacturers and is indeed very hard wearing,......but at a price!

This was a job I did a couple of years back and it had Dekton Trillium worktops & a splashback......It really is very hardwearing and is available in quite an extensive range of colours.

 

[highwood122]

not in that league but i used 600 x 600 tiles for mine. still looks the same after 10 years, we always cut stuff on wood or plastic boards otherwise it sods up the knives

 

[Doug71]

To update this my customer has had quotes of £1500-£2000 to cover a cut to size plywood top about 1400mm x 615mm with copper, as I understand it that's me suppling the ply and cutting it to size for them to just cover.

Customer thought it sounded a bit expensive so has ordered a piece of copper big enough for about £300 and reckons we can do it between us

I do know a chap who has a big metal folding machine who will help me out which is useful.

Don't know if this is a daft question but can you cut copper with a router? I was wondering if I could just cut the plywood top to size, adhere the copper on slightly oversize then trim it flush with a flush trim bit?

 

[ChaiLatte]

Don't know if this is a daft question but can you cut copper with a router?

I can only tell you about machining copper in a mill or lathe.

You would use a razor sharp HSS tool (as opposed to a carbide cutter). I would therefore guess that a router cutter made for aluminium would work well.

The traditional lubricant/coolant for copper is milk! I would try a wax lubricant, in an effort to stop the copper gluing itself to the bit.

Another option might be to make a copper sandwich, with sheets of plywood as the bread and cut with a tracksaw.

Go down the local scrappie and see if they would sell you an old hot water tank that you could use for practice.

 

[Ollie78]

To update this my customer has had quotes of £1500-£2000 to cover a cut to size plywood top about 1400mm x 615mm with copper, as I understand it that's me suppling the ply and cutting it to size for them to just cover.

Customer thought it sounded a bit expensive so has ordered a piece of copper big enough for about £300 and reckons we can do it between us

I do know a chap who has a big metal folding machine who will help me out which is useful.

Don't know if this is a daft question but can you cut copper with a router? I was wondering if I could just cut the plywood top to size, adhere the copper on slightly oversize then trim it flush with a flush trim bit?

I would think a single flute spiral might work.
When cutting metal or plastic sheets I normally use my circular saw on a rail, but go backwards so pulling the saw towards you.
I know it sounds mad but it works much better, use a blade with a fairly high tooth count. Do it on a flat sheet of plywood and set the blade to go just deeper than the sheet metal.

or a nibbler or thin slitting blade on a grinder.

 

[MF1000]

A 1/4” shank tungsten carbide die grinder bit would be ideal ….flat sided cylinder ones are easily available.