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joiner_sim

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Hi everyone,

Earlier this year I went from making money out of building windows and doors to earning my money from making furniture and kitchens. Obviously, my tool kit was more setup for building windows and doors and I do get by with these tools, however I am now starting to look at new tools to aid me in my new line of work.

So, I've had a look on the axminister site for a few tools I think I need, and I would like your opinions on the items I'm linking to and any suggestions of alternatives, thanks for any input. :D

Mitre Clamp - I plan to use this to hold sheet material 18mm thick, while I screw it together (butt jointed), will it work? And will it allow me to create a small step when required for example working with 2mm rounded-over edge banding? http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-mitre-clamp-prod32231/

Kregg Mini Kit Pocket Hole Jig - Now I understand theres a £32 version that looks much better, but surely this does exactly the same job? I will want to use it for primarily 18mm sheet material, but could use it in thicker stuff too. http://www.axminster.co.uk/kreg-kreg-mini-kit-pocket-hole-jig-prod22519/

Edge Banding Trimmer - I currently use a chisel to finish off the edge banding done on the machine. What I want to know is does this tool give a flush finish or is it not worth the both and stick to the chisel? http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-edge-banding-trimmer-prod576751/
 
joiner_sim":jrz3kp6z said:
.....

Kregg Mini Kit Pocket Hole Jig - Now I understand theres a £32 version that looks much better, but surely this does exactly the same job? I will want to use it for primarily 18mm sheet material, but could use it in thicker stuff too. http://www.axminster.co.uk/kreg-kreg-mini-kit-pocket-hole-jig-prod22519/
...

This came with the £99 kit that I bought. I've never used it. The one time that I wanted to, it was a pain in the butt.
 
I have the edge trimmer and it does get it flush, provided you apply an even pressure, and its just on the thinner melamine. You have to be really careful if you are using veneer tape tho, and whatever one you are using will need sanding after.
 
Simon, in my opinion, you don't need any of these tools.
I do the same line of work as you (except I am the 'specials' department - I make all the curved, laminated and out of the ordinary things for the kitchens we make), and the only one of those tools I use is the pocket hole jig (albeit the bigger one).
A sharp chisel is, IMHO a far better tool for trimming the edging, or even a spare block plane blade laid flat on the panel and used as a paring chisel.
The mitre clamp you can make out of scrap and some G-clamps. Much more versatile then.
Save your money for now till you know what you need (or should I say want?).

All the best.

Adam.

P.S. How's it going in the new job?
 
I'm of the same oppinion as Adam, I make plenty of carcases and don't really use any.

1. Carcases can be assembled on the bench without angle clamps, a long F clamp will hold two sides to a base/top better than a corner clamp will hold things. Do all your edgebanding before assembly then you don't need to leave a step. If you do want something to clamp up corners then cut an "L" from some 25mm MDF about 50mm wide and 300mm long each leg, you can then clamp this with quickgrip clamps

2. A pocket jig is useful but I find biscuits and carcase screws quicker, stronger and the biscuits align the work hence no corner clamps. I have a Kreg set which has a bench mounted guide (K4) far quicker than a mini one, keep those for on site or if you forget a hole once the carcase has been assembled.

3. While the edge trimmers are OK on melamine they don't work well on real wood iron on edging or 2mm PVC, I use a Veritas flush plane which is basically a blockplane iron with a handle, wide chisel will do the same.

Jason
 
RogerS":1a0lb5u3 said:
joiner_sim":1a0lb5u3 said:
.....

Kregg Mini Kit Pocket Hole Jig - Now I understand theres a £32 version that looks much better, but surely this does exactly the same job? I will want to use it for primarily 18mm sheet material, but could use it in thicker stuff too. http://www.axminster.co.uk/kreg-kreg-mini-kit-pocket-hole-jig-prod22519/
...

This came with the £99 kit that I bought. I've never used it. The one time that I wanted to, it was a pain in the butt.

I got one with my kit too. The first time I used it I was not impressed, but after experimenting I found that provided it was very firmly clamped in place it was fine.

Misterfish
 
misterfish":2e6wo7f4 said:
RogerS":2e6wo7f4 said:
joiner_sim":2e6wo7f4 said:
.....

Kregg Mini Kit Pocket Hole Jig - Now I understand theres a £32 version that looks much better, but surely this does exactly the same job? I will want to use it for primarily 18mm sheet material, but could use it in thicker stuff too. http://www.axminster.co.uk/kreg-kreg-mini-kit-pocket-hole-jig-prod22519/
...

This came with the £99 kit that I bought. I've never used it. The one time that I wanted to, it was a pain in the butt.

I got one with my kit too. The first time I used it I was not impressed, but after experimenting I found that provided it was very firmly clamped in place it was fine.

Misterfish

I agree...but, for me, it's too much faffing about. Especially if one was going to rely on it, day-in-day-out.
 
Hi Simon

Those edge trimmers are a bit rubbish really. A much better finish can be achieved on the router table or for larger items knock yourself up something like this. Works great with 2mm edgeing.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/edge ... 39497.html

I like pocket screws but that jig is really only for very occasional use when you can't get to it with the bigger jigs.

Never used a mitre clamp, I like dominos locate and pocket hole screws to clamp whilst the glue sets.

Hope things are going well for you and you are enjoying yourself. Simon
 
Thanks for all the advice.

Have been doing this type of work since February, so I do know that I need these tools.

However, I think I will stick to my chisel for trimming edge banding.

The Kregg pocket hole jig, I think I will invest in the £32 kit instead as it sounds like the mini one is just no good.

The mitre clamp, I think I will still buy as it will help me to align the carcasses well, when trying to get that first screw in. I do edge band before assembly. The step is there somtimes, especially when working with 2mm edging as we round it over on the machine.
 
Simon

If you can spring for the extra then I'd go for the more expensive kit. Although I agree that the jig in the £32 is streets ahead of the mini jig, when you look at what you get for your extra money looks to be the plastic box!

Not sure if you've used Kregs but I do find it needs very good clamping as when you use glue and tighten up the screws, there is a tendency for the screw to slide the two pieces of stock relative to each other and so clamps are essential.
 
joiner_sim":3lpx1j08 said:
The mitre clamp, I think I will still buy as it will help me to align the carcasses well, .

Your dowels/biscuits/dominos should be doing the alignment if you are just using screws your carcases will be very weak.

Jason
 
jasonB":3gtru2yo said:
joiner_sim":3gtru2yo said:
The mitre clamp, I think I will still buy as it will help me to align the carcasses well, .

Your dowels/biscuits/dominos should be doing the alignment if you are just using screws your carcases will be very weak.

Jason

I do use dowels, but generally only when the side is going to be seen. If the carcass is made up using only dowels, then it goes thru a huge carcass press, like this one:
ramarch_6.jpg


I use screws on their own to build carcasses when it is a bespoke job, and this is when I have to set out the job myself on the bench, rather than the too-easy CNC way.
 
Simon, I'm not sure I get what you're saying here
joiner_sim":2464frh7 said:
The mitre clamp, I think I will still buy as it will help me to align the carcasses well, when trying to get that first screw in.


Are you proposing to use this to hold a carcase together whilst you assemble it?

Adam.
 
I think he is and can't see it working.

Pocket hole screws tend to pull the boards as the screws are angled, even with one of these mitre clamps at each end of a 570mm carcase the middle will flex particularly as he is not using any form of biscuit/dowel etc for alignment and strength.

Jason
 
jasonB":2r3t1z00 said:
I think he is and can't see it working.

Pocket hole screws tend to pull the boards as the screws are angled, even with one of these mitre clamps at each end of a 570mm carcase the middle will flex particularly as he is not using any form of biscuit/dowel etc for alignment and strength.

Jason
Couldn't agree more Jason.

Adam.
 
I know bespoke gets banded around a lot these days but screwing mfc together with no alignment dowels/dominoes/biscuits is more bodge than bespoke. Why not do the job properley?

Surely your employer should make sure you have the right tools to do the job to spec rather than you having to buy them yourself.

cheers

jon
 
If Sim is working for a company that makes large quantities of carcases which it sounds like by the machines I would think "bespoke" refers to any non standard size carcase rather than the Bespoke individual kitchens the rest of us make.

Still can't work out why you need to leave a 2mm offset when you assemble the carcase. do you then take it apart to edge band?

Jason
 
When I say bespoke, I mean bespoke. Yes, we do mass produce if we get the work, but alot of it, is one-off kitchens, bedrooms and furniture.

The 2mm offset, that I am referring to is a job I did last week, where we used 2mm thick edge banding that was rounded over, rather then being left square.
 

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