Cabinet scrapers

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Surprised me too. Here are a couple of people who have had a similar experience:

two-cherries-burnisher-t31667.html

If you look at the review of the Kirschen (on the Axminster site) there is a chap stating exactly the same: it marks, even with light pressure.
 
A straight carbon tool steel hardened right out and given a minimal temper would be harder than most grades of HSS, but brittle - wouldn't do to drop it on a concrete floor. The advantage of HSS over carbon steel is it's ability to hold a cutting edge at higher temperatures, such as those attained when metal-cutting. That's not really a relevant property for a burnisher.

Good burnishers would be polished carbide (very hard but brittle), or hardened carbon tool steel with minimum tempering (not quite as hard, still brittle). HSS would be a 'second choice' for hardness, but wouldn't be quite as brittle. Such things as gouges may work quite well, screwdrivers are not hard enough by quite a lot. An old good quality round file with the teeth ground off and then polished would make an excellent burnisher for anyone prepared to expend that much effort.
 
A file may not be that much hard work. Look at the Glen Drake File/Burnisher on Bugbears Classic handtools link. It appears to be a very fine file (70 tpi) with just the edge that is highly polished, a 2 in 1 tool.
 
For the past few years Lie Nielsen, Veritas and others have been offering scrapers that are much, much harder than the traditional ones, which approximated to the moderate hardness you'd find in a typical western traditional handsaw.

I've tried both, and after an initial burst of enthusiasm for the new ultra-hard scrapers I find myself drifting back to the traditional ones. The new style need more effort to prepare, ideally with a carbide rod as a burnisher and a course diamond stone to remove the old hook rather than a file. Yes, they do last longer, but I'm not convinced that they cut quite as finely (although this could be a by product of the more difficult preparation).

There's also now a much greater variation in available scraper thickness, which presents woodworkers with yet another set of decisions!

It's not a hard and fast rule, but I find myself tending to use thicker, harder scrapers for heavier work and when the scraper is secured in a holder (such as the basic Veritas holder), and thinner, softer scrapers hand-held for delicate tasks (such as flattening stringing and inlay).

I learned how to use a scraper from Bruce Luckhurst, who emphasised a great range of scraper preparation depending on the task in hand. One technique of his that I regularly use is to prepare a traditional scraper with the lightest imaginable single stroke of the burnisher. It seems impossible that this single delicate stroke could possibly turn a hook, but that's exactly what it does, and furthermore it's the perfect hook for levelling inlay (which unfortunately is sometimes "spongy" and difficult to flatten without tear-out).
 
custard":3584e74z said:
For the past few years Lie Nielsen, Veritas and others have been offering scrapers that are much, much harder than the traditional ones, which approximated to the moderate hardness you'd find in a typical western traditional handsaw.

I've tried both, and after an initial burst of enthusiasm for the new ultra-hard scrapers I find myself drifting back to the traditional ones. The new style need more effort to prepare, ideally with a carbide rod as a burnisher and a course diamond stone to remove the old hook rather than a file. Yes, they do last longer, but I'm not convinced that they cut quite as finely (although this could be a by product of the more difficult preparation).

There's also now a much greater variation in available scraper thickness, which presents woodworkers with yet another set of decisions!

It's not a hard and fast rule, but I find myself tending to use thicker, harder scrapers for heavier work and when the scraper is secured in a holder (such as the basic Veritas holder), and thinner, softer scrapers hand-held for delicate tasks (such as flattening stringing and inlay).

I learned how to use a scraper from Bruce Luckhurst, who emphasised a great range of scraper preparation depending on the task in hand. One technique of his that I regularly use is to prepare a traditional scraper with the lightest imaginable single stroke of the burnisher. It seems impossible that this single delicate stroke could possibly turn a hook, but that's exactly what it does, and furthermore it's the perfect hook for levelling inlay (which unfortunately is sometimes "spongy" and difficult to flatten without tear-out).

Wow!

That's a really useful post, thank you.

I use a cabinet scraper, but not often enough to have a good consistent system going. I was wondering about my varying degrees of success ("when it's good, it's really good... etc."), and you've given me heart.

Many thanks,

E.
 
Hello,

I've tried the Veritas hard scrapers too and though they are OK I still prefer ones made by Bacho (used to be Branded Sandvik). They are a good size, do not take ages to prep (sides polished) and are relatively easy to file with a mill file, stone and burnish.

Mike.
 
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