cherry bowl

[T.allan]

I have aquired a cherry tree stump about a metre and a half. I cut it up and sealed the ends with old gloss paint lying about in the garage. I cut it into manageable sizes. This is a product of a part of the stump.

After drilling a hole through the centre I used a 3/8 bowl gouge to cut it out. Being a complete novice at this i had to develop a technique After trying the cutting edge in different angles I found the best way was at an angle with the gouge and the left side of the flute at approx 10 o'clock.
I coated the outside with sanding sealer three times ans lightly sanded between each coat until I saw the wood starting to glow.
I do hope there will be some comments

 

[CHJ]

Well done T. Tool angle of approach is very much a personal thing, as long as you have the bevel rubbing so that you can control the depth of cut without a catch the rest is looking for the sweet spot that gives smooth shavings without chatter.

Cherry is quite difficult to get a blemish free finish on, close textured, reasonable firm, and very good at highlighting the smallest cross grain scratch.

Not a criticism but a comment for the future, you seem to still have some tool/sanding marks on the inner surface.

If you have one use a rotary friction sanding disc as opposed to hand held abrasive which is apt to leave circumferential tramlines if you get a bit of loose rogue grit trapped.

Make sure each grade is cutting freely with light pressure, and work down through the grades, try not to heat the wood, cherry can form little micro crack blemishes.

If scratches show up but do not disappear quickly with next grade down go back to previous grade.

One coat of sanding sealer should be sufficient, cut back with abrasive (320/400) or grey nyweb (with care nyweb can scratch cherry) when dry to remove any dust particles.

Then apply preferred finish such as wax, friction polish etc.

 

[T.allan]

Now here's a second bowl and I dared go a little deeper

 

[T.allan]

I lost the image on that last post. here it is

 

[mrs. sliver]

It looks like the brown patch is part off the layer under the bark not the wood itself which is why the texture is different. I am not sure what happens to it if you leave it on, possibly it will peel off as it dries.
But well done on pieces, cherry is an evil splitter!! and that is a good finish for such early pieces of green wood!!

 

[Bodrighy]

As Mrs S has mentioned, the dark brown is proably the cambium layer. I usually either take it off if it's loose or if if there is just the odd gap a little dab of super glue.

This shows the different layers

HTH

Pete

 

[T.allan]

I aquired this old bar table and cut it down to make plates. I got 5 small plates out of it.Again it was a way of gaining experience between dry wood and wet wood.
I found this particular exercise not to my liking. The surface of the wood was so dry and covered with probably dry polish from years of use that it turned to dust. This was not an easy experience, fotunately i had some masks I found the results to be reasonable. I polished these with beeswax.particular

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[Paul.J]

Coming along very nicely T.
I have an Ash trinket box i turned on one of me earlier pieces with a piece of the brown outer layer left on and it's still their.Looks good me thinks
I would just echo what Chas says about the finishing process.
Then when i do look back at my early pieces i think what was i playing at.
Think i was just in a hurry to get the piece finished,and get a finish on :roll: Not much as changed

 

[Bodrighy]

IMHO flat bottoms as on this plate are probaly hardest to get a good finish on. Are you using a scraper or a gouge to do them? Regarding the dry wood, try spraying it with water before sanding, I've found this helps get a better finish and keeps the dust down a bit.

Pete

 

[T.allan]

when I first started to investigate woodturning I looked up "how to"you know, like using chisels, Shaping wood etc but know I find there is more interesting theoretical knowledge and very useful knowledge, which you all seem to have with regards to being more efficient. Each of you have all raised very valuable comments and I think I can see the relevance.
Yes I do I think I try to reach the end product a little to early.
I have taken every peice of information on board and I hope to produce some very worth objects so thank you one and all for giving me the benefit of your experience

 

[CHJ]

In the platter you can see the scratches from sanding whilst the lathe is rotating.

On your next piece try sanding "with the grain" by hand with the item stationary.

That way any scratches formed will be masked by the natural grain patterns and not be so obvious.

On some items I spend longer hand sanding small problem areas than actually turning the item.

Red Wood from bar tops or tables treat with caution, wear face mask and cover skin as much as possible, there is a chance that the wood is IROKO and as well as being obnoxious itself can sensitize you to other woods. very quickly.

 

[Dean]

Hi T, I'd say you've done really well with your first pieces and cherry's not the easiest of woods to turn, the first piece of wood I turned didn't even look like wood after I'd finished with it :lol: :lol:

 

[PowerTool]

Nice pieces,like the grooves for decoration - I like things that highlight or accentuate the timber,rather than overpower it.
Something to try later could be burning the grooves,to add a bit of colour - I use a length of wire (stripped out of some twin-core),with wooden handles on each end.

Andrew

 

[T.allan]

I've taken on board the tip for sanding and will definately be doing that. The wire to burn the lines onto the wood should be my next objective, as will all the other suggestions.
Thanks one and all for taking the time to give encouragement and support, to others as well as myself.