Combi Drill advice

[TheUnicorn]

I got a christmas present of a Ryobi drill driver--totally useless, keeps dropping drill bits out of the chuck--seller won't do a thing for me now because it's just over the 30 days since purchase. Quite disappointed.

If its any consolation I remember having the same issue with bits falling out of the chuck on a new dewalt, I couldn't tell you how long that was an issue for, for a while I was consciously giving a little tighten every now and again, I've had the dewalt for maybe four years now and I can't remember the last time I had a bit come loose

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[Doug71]

On drills with proper locking chucks once you have tightened the bit in the chuck you turn the chuck back the opposite way one click to lock it, you can tell if it's a locking chucks as they make a ratcheting sound. To remove the bit you just twist the chuck as normal.

Most decent drills have locking chucks but very few people know how to actually use them.......wonder how many people head to their shed to play with their drills after reading this



Edit to say ignore the above, it has been pointed out I was talking rubbish........

 

[Jameshow]

Btw DeWalt Makita busch have a pro and DIY range which are very different. Ryobi us definitely fit where as miwalkee is pro.

Also 5.0 ah batteries make a big difference too.

DIY DeWalt with plastic chucks gave been fine for men's shed use including driving in 100mm screws into oak.

 

[TheUnicorn]

On drills with proper locking chucks once you have tightened the bit in the chuck you turn the chuck back the opposite way one click to lock it, you can tell if it's a locking chucks as they make a ratcheting sound. To remove the bit you just twist the chuck as normal.

Most decent drills have locking chucks but very few people know how to actually use them.......wonder how many people head to their shed to play with their drills after reading this

 

[--Tom--]

I’m in the mains sds and then a lightweight drill driver camp too- but then most of what I do is in my house or workshop so don’t need to worry about being near power.
For my needs I much prefer mains as they have less inbuilt redundancy- 3 cordless drill drivers and 1 cordless sds are now defunct whereas my mains stuff is all still on version 1 in the same timeframe.

 

[Doug71]

Ha ha, well that's me wrong then, I read it years ago and never had a bit fall out so presumed it was true!

@TheUnicorn thank you for correcting me on this

 

[TheUnicorn]

Ha ha, well that's me wrong then, I read it years ago and never had a bit fall out so presumed it was true!

@TheUnicorn thank you for correcting me on this

can't remember if it is this video or another but it was suggested that if it works at all it is because you are paying more attention to tightening it down properly, before ironically loosening it by one click

 

[Phil Pascoe]

My DeWalt dropped bits out as well, it drove me nuts.

 

[okeydokey]

For general DIY use as the OP mentioned I would suggest either DeWalt or Makita both in the same sort of price arena. The key to me would be to try each of them with the same size battery and see what feels best in the hand. That's the one you need!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.yandles.co.uk/hand-saws/hikoki-18v-combi-impact-drill-twin-pack/

 

[Deadeye]

Whatever you go with, a bit of tedious battery management will pay dividends for longevity.
- Unless the battery is freshly charged (within 48 hours), then recharge it before use. This is because of the way the charge is used and replaced across the multiple sub-batteries inside the unit.
- Try not to run the batteries down below about 30-40%

In practice this means having some back up sets of batteries for when you are working hard. That in turn is problematic for hobby users as the batteries can go a longish time between use and recharge.

I use Milwaukee 12V (drill, driver, jigsaw) and Milwaukee corded (SDS, angle). In hindsight, I should probably have gone 18V. The jigsaw in particular needs more power than the 12V system allows for any real length of cut

 

[Phil Pascoe]

In hindsight, I should probably have gone 18V ...

Better to regret something you have done than something you haven't. You can do lightweight work with a heavyweight tool, but not the converse. Be careful doing comparisons that you aren't comparing apples and oranges - that Erbauer is 50Nm, my Milwaukee is 135Nm. A lot more expensive, but you get what you pay for.