Colouring Oak

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Glynne

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Having been looking at some of the woodworking on Instagram, I was quite taken with darkening oak using a tea solution and then ferrous acetate (0000 wire wool dissolved in clear vinegar).
I was just about to start a solution and remembered I had confiscated some 0.880 ammonia from my Mum (no idea why a 90 year old lady has ammonia in her garage but I didn't trust her with it) so fuming is also an option.
Does anyone have any experience of either / both of these techniques and what, if any, is the difference in the final effect?
 
Iron oxide/ferrous acetate solution is a simple and effective stain but is very unpredictable and hard to control. It can give you anything from a red through to black, though usually black ( depending on the tannin level ). Ammonia will give you more control, you can achieve anything from a light greenish brown through to black but it is very unpleasant to use, lots of precautions are needed to be able to use it safely. What is the effect you are after? If you want an aged look to your oak you could experiment with washing soda, a dessert spoon full in hot water washed over will give an aged brownish/greenish tint with non of the unpleasant/dangerous effects of the two you have mentioned. There is also Potassium Permanganate, which with a little experimentation will give a good antique brown, despite its vivid purple colour and has the added benefit of being an antiseptic for the cuts on your hands!
 
Hi Glynne,
I have no experience of fuming,but I do use the vinegar and steel wool .I Just leave steel wool in with the vinegar for a few days and then strain the vinegar into an other jar.I use a plastic jar and plastic lid as the metal lids rust.The more coats the darker the finish.


Peter.
 
I've been interested in this too. Does the vinegar and steel wool solely colour the oak or does it have an effect on how the oak feels and behaves? For example is the surface softened at all? Can you apply traditional finishes over it?

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Thank you for the replies guys.
I'm after a darker colour rather than an aged look - I mainly make boxes so a colour contrast works well whereas I don't think a differing age look would work. I have so much oak as to be untrue hence I'm keen to be a little creative with it.
I want to try and get away from a stain / dye look which I think looks good on say ash but not so good on oak, especially quarter sawn with the medullary rays.
Thank you for the warning over the H&S aspects but fortunately I have a good science background, hence I confiscated the ammonia from my Mum! Still no idea why she had it (neither does she).
I have had a quick go with fuming (had a weeks training with Dodge and we tried brown oak which just came out grey) so I think the ferrous oxide is probably the way.
Glynne
 
Hi Glynne/Beartricks,
Give it a try on a scrap bit of oak,wipe on ,brush it on or dip it in the solution,I think that you will be surprised just how BLACK it will be and not gray.Once it is dry I rub it down with 0000 steel wool then wax it and buff it.I also use liming wax after the solution has dried,the white wax fills the open grain and looks good.Try it and let me know how you get on.


Peter.
 
BearTricks":3dj7kv97 said:
I've been interested in this too. Does the vinegar and steel wool solely colour the oak or does it have an effect on how the oak feels and behaves? For example is the surface softened at all? Can you apply traditional finishes over it?

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

No softening or other change, it's not like Brown Oak which can sometimes be a bit punky, but the colour is bit variable (purple and red hues) and unpredictable. You can indeed apply most finishes right on top.

The Barnsley Workshops and Marc Fish are both currently experimenting with scorching oak followed by acetic acid/wire wool. They say that neither technique on it's own gives the effect they want. Scorching doesn't get right down into the grain, and if you scorch too much in an attempt to get a darker black it tends to burn away the arris by joints and make them look a bit gappy. Acetic Acid on its own doesn't give a consistent black. But the two together adds up to something really special. Best tool for controlled scorching by the way is one of those kitchen accessories for scorching creme brûlées.
 
Took apart a handful of pallets a few weeks ago so I have a flower pot full of nails rusting away in the garden. Just chucked a handful of them in a jar of white vinegar so I should have some results in a few days.

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