Colouring experiment

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

johnny.t.

Established Member
Joined
29 Oct 2008
Messages
1,714
Reaction score
0
Location
Norfolk, near the sea.
Made a little Ash HF this morning(having the morning off work 8) ), it was a bit plain looking so I decided to try my chestnut spirit stains on it(having not opened them till now). The form is 4 1/2" tall. I used black, red and yellow stain. The finish is a hard wax.

colouredash006.jpg

colouredash008.jpg

colouredash009.jpg


It would have been nicer if the colours had floated a bit on the surface longer for manipulation, can this be done by wetting with thinners first or sealing the timber first?

Cheers JT
 
Very nice Johnny,

Did a very nice little green bowl ( ended up a funnel :-( ) yesterday myself and was going to ask same question,

Where is Terry when you need him ?

I tend to have more dryed spriit stain on my cloth/paper towel than i can apply - whats the idiotproof may of doing this ? - brush ? - thinned with spirits of some sort ( not sanding sealer as we dont want to raise the grain ! )

Loz
 
I usually apply spirit stain with a small brush as this method is far less wasteful than using a cloth. I've also done some experiments applying it with a small brush with the lathe revolving slowly - you can get a nice spiral effect on box lids and similar like that.

The only problem I have with using spirit stains is finding a hard wearing non-spray finish to use over them that does not cause the colours to bleed into the finish. Waxes are ok for things that don't get a lot of handling, but I usually use melamine laquer on my boxes and the stains definitely bleed into that. It's not a problem for single colour boxes (ie stained all over) but is for anything more creative where I want to use several colours on one piece. I'm resisting using spray finishes as I've nowhere to sensibly set up a spray booth and I really don't want overspray all over the lathe/workshop!

tekno.mage
 
If the wood is sanded back really smooth the stain doesn't soak in so readily Johnny. It also varies from wood to wood. On open grain woods like ash you get the effect you have there, very effective but on something like sycamore it would be very different.

If you thin the stain it seems to just get lighter.

Loz. Try using a foam paint pad. Cloth seems to soak the stain fastr than you can apply it, same for a paper towel

Pete
 
tekno.mage":1a1kl4kh said:
I usually apply spirit stain with a small brush as this method is far less wasteful than using a cloth. I've also done some experiments applying it with a small brush with the lathe revolving slowly - you can get a nice spiral effect on box lids and similar like that.

The only problem I have with using spirit stains is finding a hard wearing non-spray finish to use over them that does not cause the colours to bleed into the finish. Waxes are ok for things that don't get a lot of handling, but I usually use melamine laquer on my boxes and the stains definitely bleed into that. It's not a problem for single colour boxes (ie stained all over) but is for anything more creative where I want to use several colours on one piece. I'm resisting using spray finishes as I've nowhere to sensibly set up a spray booth and I really don't want overspray all over the lathe/workshop!

tekno.mage

Any i have done have had a covering of Chestnut gloss acrylic, and dont bleed. But as you say - they are smelly sprays !! ( take mine outside - but that limits me to daytime, and a nice warm still day ! LOL
 
Bodrighy":zy1oicys said:
Loz. Try using a foam paint pad. Cloth seems to soak the stain fastr than you can apply it, same for a paper towel

Pete

Oh !

Thanks Pete - and i know just where to get some !
 
JT,

You might have some luck it you spray with meths and then try to blend them. Also, try starting with the darkest shades, then sand with progressively fine grits between each shade.

Ben
 
hi Jt
use some cellouse sanding sealer first- apply at least two coats de-nibbing between coats- this should help to stop it soaking straight in.
 
Thankyou for all the comments, this piece was sanded down to 1200 before colouring. I think I'll get some meths and wet the next piece with it before applying the stains.

Loz cheers for the link, that guys colouring is fantastic!

cheers everyone
JT
 
Whilst the lumberjocks work is great I felt sea sick trying to access it. Paul Hannaby's work is all Masur Birch which I can't afford. I'll keep on playing and experimenting I think :lol:

Pete
 
loz":3qp70nh4 said:
Where is Terry when you need him ?

Story of my life! Although with all the responses I don't think I was needed at all.
There are lots of different methods of achieving various results and I think they've all been listed here, so it'll be a case of what suits you best.

Meanwhile, we are working on a high-gloss, non-spray non-solvent finish, should be along in a couple of weeks.

Thanks JT for showing this, it looks great and is a wonderful example of what can be done with our stains.
 
Finally got round to catching up on this post JT, personally I don't think any more colour blending would have added anything to the piece.
The current tone of the wood and the enhancing of the grain structure by the natural absorbtion works for me, all in all I think it's just enough to enhance natures bounty.
 
Thanks Chas and Terry

Terry Smart":2w778ksr said:
Meanwhile, we are working on a high-gloss, non-spray non-solvent finish, should be along in a couple of weeks.

This sounds like what I'm looking for, care to elaborate Terry?

JT
 
johnny.t.":3qf5ha6t said:
care to elaborate Terry? JT

We get in trouble promoting products we can't yet sell, and sometimes unexpected problems (failure of suppliers usually) cause us to reschedule so I will tell more, but would prefer to wait until 'The Right Time'. It shoudln't be long (he says, trying not to think of the beleaguered Buffing Kit system)
I hope you understand.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top