Cavity Wall Fastenings

[custard]

Anyone know what is the thread size/type for the screws that fit into this type of cavity wall fastening?

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/pro ... ing-580204

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I've used those and as I recall they taper inside so take a range. I used 4.5mm 2.5" fixings for the towel rail I put up in the kids bathroom using them.

 

[custard]

Thank you Bob

 

[ColeyS1]

I think they'll take either a 4mm or a 5mm. The trick is to get them in a pair of mole grips first, and wind in and withdraw the screw. If you put it in the plasterboard first, then try putting the screw in, more often than not it'll just mangle the plasterboard without ever getting the screw in as much as you'd like.
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[Rorschach]

I think they'll take either a 4mm or a 5mm. The trick is to get them in a pair of mole grips first, and wind in and withdraw the screw. If you put it in the plasterboard first, then try putting the screw in, more often than not it'll just mangle the plasterboard without ever getting the screw in as much as you'd like.
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I have had this happen too, tapping the thread with a screw works well, I have also used glue with them on very soft boards.

 

[deema]

IMO the invention of the devil! I now core drill the plaster, remove the plaster plug, create a proper fastening and then no nails or similar the plaster plug back in. Quick bit if filler and paint touch up and I know it won't cause me any embarrassment by pulling the plaster out if the wall!

I know it sounds a lot of effort, but it really only takes about 10min

 

[ColeyS1]

I should say I'd never choose to use that type of fixing, very similar, but way way way better.
I originally use to buy my plasterboard fixings from winzer wurth. I stopped using them so tried some similar looking to your link. They didn't seem to wind in as nicely as the wurth ones.
These are the wurth ones

and after alot of searching I managed to find exactly the same shaped ones on ebay. You'll notice the cylinder shape on the pointy end travels right through to the opposite end so it can't wander about, like a screw does. Those flat spade pointy bits seem to have a mind of there own and go anywhere they choose. Well worth trying some of the style I use if you dislike them that much. Their miles apart from the others.
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[Jasper42]

Used these quite a bit, just be careful that the plaster dab holding the plaster board to the wall is not where you try to screw it in. Tens to just made a bigger hole, I always punch through with a small screwdriver as it checks what is behind the board and also the depth as this can also cause a problem, they do come in different lengths.

Austin

 

[Togalosh]

The ones I buy come with the screws & have found that using anything else is a recipe for a mess.. they are 4mm x 35mm.

(As said above they awful to use because that end tab fouls the tip of the screw making you overtighten the whole thing right through the board leaving a great big hole. I use 1 intact fixing to make a pilot hole & fit 1 with that tab snapped off.

I have seen these but yet to try them .. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/pro ... ack-986184 )

HTH
Togs

 

[woodenstx]

The ones I buy come with the screws & have found that using anything else is a recipe for a mess.. they are 4mm x 35mm.

(As said above they awful to use because that end tab fouls the tip of the screw making you overtighten the whole thing right through the board leaving a great big hole. I use 1 intact fixing to make a pilot hole & fit 1 with that tab snapped off.

I have seen these but yet to try them .. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/pro ... ack-986184 )

HTH
Togs

I am/was a big user of the Fischer large threaded inserts (as the OP), but where the dot and dab boards are on the brick walls, there isnt enough space for the point. I opted for the gripits for some shelves. VERY impressed!

Not knowing anybetter I also got the undercut bits to asssit where a dot/dab was hit.
Gawd knows how one would fill the hole in the event of removing the shelves :lol:

 

[Paul200]

I would never use the self-drilling fixings for anything that carries any weight. They are very dependent on the quality of the plasterboard they are fixed into and will work loose eventually anyway. I've used the Gripit fixings to hang a very heavy 1.8m towel radiator on a plasterboard wall and couldn't praise them highly enough. They even come with weight ratings - not many manufacturers are that brave! They also solve the problem of expanding cavity fixings not having a deep enough cavity to expand in.

Until Gripits came along my usual method of fixing into cavities would be to drill a hole, fill the cavity immediately behind the fixing with foam, let it set and then use a deeply driven wall plug and screw or a long frame fixing. The foam stops the plasterboard from caving in as you tighten the screw.

Cheers, Paul

 

[AjB]

I think they are 5mm

 

[yanky]

These tear out very easily. Why don't you go for the Molly type?

 

[Robbo3]

The Ultimate Handyman has done a number of short videos on different types of fixings & how much load they will carry.
There are a lot to wade through so scroll to the bottom & keep clicking the 'Add More' button.

- https://www.youtube.com/user/ultimatehandyman/videos

 

[DBT85]

Personally ona cavity wall I either find a stud with my fat neodymium magnet or use a gripit. A couple of those are doing good work holding up a radiator.

 

[johnnyb]

Read this with interest but nobody mentioned dryfix pro fixings. Tried gripit they are rubbish tbh and very fussy to get right. The screw type fixings are ok ish but can cause trouble Nd are not great with weight. Personally I would prefer an uno plug also not good with weight but combined with construction adhesive on a batten not bad. Check out dryfix pro. They are only available on eBay atm. They can give a strong fix in aerated blocks and concrete. They are a bit like a 2inch long plug combined with a plasterboard screw fixing. They come with the correct screws and a screwcups if needed.. they have two different sized drills in the pack. A hss drill 6mm for aerated blocks and an8mm masonry drill for concrete blocks. The long plug screws into the aerated block and the plasterboard if you drill and it's hard concrete swap to the large drill. This gives a plug type fix in the block and a screw type fix in the board. Really they are miles better than grip it's but for some reason they are not well marketed. I've hung loads of kitchen cabinets on these with no problems. If you hit a dab doesn't matter ! Try em you'll like em ps I've nowt to do with em!
Jb

 

[johnnyb]

Sorry just checked the van there called dryline pro.not dryfix pro