chainsaw chains

[MikeJhn]

With Oregon PowerSharp it takes 15seconds tops to sharpen you chain, I will never to back to another sharpening device, you guys should check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THLg6EgLJk8

Mike

 

[Beau]

With Oregon PowerSharp it takes 15seconds tops to sharpen you chain, I will never to back to another sharpening device, you guys should check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THLg6EgLJk8

Mike

You sure it's good?

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat ... sharp.html

Never met a Pro who uses one.

 

[MikeJhn]

Yes I am sure it is good in fact excellent, I don't cut up logs for a living, just a normal user who has an aversion to wasting my time sharpening chains when I could be doing something useful.

Mike

 

[Beau]

Yes I am sure it is good in fact excellent, I don't cut up logs for a living, just a normal user who has an aversion to wasting my time sharpening chains when I could be doing something useful.

Mike

Each their own I guess.

Much as Jacob points out in sharpening threads there is nought wrong with the simple ways. Round file £1 max and guide if you so choose for few pounds more. No special gadgets or chains required. Takes 3 mins to sharpen a chain.

ps I do cut up logs for a living.

 

[MikeJhn]

I only cut up logs to supply my Rayburn and Jotul throughout the winter, cut down trees to supply my woodstore for seasoning, but I don't consider myself an expert by any means, have you tried the Oregon PowerSharp yourself?

Mike

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As Beau ^^^. I find it doesn't take long to touch up a chain, my theory being to touch it up before it goes blunt rather than wait til that time. It's easy then, no loss of form or angle. In the decades I've used one I've never used any sort of gauge, just the file(s). I tend to go along with the poster on Arbtalk - if you can't sharpen a f chain, you shouldn't be using a f chainsaw!

 

[MikeJhn]

A bit like if you can't repair you car you should not be driving one? I am afraid I also use those new fangled radial ply tyres and power tools. LOL

Mike

 

[Phil Pascoe]

A bit like if you don't know where the water goes and that your tyres need air in them you shouldn't be driving, maybe? Spend your money how you wish. I'm not about to follow suit.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I've just ordered a pack of 2 of those Rotatech chains for £11. Unbelievable! I read the Arbtalk thread right through (12 pages) and it's clear the professionals are more or less on board citing these chains as retaining the sharpness as well as an Oregon but perhaps a little more "jumpy" ie rakers not as well ground.

I figured for a tenner it's worth trying because only last week I paid £18 for a new Oregon and thought that was a good price and that's for one chain. The £11 was for 2!!

Frankly, at a fiver a chain, if they are decent enough quality, its almost not worth sharpening. Mine's a 68 link chain/18" bar so sharpening is a chore I don't relish.

 

[duncanh]

I wonder how well they'd convert to ripping chains for our alaskan mill (ground to 10 degrees). We currently have 2 chains which we switch over part way through the day when the first gets blunt but even 2 chains are ready to be sharpened after 3 or 4 hours of slabbing oak. Having 4 should take us through the day nicely.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Funny you should say that as I've just ground one of mine to 10 deg for that very purpose. In my case it wasn't housed in a mill but "I" was the mill because I wanted to cut quite accurate platter blanks and you need to not deviate too far from parallel if they're only 1.5" thick. I thought it was high time I ripped my butt's standing end grain up so they're stable....that would facilitate more accurate cuts...I thought.

And it worked a treat, I did one of Ash and one of oak (butts) about 2 foot long and some 15"-16" diameter. First time I've used a 10 degree ground "ripping" chain. I'll certainly be going down that route again and I agree those cheapies seem pretty likely targets to stack up a few sharpies if you've a long session ahead of you. I'll see if I can dig out the snaps I took

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Once slabbed into thin blanks I started bandsawing to round.

So I recommend the 10 degree ground chains, they make cutting into end grain easy which allows control which in turn gives a better quality finished blank with only finishing needed on the bandsaw.

 

[Wuffles]

I've got some 9ft long lumps of "I don't know what" that I foolishly bought last year that I intended to get ripped down for use as benches, but now you've got me thinking about setting up a 10 degree chain and giving it a go myself. Blissfully unaware of the concept before this thread.




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[Beau]

Get planking Mr Wuffles

It's good fun making something from wood you have planked yourself. The usual mill folks use with a chainsaw is the Alaskan. Not cheap but built to last.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Weld, do you? You could build your own mill ...

 

[Wuffles]

Just in the process of getting rid of some woodwork machinery to make some room in the workshop, but do go on


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[OwenRS]

Try chains direct they are only 2 units down from us and have all the big names.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

By the way....tried those new fangled Rotatech chains (the new cheapies). Fantastic. Goodbye Oregon, never again will I waste my hard earned in your direction.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Excellent. Good to know.