CD rack

[mailee]

I have just finished this CD rack for SWMBO to go with the computer desk I built recently. It is made again out of MDF with a Pine frame. The MDF 'box' for want of a better word is spray painted with Wickes High gloss white and the frame is a dark oak/mahogany stain.

 

[Rich]

Nice one Mailee, if you can do that when there's not enough hours in the day, what could you do if you were paid? the lipping sets it off luvverly.
Regards, Rich. =D>

 

[Woodmagnet]

Nice job Mailee, looks like you are getting into the "groove" of things :lol:

 

[mailee]

Well Rich, when I am paid I can build things like these:

Not often SWMBO gets a look in really. :lol:

 

[Mike.C]

Very nice Alan. Now let me think what could be on the stand under the sheet. :-k :-k give me a clue, is it yellow and black by any chance :?: :lol: :lol:

Cheers

Mike

 

[mailee]

:lol: :lol: It is my baby yes of course Mike.

 

[speed]

tha knocks out some good stuff fella

 

[oddsocks]

Mailee,
can you share the technique you used to spray with Wickes gloss - I've never had much success with brush painting MDF so am looking for alternatives. All the paint I see in the local DIY store is semi solid so I have never tried spraying.
Did you spray /brush coat any MDF primer first?

I've got the usual compressor and 'fence treatment' spray gun but would invest in a better system if the project needed it

Thanks

Dave

 

[mailee]

Hey thanks Speed, I do try hard. Mind you there are far more talented people on here I can tell you. :wink:
Well Dave yes I can. With MDF I find that it does need a primer/sealer of course. I use Johnstones MDF primer which is White in colour. I first sand the MDF with 120 grit to key the surface and then prime it using a foam roller giving it two good coats. Once this is hard which is usually the following day I sand this down with 320 to 400 grit using the RAS as I hate hand sanding if I can avoid it. :wink: Once this is sanded clean all the area well with a damp cloth and tack rag removing the dust. It will pick up more dust of course as it is a woodworking shop after all but the less the better. I then use the HVLP gun which is gravity fed and if necessary thin the paint to suit. The Wickes stuff doesn't need thinning and will go through the gun without problem although you may have to adjust your hand speed distance as necessary to get the disired flow out. This is then given two to three good coats leaving an ample flash off time in between coats around 30 mins seems to work. This is then left for two days to fully harden so go and work on something else in the meantime. :wink: Once it is fully hard I then wet flat the finish with 800 to 1000 grade wet n dry paper used wet with a little soap or liquid in it. This prevents the paper from clogging too quickly. If it is large flat surfaces then use a block behind the paper otherwise use your hand/fingers as necessary. I use a rubber sanding block so I can then use this to wipe away the sludge to see how flat the surface is. If you catch it in the light you will see any imperfections in the surface which need to be flatted more. Once this is complete then I use a machine polisher to bring up the shine. There are a few compunds on the market you can use but I would recommend something not too harsh as you wouldn't want to remove all that lovely finish would you? Well I hope this helps answer your question Dave. It is a lot of work I know but well worth the effort I think. :wink:

 

[Rich]

Hi Mailee, very nice pics, they justify my earlier comment of looking for your postings, they inspire me.
Regards, Rich.

 

[mailee]

Well thanks Rich, nice to hear.

 

[oddsocks]

thanks for the detailed reply Mailee. I'll follow it (and get the HVLP system) next time I have a painted project.

Dave