Can anyone identify this DeWalt Radial Arm Saw?

[cumbrian]

I recently bought a secondhand bandsaw and a Radial Arm Saw as a job lot, to get me started on the slippery slope. I'm not sure how useful the RAS is going to be to me, but I'd like to be able to identify it so that I can get some replacement parts, particularly for the guard. I've spent quite a while Googling DeWalt RAS and come up with all sorts of stuff, but nothing that matches! In particular, this saw has a square section cast metal latch to lock the rotation about the column - see the first picture.

So can anyone help? It's a DeWalt with a 2HP single phase motor and takes a 12 inch blade - beyond that there's nothing on it as helpful as a model number! (Presumably used to be stuck on the front of the arm....)
Here's some pix:

Many thanks

 

[Chris Knight]

Guessing a bit here. I'd say it was probably a 1970's model and it looks rather similar to an Elu 1251 I once owned - a good saw. Elu was taken over by Dewalt - or may already have been owned at the time I owned my saw 1996 - 2002 or so.

I am pretty sure parts won't be a problem. RAS vs table saw is only slightly less contentious than dadoes so I won't go there. Suffice it to say, I have used them (RAS) a lot and like them but now have a TS because I ran out of space and after a lot of heart searching decided I needed the TS more than the RAS.

 

[Pecker]

my one looks very similar and is badged "dewalt dw110 by black and decker"

mark

 

[Noel]

Give DW a bell in Slough and quote the serial number and they should be able to help.

 

[jasonB]

I think Chris is right, I've got the 10" version but hopefully Scrit will be along to confirm it.

You should be able to get what you need from here

Jason

 

[Scrit]

Thanks Jason!

Hi cumbrian

I think it's a DW111 from the early to mid 1970s. The arm is a one-piece casting and this model replaced the DW110 which was similar but had a switch at the end of the arm. It in turn was replaced by the DW125 with a plastic arm top somewhere around 1976 to 1978.

The original deWalt company were actually taken over by Black & Decker in 1960 and started to manufacture in Italy during the 1960s. Their product range included radial arm saws, small bandsaws and chop saws - no portable tools at all. deWalt divested iteslf of the American end of the saw business in 1989, selling to a company called The Original Saw Co. In Europe the name deWalt disappearwed for a while and the products were rebranded Elu from 1986(?) to 1992 with a colour change from metallic green/orange to black/silver. Elu rationalised the range down to the smaller saws, leaving just the RAS1251-1501-1751, RAS8001-8101 in production (the RAS prefix has been replaced the DW prefix for current models - the last digit is 1 for single phase or 3 for 3-phase). After rebranding the range again in 1992 (and changing the colour to yellow/black) it has continued in production with some minor changes over the last 14 years, but the main thing is that a DW111 can use many of the parts of the current current DW1251 or the earlier DW721, although electrical switches, motors, etc are now different because of the introduction of CE marking inthe 1990s. Having rebuilt a DW1751 from a box of bits a few years ago if you have any particular questions I'd be happy to help.

Looking at the machine it looks pretty complete apart from a few nuts and bolts. The blue wire indicates that it has had some electrical work inthe past - the main thing that goes seems to be the cables (abrasion/stretching), the switch in the handle, the capacitor - and various nuts and bolts, as you can see

RAS vs table saw is only slightly less contentious than dadoes so I won't go there.

:lol: Only if you ripsaw on the so and sos........ :twisted:

Scrit

 

[cumbrian]

Gents

Many thanks for all the information. What was puzzling me was the guard size - I've assumed that this would not be the same for a 10 inch saw and a twelve inch saw, but maybe I'm wrong there? References I've followed for the 1251, which does look very similar apart from the cast metal latch for the column rotate, seem to indicate that it's a 10 inch, but again maybe I'm wrong. I've yet to find any detail on the DW111, but I'll have a search later.
As Scrit has suggested, parts look very similar across the range - thanks Jason for the link, I've also had a look on this site - www.mtmc.co.uk - their diagrams are bigger for those of us without bionic vision, and I've used them for parts for other kit.

As the riving knife and kickback assembly are missing, I've been hoping to source those (hence the need to get the guard size right); however, and at risk of reopening what sounds like an old can of worms and being banned from the site (I plead newbie defence), I'm getting a sneaking impression that ripping is regarded as a total no-no, and presumably the riving knife etc are redundant for crosscuts. Maybe I'd better search the forum for RAS and ripping, unless someone can point me straight there....

 

[Scrit]

Many thanks for all the information. What was puzzling me was the guard size - I've assumed that this would not be the same for a 10 inch saw and a twelve inch saw, but maybe I'm wrong there?

The DW111 and DW125 were both 10in saws - I once had a shop with one of each side by side so I've been able to compare first hand. The main difference was the arm casting - much heavier on the DW111. As far as I can remember the guards were pretty much identical on my pair (and yours looks like that on my current DW1751, the DW125s longer brother) - although that was 25 odd years back, so....... Incidentally, The DW150 and DW175 were originally 10in saws as well. If you wan't parts details ring DW in Slough (01753 567055 options 1 then 4) and ask them to send you out a parts break-down. They still have the parts diagrams (albeit not on the net) - I've had to do that this morning for my DW1420S, another saw which disappeared in the Elu period.

As the riving knife and kickback assembly are missing, I've been hoping to source those (hence the need to get the guard size right); however, and at risk of reopening what sounds like an old can of worms and being banned from the site (I plead newbie defence), I'm getting a sneaking impression that ripping is regarded as a total no-no, and presumably the riving knife etc are redundant for crosscuts.

The riving knife is certainly a lot less useful on a cross cut because if the work is properly held against the fence and tendency to kickback will result in the work being directed downwards and away from the operator - although the motor/blade will also tend to try and climb the work in that instance so correct placement of hands and as is correct posture. Ripping is a different matter - I certainly wouldn't attempt it without the anti-kickback arm/fingers on place as you'll certainly be risking a kickback. The riving knife is there to handle any warping caused by de-stressing of the timber and is also important, but its that anti-kickback device you really must have.

One trick if ripping on a radial arm saw is to face and edge plane any timber before ripping - that way you're less likely to have work tilting or moving as you push through.

At the risk of inducing yawns, take a look at this page - alright that's directed at the trades types like me, but the advice about safe usage is universal

Incidentally your saw appears to be missing the table top (4 pieces + fence as I recall), it's clamps/brackets, the support rail which goes underneath the table, etc. And the guard should have a rear protection piece, shaped like a "C" and a front nose guard. To see what I mean, this is the drawing you need

Scrit

 

[alanalbion]

I have had a DW 1251 for years and live in N Cumbria if you want to come and see one in use.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Alan

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil

 

[mailee]

Wow! Scrit I am well impressed! Your knowledge is amazing. I too have a radial arm saw of the Elu 1251 and wouldn't be without it, sorry didn't want to start anything on here. I never use it for ripping only for crosscuts and as such have taken off the riving knife/kickback fingers. I do find it a bit of a pain making mitre cuts on it though as it makes one hell of a mess of the fence and I am always replacing it. It needs constant care and attention to keep it accurate as they do tend to drift after a while but I love it.

 

[Lee Brubaker]

Heck...I don't mind starting something. I have had my DeWalt Power Shop 1hp RAS since 1958 ( 9" blade ). I have NEVER had a kick back that got past the front of the blade guard...& then due to my own stupidity for trying to rip a length of material too short to engage the kick back device. If one is short of space in the shop....then a RAS is a better choice than a TS...all of which have a larger foot print than the RAS. A well maintained RAS is just as accurate as a CMS & a darn sight more versatile. I no longer machine moldings on the RAS since building a router table. I used to drive my lathe, as well as mounting grinding wheels for sharpening duties. I still use the saber saw attachment. I also mount an old router on the saw & with a tilting table can make some interesting cuts. I don't own a TS....don't need one.

Lee

 

[Stoday]

That's virtually the same RAS that is described over eight pages in "The Complete Manual of Woodworking" by Jackson, Day and Jennings.

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[OLD]

The pictures may helphttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DeWalt-DW125-...QQihZ007QQcategoryZ116672QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[cumbrian]

Many thanks to everyone for all the help and advice, and apologies for not expressing my gratitude sooner - haven't had a chance to get on the PC for important things!

Alanalbion - thanks for the offer. Whereabouts in N cumbria are you?

Scrit - thanks for the info and the H&S link - I also followed a link from one of your earlier posts to a useful H&S leaflet which contained some very sensible stuff. (Yes, a lot of H&S stuff is sensible and useful. Trouble is that all the worthwhile info gets lumped in with the "pencils are sharp and shouldn't be inserted inyo the eyeball" nonsense and disregarded - I believe it's called Pop-Tart Syndrome. Blame Esther Rantzzzen :roll: )
I still haven't got a positive ID for the saw, but I have identified a couple of 12 inch models where the guard looks to be the same. I'm just waiting on a response from DW.

 

[ivan]

I had a new 110 bought in about 1976, yours looks of similar or just later vintage. The 110 was only 1.25 Hp if single phase, and had a 15" crosscut. It had a 10" blade fitted. The travelling head was fitted with three bearings. A mate is still using it, some new roller bearings in the head and capacitor relaced.

I just found the 1976 brochure at the back of the filing cabinet (!) which says the 110 cost me £221+vat. The 3 phase 110 had a 2Hp motor, but still 10" blade, 15" crosscut. At that time the next model up was the 1420 but that had a 2.5(single ph) or 3(three ph) motor and 16 1/2" crosscut; the base had welded on broad sheet metal legs and the head had 4 roller brgs.

I think yours looks like a slightly later short arm with uprated motor, as it has a step in the top of the arm casting. The arm lock looks crude but is miles better than the latest version. The head and motor carriage were much more rigid too. Should be OK if the machined tracks are not too worn or rusted. Good luck with the spares, Ivan

 

[Scrit]

I just found the 1976 brochure at the back of the filing cabinet (!) which says the 110 cost me £221+vat. The 3 phase 110 had a 2Hp motor, but still 10" blade, 15" crosscut. At that time the next model up was the 1420 but that had a 2.5(single ph) or 3(three ph) motor and 16 1/2" crosscut; the base had welded on broad sheet metal legs and the head had 4 roller brgs.

You missed the 1370 (the next one up from the 111/125), the 1600 (bigger,, but only 4 bearings in the carraige) and the 1420S out (just acquired one) - 8 bearings in the carraige (off the 1875) and a 16in blade.

True what you were saying abour wear, though. That's why Wadkins et al had/have replaceable bars for the carrage to run on..... For home or light use it shouldn't make too much difference

Scrit

 

[cumbrian]

Just had a response email back from DW, following my reply to a couple of questions they asked - bore size (30mm) and number of head bearings (four).
They tell me it's a DW1370.

Must say that I'm impressed with DW's willingness to help.

Thanks to all on the forum for your input

 

[hawkeye48]

This is identicle to my 8101 RAS that i have just bought. Mine has the left side guard missing so i am off in search of one.
I think they made different models, they ended in a / then a number. Mine has the number 3 after the /. I belive this means it has the full table supports making a very wide stand alone table.
I am building mine in to my workshop bench so will not be using all these.

Can someone post the Slough phone number please.

 

[Noel]

You're 5 years behind there Hawkeye.....

DW Slough 01753 567 055