Carcases advice

[qaz123]

Im a woodwork teacher and have access to and experience using power tools and table saws planer etc but I've never built kitchen carcases or wardrobes before. Im looking for carcases assembly and hinge advice

I building my kitchen out of birch ply carcasess with inset doors made from birch ply laminated with Formica for drawers fronts and doors

Is it ok to assembly carcases with glue and carcases screws or should I use biscuits/dominos as well to help alignment and add strength. Plan on using Blum tandem box drawers with clip top blumotion 110 hinges. For pull out pantry are 110 hinges ok or should I go with 155 zero protustion hinges. Was thinking of adding strips to cabinet side to avoid 110 hinge

My utility will be made from egger mfc carcases with full overlay doors
What glue and screws should I use when working with mfc

I'm wondering what's the difference between Blum hinge mounting plates with screws, euro screws, inserta and expando. I think it's easier and quicker to use wood screws but I'm worried about strength in the chipboard

I like the look of horizontal plates over cruciform / wing plates

Is there any different in strength. I'm thinking of using this plate 175H5400
Is this suitable for chipboard with wood screws

What's best finish to apply to birch ply. I've heard good stuff about osmo oil. I don't have a sprayer so will be oil or varnish finish I will use

Thanks

 

[custard]

What's best finish to apply to birch ply. I've heard good stuff about osmo oil. I don't have a sprayer so will be oil or varnish finish I will use

Oil on ply is risky. You might get away with it, or it might look scabby and blotchy. The surface layer of ply may well be a wafer thin show veneer, much thinner than the actual plies that make up the core. The UF glue that bonds it all together may have bled through this thin surface veneer in patches. If so the oil won't fully penetrate in these areas, alternatively oil can make the surface veneer semi transparent and reveal voids or patches in underlying plies.

With ply the safe finishing route is paint or a thin film finish like a water based polyurethane varnish. This the one I use, not cheap but you won't find better,

http://www.generalfinishes.co.uk/index. ... ore&CID=27

Good luck!

 

[RobinBHM]

I use confirmat screws with a stepped drill for mfc. Will work with ply also.

Available from hafele

 

[petermillard]

With ply the safe finishing route is paint or a thin film finish like a water based polyurethane varnish.

I'll second that, though the one I like to use is Junckers Strong floor lacquer - great stuff, though always good to see what others use.

Cheers, Pete

 

[qaz123]

Thanks for the replies

As an alternative to birch ply carcases has anyone ever used an mfc board from egger or kronospan with a 2 mm edging that looks like birch ply. Would save time on finishing inside of carcass and probably work out cheaper to buy.
I know it might be as strong but as ply but would save some time.
Would combination of dominos & wood screws be strong enough to join mfc carcass.
Do joints need to be glued.

Would probably go with Blum exando fittings over wood screws in the mfc?

 

[Max Power]

Why would you want to make them , when you can buy good quality glued and dowelled 2mm edged carcasses reasonably priced ?