Complete handplane novice fettling old Stanley No 5

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tekno.mage

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Beautiful Mid Wales
Actually, I've briefly escaped from the world of spinny things! Since missing out on doing woodwork at school/college (clashed with physics) long ago, I've always had a vague feeling I should know how to use a handplane - and I'd quite like to make some square boxes as well as round ones. Doing some basic research on the interweb revealed that there are 4 basic kinds of handplanes for sale:

a) Beautiful tools with a price way out of my range, which are so good they probably teach the user how to use them!

b) Cheap chinese imports which are often not worth the £20 - £30 they cost and would need a lot of work to be anything like usable.

c) Tatty old nameless things with bits missing in junk shops claiming to be "antique" and priced according to size and amount of rust covering them (the bigger and the more rusty the higher the price.) Not worth the effort unless you are a handplane expert.

and

d) The occasional pre-war Stanley or Record that is worth salvaging and at a nice cheap price.

It would appear that all four types can be found on fleabay, but it may be hard for a noviice to tell b, c & d apart from the fuzzy photo. Also, as I'm a total novice with handplanes (and a girl), I had no idea what type I wanted - maybe a 4 or 5 or 5 1/2... But I did know I wouldn't be spending any dosh until I'd handled the thing - I didn't want something too big, too heavy or something made for people with huge hands like rugby players....

But yesterday I got lucky and a found the second-hand tool dealer at a local flea market had a few bench planes on display. There was a big long one, and two slightly smaller ones. I picked each up in turn and only really liked the feel one of them - it was marked Stanley Bailey No 5 Made in the USA. It was a bit grubby and scuffed, but had hardly any rust and all the bits seemed to be there. I gave him £15 for it and took it home.

Ever impatient, I removed the blade, cleaned it up and then sharpened it as per plane-fettling information found on the web. Then it was onto a piece of wood. A bit of split ash log that was waiting to be bandsawed into a turning blank. Into the workmate with it and give it a go - A couple of false starts, and I was away - and watched the top of a rough piece of ash become nice & smooth and level (well not quite as smooth as it should have been perhaps, as it was still a bit green.)

I was astonished. Firstly that I was able to use the thing and make progress so quickly and secondly that it the plane actually worked! I found it easier than using my partner's electric planer which is noisy and too heavy for me and likes to leave nasty grooves in the wood when I try and use it :-(
I actually enjoyed the process using the handplane and it didn't need as much strength as I'd assumed.

Today I discovered on the web that the plane is a 1933 model and the handles (under all the dirt and thick varnish) really are rosewood. I've now taken it apart to fettle properly - and am in the process of soaking the frog assy & all the screws in paraffin to remove what appears to be years of caked on grease.

I'm also in the process of flattening the sole of the plane using a sheet of thick plate glass in a plastic tray (to catch the water & mess) and some wet & dry. This is taking a long time, is very messy and much harder work than using the plane on wood! However, progress is gradually being made and not only is the whole sole gradually becoming polished, but some of the worse nicks and scratches are beginning to disappear. When I remembered to add a splash of Honerite gold to the water, it became easier as I can now l wander off & leave the whole lot wet with no fear of rust and just keep on rubbing it on the wet & dry when the fancy takes me. But then I have the two sides to do as well.... And refinishing the handles, and maybe even touching up the black paint where it's chipped off...

I doubt my finished efforts will be as beautiful as some of the planes you people here have restored/built from scratch, but I'm way pleased with my purchase and am beginning to understand there may be a slippery slope here.....

tekno.mage
 
thanks for the tip on Honerite gold, will be getting some of that. some pics would be nice.
 
Nice to hear about another convert to handtools. I must remember to have a look at the turning section sometimes!
 
I'm no expert and I am sure one will be along soon if I am wrong but to flatten the sole I thought the plane should be assembled!

I only mention it as I know how much work is involved in that and I wouldn't want you to be wasting your time or finding that having assembled it the sole is pulled out of square.

Mick
 
Hey there Tekno

Sounds great! We like photos :wink:

It sounds like you've got the frog assembly soaking and you're fettling the plane without it in??

The plane should be fettled with the frog in position and the blade in and under normal tension. When the blade is in and under normal tension, it can change the profile of the sole of the plane, so fettling without it in place may cause you more work in the long run.

Also dont over tighten the frog screws. I have a plane that is particularly susceptible to the sole distorting when over tightened.

Sorry if you already know this stuff, but dont want to see you spoil that nice new (old) plane :wink:
 
Hi, tekno.mage

Welcome to the wounderfull world of hand planes :wink: Looks like you have a good one there.
Flaterning is usually done assembled but it shouldn't affect it that much.

Pete
 
If it is old and well used it most likely won't need any 'fettling' beyond cleaning, sharpening, scraping off rust and dosing with linseed oil.
Then if it works well, that's it, job done.
Too much enthusiasm could make it worse.

I did one over there . It works perfectly after 15 minutes of fiddling, but still looks a mess. I'm quite happy for it to stay that way.
 
mickthetree":8yv67uw5 said:
It sounds like you've got the frog assembly soaking and you're fettling the plane without it in??

The plane should be fettled with the frog in position and the blade in and under normal tension. When the blade is in and under normal tension, it can change the profile of the sole of the plane, so fettling without it in place may cause you more work in the long run.
What he said.

Oh, and you are allowed to retract the iron (blade) while you're fettling :p :D

Cheers, Vann
 
mr grimsdale":fgqj3ozx said:
If it is old and well used it most likely won't need any 'fettling' beyond cleaning, sharpening, scraping off rust and dosing with linseed oil.
Then if it works well, that's it, job done.
Too much enthusiasm could make it worse.

I did one over there . It works perfectly after 15 minutes of fiddling, but still looks a mess. I'm quite happy for it to stay that way.

Yes I agree with Mr Grimsdale here, look after the sole of the plane, and who cares what the sides look like? so long as it does the job in need, believe me you need patience to clean a plane and bring it looking like new,
 
mr grimsdale":3r33s1o2 said:
If it is old and well used it most likely won't need any 'fettling' beyond cleaning, sharpening, scraping off rust and dosing with linseed oil.
Then if it works well, that's it, job done.
Too much enthusiasm could make it worse.

Only if it's ill informed.

With good advice, the worst than can happen is that some aspects of the plane end up more fitted than is minimally neccessary.

BugBear
 
tekno.mage":2nvg4wzg said:
I'm also in the process of flattening the sole of the plane using a sheet of thick plate glass in a plastic tray (to catch the water & mess) and some wet & dry. This is taking a long time, is very messy and much harder work than using the plane on wood!

Be careful - that process can (if you don't take various precautions) result in the plane sole becoming convex. This is VERY bad, and difficult to rectify.

At least check the sole shape with a trustworth straight edge every so often.

BugBear (who really must get his website re-hosted)
 
I read your long and detailed first post and as I was absorbing the text...I realised that you have started superbly!

Also, as I'm a total novice with handplanes (and a girl)

You are streets ahead of most....and more importantly, you have done your research which has allowed you to progress carefully and successfully.

I find that rather than plain wet and dry...after some course work....I hit the sole with progressive grades of 3M micromesh (available on fleabay) and it is worth its weight in gold. But you have got the sole to a working condition so leave it there...as others have said...don't overdo it.

What you have done is hit on a good vintage when quality was still there. That means that when (and you will) you look for others to go with your fantastic investment (and it is), you will know what you are looking for.

Try the half ranges...the 4 1/2 is lovely...but a No 4 is the smoother for most.

The big ones...presumably a No. 7 is for jointing...it has such a long sole that when you use it, it flattens the face to enable good joints to be made.

Once you get used to it and fettled it...you will find it will slide on its own...that is what you are experiencing with the No.5 and that means it is working correctly...they should glide with little effort (even for a girl :wink: ) and go...WHOOSH...

You will get used to this sound when you know it is right!

There are a million other aspects of fettling such as bevel angle, edge projection...microbevels....frog seating...let alone cosmetic considerations.

You will learn these and their relative importance to the basic need...shavings!

You have made a good start and pictures are being craved by the crew here...something I think you need to address post haste!! Please!!! :D :D :D

Cheers and good luck!

Jim
 
thats a bargain at 15 quid.

I have a Bailey no 4, which is a beautiful plane that stays on the shelf for the time being.

yep like everyone else has said, be careful and try not to overdo it.
 
I picked up a stanley 5 from the father inlaw and a 7 from fleabay. When I get time I'll take some photos and perhaps someone can give me a clue as to how old they are before I start trying to clean them up.
 
Thanks for all your kind comments! I will endeavour to take some photos when the rain here stops (ie there's some decent daylight - where did the spring go?)

I realised before I'd done too much lapping of the sole that the frog should have been in place and rectified that! I have now removed all the nasty chipped & dirty old laquer from the knob & tote and found some really lovely rosewood hiding underneath. I've also now de-rusted & cleaned all the parts of the plane and re-assembled it after polishing it all over with rennaissance wax (handles included). It's not a perfect restoration job by any means, but my thoughts were to do a little at a time and see how it helped - I can always go back and perfect things later (and metal once removed, can't be put back!)

It seems to work much better now and I was able to plane one side of a dry rough sawn ash board reasonably flat in not too long a time at all - best of all were the wide, curly shavings coming out the plane! Tomorrow I shall attempt to plane the sides & back of the board and see how square I can get it!

The only slight problem I've found is the amount of play in the adjuster screw, but I understand this is quite common with this type of plane and it's something you learn to put up with.

I think I'm probably after a No 4 next... Oh dear....

tekno.mage
 
If you get a chance, some pictures would be great.

I am working on a No.4 at the moment...I want to change the iron...make my own and a thicker chipbreaker too...but I need to see how good my hardening skills are first!

Cheers

Jim
 
Hi there,

I finally gave in and took some pics indoors with flash - the weather still be grey and overcast here :-( Sorry if the pics are not as clear as I'd have liked.

Here's the no 5, after my first gentle fettling sitting on the piece of bandsawed-from-a-dry-log ash board I planed with it :)

From the front
Planefront.jpg


From the side (doesn't that rosewood tote look gorgeous?)
Planeside.jpg


And the sole
Planesole.jpg


It doesn't show well in the photos, but there are still some marks & scratches on the sole & sides, but they are just cosmetic and don't stop it working quite well. After cleaning, de-rusting, flattening the sole, & stripping the chipped old filthy varnish off the handles I finished the whole plane with Renaissance wax which made the rosewood look and feel lovely & smooth and the plane itself glide over the wood really nicely.

It turned out I chose a fairly bad bit of ash for my first attempt at planing a board to size - there was a nasty knot at the end on one side, and like all the wood we harvest here in mid-wales it was all gnarly ripply grain. Looks lovely when done, but the grain keeps changing direction making the planing somewhat more challenging! I got there in the end, though - but the thickness is out by almost 1mm at the end with the knot (which I'm going to cut off anyway). I think I'll make it into a hook board for coats by turning some ash pegs to fit to it.

I'm definitely on the slippery slope regarding handplanes now though.... Yesterday, I bid on and won a Stanley No 4 (which from the ebay photos looks a similar vintage to my No 5 - we shall see when it arrives) on fleabay for £8.00.

Then, only a couple of hours after that, I was tidying up a particularly grotty corner of the workshop (where a lot of the old broken farm tools and dead power tools lurk quietly) and discovered a poor abused Record No 3 rusting quietly in an cardboard box! Aside from the obligitory rust, it had suffered a bad case of paint overspray (probably car primer from the sad grey colour) the beech tote was broken in half and the front knob was loose.

This one really is a bit of a basket case - and appears to be around 1960 vintage, so it's nothing like as nice as my No 5. The lever that adjusts the iron from side-to-side is bent, the little forky thing that moves the blade in and out is the cheap version made of two bits of pressed steel. One of the screws that holds the frog in place had been really chewed up by a previous owner and I had to use a dremel to recut a slot in it so I could get it out.

Sadly, it looks like it hardly had any use at all before being abandoned and neglected (even the blade looks like it only ever had one attempt to not sharpen it!)

The whole thing is now in bits, soaking in paraffin before the metal parts get properly fettled (and repainted blue, not overspray grey.) Next job will be attempting to make a new tote and front knob for it - I think it will have to be boxwood as it's the only really hard wood I already have in the sizes required. I happy enough to turn the knob, but I think making the tote will be a lot more challenging!

I will report back as to how it goes and on the No 4 when it arrives - and take more pics of the job as it progresses.

tekno.mage
 
Hello,

I'm doing a similar thing with a number 4, 5 and a record 180 block plane. I'm interested to know what method you used to de-rust bits and strip the handles.

Cheers Craig
 
Hi Craig,

After mostly dis-assembling the plane as much as is easily possible & taking off the tote and knob, I soaked all the metal parts in a plastic container of paraffin overnight. The paraffin dissolves all the dirt, old grease etc and will make stuck screws much easier to remove without risking damaging the slots.

The actual rust removal was done by hand (sad isn't it?) Flat areas like the sole, sides & flat areas of the frog were done by using various grits of wet & dry on a sheet of plate glass lubricated with paraffin. (This was very tedious - the next one I do will probably meet the belt sander with a fine grit belt for initial de-rusting.) I then used a hand-held small wire brush for carefuly de-rusting any corners and crevices and screw threads. The brass parts were cleaned by washing in hot soapy water and polishing with autosolve. I found a copper pan scourer was marvellous for removing blemishes, paint splashes etc from any nickle-plated parts without scratching.

I would say that the No 5 didn't have a serious rust problem when I bought it - the No 3 that is still soaking will probably need more aggressive treatment! Cautious use of the belt sander with 180 grit belt on flat areas and maybe light use of a small wire brush in a drill or dremel for more complicated areas - I know I alm going to have to repaint the No 3, so will be less concerned about wire-brushing all the paint off as well as the rust.

A tip for de-rusting or polishing small flat things on wet&dry on a sheet of glass is to hold them on one of those small tool-rack magnets. I found this method was great for cleaning up the plane iron before sharpening.

I used a small scraper to remove the old varnish from the rosewood handles - luckily it was quite a thick, brittle coating and came off very easily by scraping without damaging or scratching the wood underneath. After scraping most of it off I finished off by hand sanding the parts from 240 - 400 grit abranet. I mounted the knob on the lathe to sand it as it is smaller and harder to hold on to!

tekno.mage
 
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