chuck sticking on headstock spindle face

[Arnold9801]

I have just experienced a jammed chuck in my Poolewood lathe. It won’t come free no matter what I do. Have started with wd40, banging a punch in the chucks holes and a square chunky piece of square metal in the chuck and a pair of stilsons but no joy.

Anymore advice.......Please?

 

[minilathe22]

In my experience it is a sudden rotational impact that you need to create, leaning on it gradually with leverage is no good. Do you have a secure method for locking the spindle? then square piece of wood/metal inbetween the chuck jaws sticking out as an arm, hit it with a mallet. Little bit of heat on the back of the chuck mounting plate to expand it may help. I am sure others will have advice as well.

 

[Arnold9801]

In my experience it is a sudden rotational impact that you need to create, leaning on it gradually with leverage is no good. Do you have a secure method for locking the spindle? then square piece of wood/metal inbetween the chuck jaws sticking out as an arm, hit it with a mallet. Little bit of heat on the back of the chuck mounting plate to expand it may help. I am sure others will have advice as well.

I have been thinking about applying heat. I’ve got an experienced woodturner coming over to help me tomorrow......fingers crossed!

 

[NazNomad]

I have just experienced a jammed chuck in my Poolewood lathe. It won’t come free no matter what I do. Have started with wd40, banging a punch in the chucks holes and a square chunky piece of square metal in the chuck and a pair of stilsons but no joy.

Anymore advice.......Please?

Lock the spindle.

Clamp a bar in the chuck (as pictured below).

Give it a clump with a big hammer.

You're ''less likely'' to damage the chuck this way.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If it's a 28 40 unscrew the spindle stop button before you start, and put a bar right through the spindle. If you use the button you are likely to break it.

 

[Arnold9801]

Eureka!

An experienced woodturner came to help me today and even he had real issue s releasing it. By engaging the lock8ng pin and using brut fo4ce it was no surprise the locking pin snapped.

We opened the lathe up and used a strong bar to lock the spindle and eventually the chuck came free.

What a pain, but I’m using leather washers from now on!

Thanks for your advice.

 

[Retire2004]

Just a thought, some chucks/faceplates have an optional dual cut LH/RH thread (Graduate lathe to mention one). This means that the thread contact area can be quite low (probably only 30-40% at a guess, or even less!). This can apply considerable pressure on the thread flanks and cause binding. This happened to me recently on my Graduate. I have never used washers (yet) but would not use milk bottles as the plastic is blow moulded and thickness can vary considerably (so the washer can be tapered).

Tudor

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Eureka!

An experienced woodturner came to help me today and even he had real issue s releasing it. By engaging the lock8ng pin and using brut fo4ce it was no surprise the locking pin snapped.

We opened the lathe up and used a strong bar to lock the spindle and eventually the chuck came free.

What a pain, but I’m using leather washers from now on!

Thanks for your advice.

:lol:

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Just a thought, some chucks/faceplates have an optional dual cut LH/RH thread (Graduate lathe to mention one). This means that the thread contact area can be quite low (probably only 30-40% at a guess, or even less!). This can apply considerable pressure on the thread flanks and cause binding. This happened to me recently on my Graduate. I have never used washers (yet) but would not use milk bottles as the plastic is blow moulded and thickness can vary considerably (so the washer can be tapered).

Tudor

I've always cut mine from the centre panels of six pint cartons, so the there is very little variation in the thickness. It might be measurable on a metal lathe but I very much doubt it's anything like enough to matter on a wood lathe.

 

[donwatson]

I have only used a washer made from the shiny paper backing from the sheet of white sticky labels.
After I have used the sticky labels I keep the sheet handy in the shed.
It is a simple matter cutting out a 3/4" bore hole to fit over the nose, the outside diameter can be what you want but I use 1 1/4".
I reckon I have used 3 of these in 12 years and never had a chuck stick yet.
Cheap and reliable.

Don W

 

[NazNomad]

I've always cut mine from the centre panels of six pint cartons, so the there is very little variation in the thickness. It might be measurable on a metal lathe but I very much doubt it's anything like enough to matter on a wood lathe.

Dammit, I was hoping to use the 'wobbly washer method' to straighten out some of my dodgy bowls. :-D