Ci1 Roughing Gauge, anyone?

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Some of the americans are raving about it, reckon it removes wood like a jcb :lol:

Can't see it for sale in this country though.

Pete
 
Just what i thought Nick :wink: :lol:

I'd be tempted to try it out with an old sorby tip ground down...
 
Hi Nick,
Ive had one for a while now and would reckon its as good as the manufacturer claims.
Good for roughing, end grain, spigots, bowls inside and out,and i'm sure other things I haven't tried it for yet.
It can even produce a reasonable 'finish' in some situations.
Its beautifully made and the the maker, Craig, is a nice guy to deal with.
Delivery took about 10 days.
I would advise you use a heavy handle as it helps with the balance and you need that bit of weight when you use it.
Takes a little while and a few catches to get used to it but its capable of shifting a lot of wood quickly.
I would recommend getting the guard with it,, to deflect all the shavings.
Im very pleased with my purchase and use it regularly.
regards, beejay
 
A slightly less 'heavy duty' version more in tune with the smaller HP machines could be put together with a bit of 12 or 15mm square bar and some metal turning tips.
 
I have been trying out a similar set-up, but have yet to come up with a tct cutting tip which likes to cut timber. ie: with a sharp cutting edge. The tct's I have tried can scrape the wood, but don't leave a decent finish. Have been told tct's for working aluminium may be OK, different cutting edge profile I imagine, but have not acquired one yet.

Or another trial would be to grind a edge yourself, again I will have to get a 'green' wheel. Just ain't found the time to continue with the tool as yet.

SO if anyone goes this route, would be great if they could publish their results on the forum.
 
Some info. on carbide insert shape and sizing.

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm


I'm surprised that the Large tips used on the Ci1 have no cutting rake profile, just appear to be as per a scraper.

I note that Stu says he can stop his Nova DVR with his Ci1 so I doubt people with a lower power machine will be able to achieve video standard wood removal.
 
Thanks for that chart Chas. I'm no 'metal' man so this will be great help, at least now I will know what I am talking about, and looking at.

Gives me a bit more incentive to try again to get a tip for my test tool.
 
Hi Tam, watch this space as they say as far as THE inserts are concerned, don't suppose anybody would be willing to part with hard cash if a legitimate import route materialized.
 
Hi folks, not been posting much, just been busy, but I thought I'd drop in and say "hi" and comment on this tool.

I was a bit skeptical myself, but on another board, some of the members who I trust were really raving about this tool, so I got hold of Craig and he sent me one.

As Chas already put up the links to the >> vids << I made, have a look if you can stand listening to me drone on and on :oops:

While this tool will not smoke that *** or make you a cuppa, it WILL remove a LOT of wood in a BIG hurry, and easily too, with not much drama.

True, I can stall my Nova DVR 3000 at will, but it is not anything dramatic, no handles flying up and hitting you in the face or anything like that, just too aggressive a cut, and it stops.

Craig is coming out with a smaller version of the tool, called a CiJr, which will be better for the smaller lathes, and he is also working one one with a round cutter.

The quality of this tool is really top drawer, you just don't see much on the market made to these standards anymore, it is really a well thought out design and it is well made.

The carbide inserts are not your typical run of the mill inserts, they are sharp, like slice your finger open sharp, and they stay that way a LONG time. I've roughed out 5 10" bowls, in Red Keyaki, which is a kind of Elm, this wood is nearly dry, and is HARD stuff. When I use my P&N Supra Flute gouge, I'd have to sharpen it every minute or so, it dulls the tool that quickly, but with the Ci1, I'm still getting great results with the first side of the carbide insert, and there are four sides!

Take a look at my vids, (thanks for posting that Chas), I'm not making any money off of this, Craig is one heck of a nice guy to deal with, and the tool is all he says it is, I'm for supporting an entrepreneur with a good idea, and who is committed to service.

Nuff said.

Cheers!
 
Been watching Stuart's video's and agree the tool shifts timber, but I wonder what the finish is like. It appears to be a glorified scraper, what I have been looking for is a tip with a sharp cutting edge, and turned upwards so it gives a shearing cut, not a scraper.

Don't know if such a tip is available in metal tools, and probably the tools already marketed of this type have custom made tips.

Mind you if I was into production turning for a living I can see the benefits of being able to rip timber off like that. Will keep my eye open for a suitable tip for my idea, but don't think I would fork out for this tool.

In the meantime will continue with my conventional tools. :)
 
OK, I had a great conversation via a Skype call to Craig today, we discussed a bunch of things, and he gave me somethings to think about, regarding how this tool cuts.

On Craig's suggestions, I have modified the handle of my Ci1 Easy Rougher..........



I have to say, Craig, was right, this is much more comfortable to use. The bumps, make push points, so you don't have to grip the handle so hard.

I did two 10" rough outs in about an hour, speedy for me :)

That makes seven blanks roughed out, all but one with the hard tool dulling Keyaki wood, and now, I guess I'll think about rotating the cutter to use a fresh side
I found that by following Craig's advice, I was able to take much better cuts, I guess more time on the tool helps too. I now seldom stall the lathe 8)

The video that I put up was the second blank that I'd roughed out, so I was really green there (pun intended :roll: ) ) but I'm getting better at using this tool with each go.

Cheers! :D
 
I have to say, Craig, was right, this is much more comfortable to use. The bumps, make push points, so you don't have to grip the handle so hard.

:)Cheers! :D



:? How much pressure do you need to put behind the cutter until it's into the wood?, any chance of a close-up image of the wood surface that this tool leaves.

IMO,If it's a cutter it should cut without forcing it into the wood, I always sharpen chisels, knifes and anything else that cuts if I need to push the tool with excess pressure. :)
 
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