Buying Sawn Timber + Planer Thicknesser V Planed Timber

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ziplock9000

Established Member
Joined
13 Mar 2024
Messages
33
Reaction score
6
Location
Tyneside
I currently buy planed redwood timber that I glue together to make backing boards for plaques. It works out about to be £26.40 for 4.8m delivered.

I was thinking about buying a very cheap planer/thicknesser for £160 ish and then buying sawn timber and doing the planing myself.

I was expecting this to be cheaper overall, but it doesn't seem to be the case.

Just buying planed directly seems to be cheaper.

I've even looked for odd wood (like scaffold board etc) on Facebook Marketplace that I could plane and it's again, more expensive.

Is this the general consensus for planed softwood like redwood?
 
All depends upon the task in hand, redwood can be fine for many jobs but check it for both squareness and sizes. For other jobs using more exotic wood then having a decent P/T can help but again access to a decent wood supplier can be just as easy if they can provide the wood needed to the size you want.

Size can be a factor unless you can work with the off the shelf sizes, once you need odd sizes t get the look then having a P/T would be very handy but buying a cheap one could just give more issues than you had before as they do not just work out of the box as many have found.
 
I use junk wood for a lot of my projects, even when I buy PAR wood I have to resize.
After hand planning for 30 plus years I bought a p/t ..brill
As other said there are the neg sides
Eg I was working some junk wood, religiously removed the nails....rechecked ok
Odd noise as the wood went through.... there was stones embedded in the wood.. notched the blade in a number of places
A lot more expense and agro to sort the p/t than if I had been using a hand tool.
I had to hand plane the final 2 mm to take the ridges out.
 

Attachments

  • CA4F83F0-620A-4A8F-88D3-41994F926159.jpeg
    CA4F83F0-620A-4A8F-88D3-41994F926159.jpeg
    2.8 MB
  • 831F39AE-C2BF-443A-A7A6-5C76C35C4E60.jpeg
    831F39AE-C2BF-443A-A7A6-5C76C35C4E60.jpeg
    4.4 MB
  • 51B4C55B-A422-4AFF-A4BF-A26072347A81.jpeg
    51B4C55B-A422-4AFF-A4BF-A26072347A81.jpeg
    719.7 KB
  • 5DF91F01-2DAA-4084-A1A1-1B9D9DFC7EDA.jpeg
    5DF91F01-2DAA-4084-A1A1-1B9D9DFC7EDA.jpeg
    963.3 KB
While notched baldes are a bug&#ration there is a quick fix if the blades are still sharp. Move the blades sideways a bit so the notches no longer line up. No more ridges.
To the OPs question. A planer/thicknesser can be very handy and save a lot of the grunt work sizing timber. It gives you the freedom to size wood as you like rather than being restricted to the size of wood available at the store. Recycle wood as well but as said above be careful what you put through. Lastly picking the cheapest machine out there may be a bit of a gamble as to how long it will last. Check warranty and those sorts of things.
Regards
John
 
Slight word of caution on buying cheap planers thicknesses. I bought the Rutland one. Pretty hopeless for anything over 1000mm in length, struggles with hardwood, and died in a plume of smoke after about a month (to be fair, probably user error - trying to take off too much of an old oak board in one pass). Invested in one of the bigger Axminster machines, so much better (as it should be a 4 times. the price). As my mother used to say "buy cheap buy dear"!!
 
While notched baldes are a bug&#ration there is a quick fix if the blades are still sharp. Move the blades sideways a bit so the notches no longer line up. No more ridges.
To the OPs question. A planer/thicknesser can be very handy and save a lot of the grunt work sizing timber. It gives you the freedom to size wood as you like rather than being restricted to the size of wood available at the store. Recycle wood as well but as said above be careful what you put through. Lastly picking the cheapest machine out there may be a bit of a gamble as to how long it will last. Check warranty and those sorts of things.
Regards
John
While I understand that and can see how it's useful, I'd only be purchasing one to reduce my costs as a small business that needs softwood plaques. I'd only be getting it to replace getting pre-planed softwood timber so that extra utility will likely be lost on me for now. My usual methodology is to get a very cheap machine that may break quickly to dip my toe and if all seems good, I get a much better version later on rather than getting a moderately expensive one at the start.
 
Slight word of caution on buying cheap planers thicknesses. I bought the Rutland one. Pretty hopeless for anything over 1000mm in length, struggles with hardwood, and died in a plume of smoke after about a month (to be fair, probably user error - trying to take off too much of an old oak board in one pass). Invested in one of the bigger Axminster machines, so much better (as it should be a 4 times. the price). As my mother used to say "buy cheap buy dear"!!
Yeah I've heard a lot of bad stories about Rutland gear in general, but their work yard table saw is terrible from reviews and very dangerous!
The very cheap one I've been looking at has reasonable reviews for the price, so that's not a concern for me. It's just if it's even worth doing at all replacing the pre-planed timber I order with sawn timber +planer.
 
I've never found bought in planed redwood very dry. You pay a lot more for some planed timber that promptly moves and then you have to plane it flat!
 
I've never found bought in planed redwood very dry. You pay a lot more for some planed timber that promptly moves and then you have to plane it flat!
I get mine from a company that begins with a H... And it's cheaper than the sawn wood + planer. It does move, but not enough to be an issue when I glue up and let it climatise. It's very rare that it's too much to be used. I don't do any additional planing.
 
Back
Top