can it get any worse!!!

[mrs. sliver]

When it all goes pear shaped and I feel like that I take a week or two off from it. Just remember Steve, that for the likes of you and me this is a hobby for fun! not a pressure job like some of these clever chaps on here! =D>
If I don't feel like it i don't do it! I've just been out of the workshop for about a month!! (now I want to go in the lath is broke again! but thats another story) Point is, everyone has times like this Steve!!! I've only been at it a couple of years and thenumber of times I have just walked out of the workshop and wonder why I bother!! But, cheer up, it will all change after you have a good day!! \/

 

[stevebuk]

If I am turning something long like a branch I turn it rough between centres and make my tenon. This as long as the inside of the jaws are deep. make sure the shoulder is square on the tenon.
pete

And there in i think lies the answer, my tenon is not long enough, only been putting it just inside the jaws.
I will also check what pauls says too, but thanks guys i will go and try it out sunday night.
Sorry to bring this thread back up, but hopefully i now have the answer.

 

[big soft moose]

definitely - your tennon should go the whole depth of the jaws and butt square against the face of the chuck.

 

[johnny.t.]

definitely - your tennon should go the whole depth of the jaws and butt square against the face of the chuck.

I thought that the tenon shouldn't go all the way down and touch the back of the chuck?

 

[big soft moose]

definitely - your tennon should go the whole depth of the jaws and butt square against the face of the chuck.

I thought that the tenon shouldn't go all the way down and touch the back of the chuck?

thats how ive always done it - though that said I'm using an axminster K10 so all the way down is relative -its only about half an inch, with o donnel jaws this would be a different fish of kettles, and i'm not suggesting that anyone using these make a tennon 2" long

i guess different people have different techniques - but the sailent point for steve is that it needs to go a good way in so that the jaws grip it properly - and also the bottom of the piece (ie the shoulder of the tennon) should be square to the chuck jaws all the way round

 

[CHJ]

...i guess different people have different techniques - but the sailent point for steve is that it needs to go a good way in so that the jaws grip it properly - and also the bottom of the piece (ie the shoulder of the tennon) should be square to the chuck jaws all the way round

Like this:

 

[duncanh]

That's how I've always done it.

 

[Paul.J]

I presume though that Steve is just turning his wood round without a tenon and fitting it into the jaws :?:
When doing this Steve you will either have to make sure the end in the jaws is flatish/squareish or you have at leat half inch of flat even surface to put into the jaws.You will also have to check that the wood is running as near as true as you can get it,doing so by roatating by hand to see how far out it is.
I have been using this metod when doing my egg cups,and i bring the tool rest up to the outer corner edge of the wood and rotate by hand to see what the difference is.Then i just give a light tap with something to bring it into true.The jaws aren't fully tigtened at this stage but are when the wood is running true.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Steve,

I'm just back from holiday so missed this thread. Glad you're not about to give it all up after all the hard work you've put in (and some of the great work you do!!!)

As usual Chas has got the answer. His drawing shows how the jaws should hold. Remember you need roughly the correct diameter (lets not get to picky here, within 5mm is fine :wink: ) and a point of contact on a face as shown in the diamgram. This should give maximum hold and stability. Don't forget to do it up nice and tight too!!!

One thing no one has asked yet... how long is this stuff you're turning held only in the chuck? Remember, there's no prizes for not using the tailstock!!!!

As for your Spindlmaster clone, I've never used one and don't really see the advantages over a normal spindle gouge when used properly. Either way, Ashley Isles' tools all have a qulaity guarentee so if you're not happy send it back!!! I do know that they will also re-sharpen them FOC because I believe this tool has a wierd bevel that is difficult to sharpen normally. You should only need to hone the top to make it cut though....

HTH Steve,

All the best,

Richard

 

[Jenx]

Hope you're head's in a good place now Steve .... I'm definately another one who makes / has some catastrophic failures .. although they're getting less as time goes on ...

Your patriot jaws aren't numbered .. its supposed to be so well engineered that it doesn't require the jaws to be individually sequenced.
( so Sorby's bumff says ! )

That spindlemaster type tool is a devil to use.... i have read it in many places ! I find a spindle gouge the trickiest tool in the arsenal in 'standard form'... its a pig for catches and digs.. and its well swept back on the grind and I still manage to goof it up.

Take heart, and keep practicing...... you'll get there. 8)
love the failures as much as the successes... they are equally as much part of the learning as the good pieces are.... maybe more ! 8)

 

[stevebuk]

Thanks once again guys for coming to my rescue,
Chas, many thanks for this very explanitory(is that a word) drawing, makes a lot of sense to me.
Paul
I am turning the stock piece betwen centres and then making a tenon on one end to fit in the jaws.
richard
the piece of wood is about 7 to 8 inch long, but i think ( not re-tried it yet) its because my tenon is too short, but will try again on wed/thurs (days off)
Alun
i actually got on fairly well with it until i hit something in the wood(i think), cant understand why pieces would be missing from the end of the chisel otherwise.
as richard said, you only need to hone the top to make it sharp again, although i had to re-grind the edge as it looked like a set of teeth.