Cab I have a poll?

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I've read somewhere recently on here abaout someone with a Felder. Guess they are "right" but of course, it comes with a price tag to match.

I hope you get this sorted.

Cheers
Steve
 
You also need to consider how it was handled between factory & you.

A third part carrier could easily give the saw a bump that may knock the blade assembly out of line or lift a planner by the tables etc.

Did the saw come direct from the importer or was it double handles by your supplier?

Jason
 
John, Sorry to here you are still having trouble with supplied equipment being "not fit for purpose" to the standard expected at the price level.

Having said that about price point even a very cheap table saw with a slot/blade alignment error can be a serious hazard.

I am becoming more and more disillusioned about the lack of 'finish' to supplied equipment regardless of price point. I realise that the members of any wood forum are more likely to voice criticism of defects/poor setup etc. but it does seem to be a trend.

I am used to receiving large (very large up to 60 tons) equipment and having to set it up (fettle it as many here would say) but that is to be expected with the risks of transport knocks etc. but the lack of readily adjustable alignment ability on guides, tables arbores etc. points to either very poor initial design or a production cost cutting move to far in the initial assembly.
This latter can occur via not enough quality control, be it at the original designer/manufacturer or at the lower tendering subcontractor.

On most of the engineering equipment, regardless of source, that I handled it came with check lists for alignment and pointers to adjustment methods if they were not established industry practice. A jig-bore or co-ordinated measuring machine is never going to arrive accurate, (try proving that it is measuring within a couple of microns when it's zone tolerance can be just that dependant on temperature) but the slots in something like a table saw are a no brainer, at the worst they should require just a tweak on an adjustment screw not the fileing of slots as I had to do.

Being in the market for equipment myself (in the low hundreds price point) leaves me with misgivings as to the state of finish supplied. Needless to say if I can't get satisfactory answers/views of the innards at the next round of shows the short listed items will drop of the list.

Rant over: I feel better, sorry it will not help your problems though; hope you can get a satisfactory resolution.
 
DW
I have been very happy with my, wait for it, Xcaliber. As you know, I love my saw-1930's technology, huge lumps of cast iron BUT precisely made and does what it says on the can.
I think you have found out what I have been harping on for for a while. Most of the "hobby" saws available are just that. They are not made to high enough standards to satisfy the "keen amatuer".
I don't have the sliding table with mine (although it is available) but I and many other forum users have been satisfied with their Xcaliber saws. Maybe you might want to take a closer look.
See, it wasn't just the cast iron top thingy we were moaning about after all.......... :wink:
Cheers
Philly :D
 
I upgraded my tablesaw recently, and went for an OP201 from Southern Woodwork Machinery after the excellent review in F&CM. I have to say it required no fettling whatsoever - just unpacking from the crate and about an hour's worth of assembly from very clear instructions. What's more, the mitre gauge slots and blade were all parallell 'out of the box'.

So some manufacturers clearly can do it.

BTW, would there be any interest in a review of this saw? I took piccies while I was assembling it (sad I know...)

Cheers

RP
 
DW
Sorry to hear that you are still having troubles, you had such a smile on your face at the Yandles show :D . I changed my table saw this year and purchased the SIP 10" CI one. Lower end of the price market may be taking a chance but I must admit being an engineer by trade I am impressed with the quality of it. Took some assembly time but the slots are all square and the fence is rock solid and square. Maybe I was just lucky :?: but good luck on your quest.

Les
 
DW

Just hang on a minute and reflect before you come to the conclusion you've bought the wrong saw. This saw has an awful lot going for it which are the reasons why you bought it.

It has a good balance between weight and ability to move it around
First class motor
Flat toothed belt dead smooth running
folding extension table to save space
beautifully smooth sliding table
The slots themselves that are machined in the top are accurate to 1 thou with each other and dead straight

The only thing (I think) you're upset about, which I also was, is that it's not set up right. OK so take of the front panel, slide underneath with socket set and extension undo the 4 bolts that hold the assembly in place and adjust it. It helps to have someone lever from above while you tighten. It's impossible to make it worse just hard to get it right. When you get that right, you can play with the sliding table, which also will take ages to get right. I made a crude sled with digital micrometer.

If you've got yourself to the point of regretting your purchase though you may be at the point of not wanting to play any more. If you do decide to go for a monster like Philly's P.M me I may give you a lead on getting a much better price from a company I just bought my bandsaw from. I'll say it again though, it's fixable.

Cheers Alan
 
I've done some nice work with the saw over the weekend.: Cut some
t & g's minitures for dividers for that embroidery case made earlier this year.
Blade is nice and smooth, got used to the fence settings (by adjusting the magnified viewer to actually set the measure to that was cut by the saw)
Sliding carriage is a dream and riving knife sets 2mm below the top of blade so all those naughty cuts can be done. Dust extraction much to my surprise worked very well just using the RSDE1 from Record.

So will settle down with the saw but when I come to jigging I might find a way to set compensation settings to the blade.

(By the way the mitre fence was worse than my previous model for slop)

Any other owners of this saw found ways of correcting this? also clamping timber being cut, when using this fence and also the sliding carriage.

LOOKS LIKE ONLY SCHEPPACH SAW BLADES CAN BE USED. THERE ARE TWO DRIVE PIN HOLES TO THE BLADE IN ADDITION TO THE 30mm BORE
 
LOOKS LIKE ONLY SCHEPPACH SAW BLADES CAN BE USED. THERE ARE TWO DRIVE PIN HOLES TO THE BLADE IN ADDITION TO THE 30mm BORE

These pins are hardened sprung steel. It's very simple to put the washer on a vice and drift them out (save them to drift in again if req). I agree the provided mitre gauge is a joke. I have acquired a tenoning jig so will have to solve this one as the slots are non standard. One or two options, brass strip glued to hardwood is one thought, will probably get a friend to machine a bit of tool steel though. Shame you don't live closer I'd come and set it up for you.

Cheers Alan
 
I have to agree with Philly on this one the Xcalibur range of table saws are pretty much spot on out of the box.

After watching this video on the Fine woodworking site on setting up your contractors saw i had the oppitunity to borrow a DTI gauge and do a few checks myself.

I've got to say i was impressed with the fact that all the things mentioned and tested in the video where well within tolerances and required no further adjustment.

I've got to say for a saw that costs just over £500 you could do a lot worse.

So in answer to your question DW.......yes you should expect a saw to be accurate to agreed tolerances.

Cheers
 
Woody Alan":u0nph3l1 said:
LOOKS LIKE ONLY SCHEPPACH SAW BLADES CAN BE USED. THERE ARE TWO DRIVE PIN HOLES TO THE BLADE IN ADDITION TO THE 30mm BORE

These pins are hardened sprung steel. It's very simple to put the washer on a vice and drift them out (save them to drift in again if req). I agree the provided mitre gauge is a joke. I have acquired a tenoning jig so will have to solve this one as the slots are non standard. One or two options, brass strip glued to hardwood is one thought, will probably get a friend to machine a bit of tool steel though. Shame you don't live closer I'd come and set it up for you.

Cheers Alan

Oddly enough I am expecting to be in Swaffham in around 10 days time.
 
devonwoody":5yiufa2i said:
Oddly enough I am expecting to be in Swaffham in around 10 days time.

Bet the dog won't move over to make room for the saw though. :lol: Looks like you you could do with a trailer fitted with a tail lift John :p

Good news is it appears that it is readily fixable with the attachment bolts though.
 
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