Cascamite - Good for bonding brass to hardwood?

[MCTWoodwork]

Hello fellow woodworkers.

First time on here and my first post....so be nice!

Just wondered if anyone can recommmend cascamite for bonding metal to wood - in my case it's for a brass detail to an oak table top.

Any suggestions or pointers would be most appreciated.

Kind regards,

Matthew

 

[marcros]

is the choice because that is all you have?

my first choice would probably be epoxy.

 

[thetyreman]

I would also use epoxy.

 

[MCTWoodwork]

is the choice because that is all you have?

my first choice would probably be epoxy.

Great, thank you for the v quick reply.

No i've only got a few wood glues in at present and trying to build my stock up - i'm just starting out on my own.

Cheers,

Matthew

 

[worn thumbs]

Epoxy certainly works.If the current circumstances make it hard to get hold of, you may be able to do the job with one of the foaming polyurethane glues.They have worked for me once in a while when attaching aluminium extrusion to a ply carcase.

 

[Mike Jordan]

I wouldn't consider Cascamite to be in any way suitable. If you look at the posts below it seems that it's no longer of much use for glueing wood either. Epoxy will do the job.

 

[MusicMan]

No. Epoxy then foaming PU eg Gorilla (not the wood glue).

 

[Phil Pascoe]

No I've only got a few wood glues in at present and trying to build my stock up ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zap-Adhesive-Z ... 190&sr=8-1

This is your stuff. You can get a five minute one as well.

 

[Droogs]

Traditional glue to use in boulle marquetry is fish glue if it is for thin sheets of metal and to use rabbit glue for thicker inlay pieces like square section for straight lines etc. As to longevity tests so far show around 4k years and some are still holding
Failing that then epoxy but make sure you give the areas that will be unseen a good rub with 120 grit to give a good mechanical bond for the glue

hth

 

[Racers]

Don’t be afraid of using the pound shop epoxy it works just as good as the expensive stuff.

Pete

 

[AES]

+1 for epoxy here. And for real "long term" results I would recommend the "24 hour" stuff rather than the "5 min" stuff which opften tends to dry a bit "rubbery" IME, depending on brand.

But to add to the rub down with something like 120 grit (on both the wood AND the metal) as suggested above, I would add that a good rub down with a clean cotton cloth (or paper kitchen towel, etc) soaked with Acetone (or cellulose thinners) is essentialafter sanding. This will de-grease the surface (and after you've rubbed it down with the Acetone, do NOT touch the glue surfaces again).

This after a number of years experience in model aircraft where one often joins all sorts of metal to all sorts of wood including balsa, ply, beech, spruce, etc, and where such joints are structural not "merely" decorative.

IME by far the most failures with all types of gluing, especially with epoxy, is traces of grease/oil (followed by loose wood sanding dust) being on the 1 or both surfaces before gluing.

For the "24 hour" epoxy you'll most probably need to clamp it or put weights on it, depending on the job.