Castorising a Sedgwick 12" planer

[Benchwayze]

Hi folks,

I have to put castors on my Sedgwick, 12" planer/thicknesser, (350 kgs) because I am tired of using 1" dowel as 'rolling, Roman-runners' to move it around. I have the correct rated castors for the job.

I don't have a chain-pulley, to lift the machine, nor anywhere to sling one from above even if I did. I don't think a car-engine lifting frame would be man enough either. I do have a rolling car-jack, but I am loathe to apply any force under the tables.

I need to lift the machine by 9" to slide a ready made castored trolley under it. I have a feeling though, I will only be able to fix two castors at a time, which might mean tipping and supporting the machine, while fixing. Any ideas please?

Cheers
John :idea:

PS Does any ex-Naval bod remeber the name we used for these chain-pulleys? It's driving me crazy trying to recall it. :lol:

 

[woodbloke]

I read that quickly and thought it said 'Castrating a ...' :shock: :lol: - Rob

 

[Benchwayze]

Now that really is a load of 'bollcks' Rob!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[p111dom]

9 inshed sounds awfully high to me. When my Jet table saw turned up it was left on the drive way wich only me to lift it into position. I used two 8 foot long 2 by 4's under it and levered it up against my workmate that I had placed on the other side. I would have thought that it weighs the same. Up and small swing round. Reposition the workmate and so on. If you weren't going to attach a block and tackle to the beds where were you going to attach it to?

 

[Benchwayze]

Dom,

There are protruding lugs at the base of the machine. I was thinking of attaching the chains to them. The 9" is just to get clearance to position the trolley under the machine. Then lower it onto the trolley, and secure with coach bolts. It's just a case of finding something to lift the machine. Or some other way to jack it up and do one end or side at a time.

On completion, the machine would be raised by about 5". I can easily make a platform to stand on when using it, if I find the new height is inconvenient.
My driveway has a wicked slope away from the house btw. The supplier (Kendal) delivered it himself and we used builders planks and rollers to get it up the slope into the garage! .. There it has stayed since...

Cheers John

 

[paisawood]

John,

My Felder 12 inch P/T weighs around 400kg and sits on an Axminster Heavy duty machine mobile base. This works well and only increases the height of the machine by about an inch. It was also easy to install and I only needed to jack each end of the machine up by a couple of inches to slide the base underneath. Not a cheap solution at £69 but well worth while.

It is possible that the lugs on the Sedgwick would complicate the use of the Axminster base, but they could be ground off if necessary.

HTH

Cheers

David

 

[Benchwayze]

John,

My Felder 12 inch P/T weighs around 400kg and sits on an Axminster Heavy duty machine mobile base. This works well and only increases the height of the machine by about an inch. It was also easy to install and I only needed to jack each end of the machine up by a couple of inches to slide the base underneath. Not a cheap solution at £69 but well worth while.

It is possible that the lugs on the Sedgwick would complicate the use of the Axminster base, but they could be ground off if necessary.

HTH

Cheers



David

Thanks David,

Hmmmm! :-k After I spent £50.00 on specially rated castors that need a frame making up! :?

I looked at the Axminster set-up, but I felt the castors might fail over a long period of use. I could be wrong of course.

Now, to slide the trolley underneath, I assume you jacked up both ends of your machine together, (Thus using two jacks.) I could do this, but the underside of the tables are about 24" above the floor. I'd have to jack with 4x4 uprights and cross-braces under the tables. A bit wobbly and a lot of force would act on the tables. I am wary of upsetting the cast iron.

I have a problem I think! Unless a car-engine 'A' frame will lift the machine! Well, there's an amateur mechanic across the road from me!

Cheers
John

 

[paisawood]

John,

I don't know how long the Axminster castors will last, but after a year they are still moving freely.

To install the Axminster base, I just levered one end up and slid one end of the base in before lowering the machine down again. I then lifted up the other end and slid the other half of the base in. It was a bit fiddly to line up the spring loaded pins which hold the base together but was easily done with my wife's help. I then lowered the second end and all was well.

The Felder has a removeable plate at each end of the base which allowed me to lever the machine up by a couple of inches with a length of 4by2. Maybe you could get a length of steel bar under the end of the Sedgwick to achieve the same.

If you follow this route, you will need to shorten the metal joining strips which Axminster supply but this is easily achieved with a hacksaw.

Good luck

David

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks David.

I think you solved my problem. As Axminster's trolley is adjustable, then I can see how this would work.

At the moment the machine is resting on some 1" dowel lengths (as rollers). I have a builders' pry bar in the shed. So I might be able to lever one end up at a time.I just worry about the castors rolling away as I lower the machine onto the castors.

My wife is great for helping me, but I think these days she is past this sort of job, so I'll get my strapping son into the frame!

Thanks again David

John

 

[paisawood]

John,

Castors are all lockable so you shouldn't have a problem with them rolling away when you lower the machine on to them.

Good luck

David

 

[Benchwayze]

John,

Castors are all lockable so you shouldn't have a problem with them rolling away when you lower the machine on to them.

Good luck

David

Many thanks again Dave

John

 

[OLD]

I have had some success by rocking a machine and putting a spacer in the gap then rock the opposite way and put in a spacer it sounds scarry but if you plan it out and have solid spacers of various thicknesses it will go well then when you are at car jack height use the jack and thicker spacers then its slide the trolley under, if two casters can stand the load fine or you will have to support it to keep load off the castors then the m/c has to be slid/bared to its final position

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi OLD.

Yes, I follow you. I saw a guy on YouTube who demonstrated how they might have raised the blocks for Stonehenge. He did it in his garden, using nothing but a spade levers and the weight of the blocks, to raise them. Very efficient, but time consuming. Scary too, but it worked!

Since this afternoon, my son has my problem sorted. He arranged for a 2 ton chain-pulley, (a Westfield-purchase?) and an 'A' frame to suit, so with luck it will be a snap once I make up the chassis. Just lift the machine and slide the carriage underneath.

Thanks for all the suggestions folks.
Regards
John

 

[j]

I had used the varying sized blocks trick when I wanted to raise a desk by a few inches so that it became level with the windowsill. I didn't fancy emptying and dismatling it as there's loads of stuff in that room and it was a very tight fit desk.
I used my car jack to lift one end a couple of inches, then put a block under it and did the other end. Rinse and repeat until the desired height is achieved.

Good luck
J

 

[dickm]

like others, have used the blocks one end then the other trick. BUT, if you do this with something really heavy, don't use breeze blocks or bricks, as a point load on them can cause them to split. With "interesting" results. DAMHIKT.