Converting a cellar to a workshop - practical considerations

[agbagb]

Just some additional thoughts and observations from my cellar.

Have the stud work away from the wall and floor (as Mike suggested) and ventilate the gap, either passive or forced with fans. If all the ventilation pulls up from floor level around the whole work area the damp should be controlled, even from the floor. And whatever heating you have will not then be blown straight out.

An old fridge or freezer, with the door left open will make a really cheap dehumidifier (good for your budget). You would need a sump attaching that you can empty.

My tools and stuff stored in well ventilated stay rust free, things piled up in corners are worst, cupboards with a good gap behind them aren't bad. Anything hung on the brick walls is terrible. Storing timber down there in stacks near the floor is no good. On racks at the ceiling level is OK for a bit.

For temporary cheapness on the walls how about "corex" corrugated plastic, like estate agents signs. Light, white, non rotting and cheap.

Andy

 

[MikeG.]

An old fridge or freezer, with the door left open will make a really cheap dehumidifier.

For temporary cheapness on the walls how about "corex" corrugated plastic, like estate agents signs. Light, white, non rotting and cheap.
Andy

I have posted elsewhere on dehumidifiers..........just about the spawn of Satan in my view (except in the aftermath of flooding or similar emergencies). I rank them right up there with patio heaters as the greatest indulgent waste of our precious resources. If you are having to rely on de-humidifiers, then you have got the prevailing conditions wrong. Adjust the conditions! Get the ventilation and insulation right, keep the damp out physically........anything but bl..dy dehumidifiers!!

Sorry if that strong view offends........

Unfortunately, Corex on the walls will always look a bit like Corex on the walls! It may not help sell the place.......

Mike

 

[ike]

Right first time, wrong second.........

Not bad for a guess then.

 

[ike]

anything but bl..dy dehumidifiers!!

Sorry if that strong view offends........

Each to their own Mike. But why stop there? How about large plasma/LCD TV's?, full central heating?, tumble driers?. A typical dehumidifier uses no more than 120W or so and doesn't usually operate on a high duty cycle either.

As bad, maybe worse than patio heaters, heated/air-conditioned home conservatories! :roll:

Ike

 

[agbagb]

Non taken Mike
I'll look up your previous posts on the demon machines, spawn of satan.

Vented Studwork + 30mm kingspan + Corex = cheap + practical
I've not included pretty in the equation. I must admit Corex isn't helping estate agents to sell when they put it on sticks outside houses at the moment.
:wink:

 

[MikeG.]

heated/air-conditioned home conservatories!
Ike

.....oohhhhhh Don't get me started!! You are dead right.....but maybe this is for another thread on another day...

Mike

 

[MikeG.]

anything but bl..dy dehumidifiers!!
Sorry if that strong view offends........

But why stop there? How about large plasma/LCD TV's?, full central heating?, tumble driers?.
Ike

Yep, dislike them too!! Particularly tumble driers.

I spend as much time as I can trying to design central heating out of existence, but given the state of our current housing stock I accept it is a necessity.

People have got so lazy now that haning the washing on lines seems too much of a chore..........chuck it in a machine instead seems to be the message.

120W, by the way, is about a third of my whole house heating requirements during the heating season. I wouldn't be blase about 120 watts!

But we are getting a long way off-topic.......

Mike

 

[StevieB]

Some interesting points there, many thanks. Doing a forum search on dehumidifier threw up this useful thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=136381#136381

I am getting a much clearer picture of what I plan to do now with the walls, floor and ceiling, soon be time to think about internal layout! I can feel a sketchup session coming on...

Steve.

 

[Jake]

Why do you say its an over the top solution Jake?

No-one has seen your cellar, but you, so it's a bit of a punt in the dark, based on my own experience. It's musty because you've shut off the ventilation it needs. I'm surprised it's cold. Lining the walls will do nothing for noise and cold to the house, and insulating the ceiling brings way fewer problems than lining the walls. Battening out for cupboards as easy as putting in stud walls, and there's less of it - and it can leave the gap behind well ventilated.

Tanking (which has its own problems) is done to avoid the problems with dry-lining, where you are trying to get the same amount of ventilation to clear damp from non-tanked walls, while adding a lining.

The bricks can be limewashed if you want them white - still allows the masonry to breathe. Wee beasties ... hmm. OK if they trouble you.

I don't think you'll add much if any value to the property unless you do it properly and tank it, but I guess that depends on how gullible the buyer is, and how diligent their surveyor is (paid to be).

Of course it is your cellar though, and your choice - there are several people advising you how to go the dry-lining route, I'm just providing a counterbalance.

 

[RogerS]

Mike - question for you. In one of your posts, you mentioned cutting the kingspan roughly to size then filling in the gaps and then filling in the gaps left by the original wedges. Isn't that a bit of overkill or am I missing something? Was lying in bed last night wondering if any studies had been done about this? I can see that there might be a little heat loss where there isn't any insulation but if that is the only reason then isn't it a prime example of diminishing returns?

 

[MikeG.]

Roger,

the alternative is to "friction fit" the Kingspan, and cutting it pretty close to accurate, trimming it, banging it into place, then pushing scraps into the inevitable gaps is just second best, both in terms of the job you are trying to do, and your time. Much easier, and much better, to deduct 20 or 25mm from the length & width measurements, roughly cut the stuff, offer it up propped with 4 wedges, and blast around with foam

Furthermore, if you are using 2x2s as in the example we were talking about, the overall stiffness of the wall is much improved using this technique.

What did you old dad used to say?.....

........."if a jobs worth doing, its worth ----- ----?"

Mike

 

[Jake]

I think Roger meant re-foaming the gaps that are left when you pull out the wedges.

Normally, I can see that for airtightness purposes, but in this application, where the wall is vented anyway...

 

[MikeG.]

I think Roger meant re-foaming the gaps that are left when you pull out the wedges.

Normally, I can see that for airtightness purposes, but in this application, where the wall is vented anyway...

Oh, I must have mis-read.....


......if you are being really very picky, you would say that the "wedge gap" still matters, because it would be a cold spot on the lining (wall surface) and thus a potential site of mould growth etc., whereas the ventilation slot and hole doesn't have lining n front of it.......but that really would be splitting hairs!

Mike