calling motownmartin and others
- Thread starter devonwoody
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Mike.C
Established Member
DW the easiest way to explain it is, if the blade body is 2mm, then the riving knife has to be bigger (say 2.5mm). Really your riving knife should be chamfered at the front and thicker the rear, that way when the kerf is cut the knife will not allow the timber to grab the body of the blade, and stop any kickback.
If you look down along your saw blade you will see that the cutting edge is wider then the body of the blade, and it is this body that has to be thinner than the knife. Does that make sense?
Cheers
Mike
If you look down along your saw blade you will see that the cutting edge is wider then the body of the blade, and it is this body that has to be thinner than the knife. Does that make sense?
Cheers
Mike
devonwoody
Established Member
Did a few jobs on the new tablesaw today., like got the riving knife to drop below the blade although it will be maintained at the correct height most of the time unless those special cuttings are required.
I’m wondering why I needed to do the above as an afterthought because if the blade cover has got tobe removed the riving knife might just as well come out as well? I’m thinking tenons and rebates.
Next to get the fence to read zero I had to remove around 15mm from the front end of the rail, I couldn’t move the bracket on the fence any further over, otherwise I would have had an L bracket and not a T bracket, fence to rail! And the Tape measure is glued on.
Next job was sorting out the ruler reader dial, the red line is useless so I turned the plastic magnifier 90% and used a bit of masking tape to give me the read off on the ruler. ( the piece of timber laying there was to get my camera exposure meter to focus)
Dropped the rear table level down so that wooden guides can slide off the end of table, but in the meantime a temporary ply sheet ( from Axminster packing) brings up level required for ripping.
Made some more rip cuts and I observed the timber slide along the fence for the first part of its travel and then the centre part of the timber being cut came off the fence by around a mil. And then using the push stick and correcting pressure I got it back to the fence for the last portion of the timber.
Finally I got the timber to cut to half a mil. oversize which at the present time is acceptable to me because I always clean up the cut and size on the thicknesser.
Requesting help from those who have made a sled for their tablesaw.
I want to tilt the blade to 45% and run the sled through the blade. Is there any reason why this is a no,no. ?
I know I could also cut my mitre upright upto 3” (75mm) but that is a very deep mitre to get cut accurately.
Looking at the Freud catalogue for a rip blade there does not appear to be anything for 250mm x 30 bore x 27 teeth? The only mention of ripping seemed to be the one Martin purchased but that has 60/80 teeth.
I have got some very heavy dense timbers and I think a ripping blade would be necessary.
I’m wondering why I needed to do the above as an afterthought because if the blade cover has got tobe removed the riving knife might just as well come out as well? I’m thinking tenons and rebates.
Next to get the fence to read zero I had to remove around 15mm from the front end of the rail, I couldn’t move the bracket on the fence any further over, otherwise I would have had an L bracket and not a T bracket, fence to rail! And the Tape measure is glued on.
Next job was sorting out the ruler reader dial, the red line is useless so I turned the plastic magnifier 90% and used a bit of masking tape to give me the read off on the ruler. ( the piece of timber laying there was to get my camera exposure meter to focus)
Dropped the rear table level down so that wooden guides can slide off the end of table, but in the meantime a temporary ply sheet ( from Axminster packing) brings up level required for ripping.
Made some more rip cuts and I observed the timber slide along the fence for the first part of its travel and then the centre part of the timber being cut came off the fence by around a mil. And then using the push stick and correcting pressure I got it back to the fence for the last portion of the timber.
Finally I got the timber to cut to half a mil. oversize which at the present time is acceptable to me because I always clean up the cut and size on the thicknesser.
Requesting help from those who have made a sled for their tablesaw.
I want to tilt the blade to 45% and run the sled through the blade. Is there any reason why this is a no,no. ?
I know I could also cut my mitre upright upto 3” (75mm) but that is a very deep mitre to get cut accurately.
Looking at the Freud catalogue for a rip blade there does not appear to be anything for 250mm x 30 bore x 27 teeth? The only mention of ripping seemed to be the one Martin purchased but that has 60/80 teeth.
I have got some very heavy dense timbers and I think a ripping blade would be necessary.
motownmartin
Established Member
DW, I bought my blade from screwfix £29.99 you might get it cheaper elsewhere but I had other stuff to buy, it's ideal for ripping and cross cutting, it's made one hell of a difference, I can rip pieces at least twice or maybe 3 times quicker.
devonwoody
Established Member
Thanks Martin, thats a lot cheaper than a catalogue price I've seen.
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