Building a router table, MOF001 or TRA001
- Thread starter Sheptonphil
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Thanks mike, thats good to know.
I'm currently considering building my router table into the out feed table of my table saw to avoid having more tables cluttering up the workshop. I'm thinking of something similar to what matt's done but I would prefer a cast table as I really like using the magnetic feather boards.
Having said that I have been drooling over the jess em stock guides for the tablesaw, which would make the feathboards redundant. I could use the stock guides on the router table as well, further convincing myself to buy them
I guess if I don't buy the cast iron router table (just use a sheet of ply or MDF instead) then it would pay for the jess em stock guides and leave me some money leftover. ooohhh i've almost talked myself into it ha ha
I'm currently considering building my router table into the out feed table of my table saw to avoid having more tables cluttering up the workshop. I'm thinking of something similar to what matt's done but I would prefer a cast table as I really like using the magnetic feather boards.
Having said that I have been drooling over the jess em stock guides for the tablesaw, which would make the feathboards redundant. I could use the stock guides on the router table as well, further convincing myself to buy them
I guess if I don't buy the cast iron router table (just use a sheet of ply or MDF instead) then it would pay for the jess em stock guides and leave me some money leftover. ooohhh i've almost talked myself into it ha ha
Adam
I have just bought the JessEm stock guides for my router table, they are an impressive piece of engineering, haven't had a chance to use them yet, but they are nice enough to make me seriously consider the table saw guides as well.
You could fit a propriatary router table top at the end of your saw bench, positioned at ninty degrees from the saw to anable one of the above fence's to fit, just slide off the fence to use the full width of the now extended bench.
As an aside slightly, when I contacted Peter Sefton I mentioned my problems with Arthritus in my hands, especially my thumbs, he sent me a gravity push block free of charge to try, he also gave me a full refund on a bit of kit I bought over two years ago than I also mentioned I could not get on with, now that is impressive customer care.
Mike
I have just bought the JessEm stock guides for my router table, they are an impressive piece of engineering, haven't had a chance to use them yet, but they are nice enough to make me seriously consider the table saw guides as well.
You could fit a propriatary router table top at the end of your saw bench, positioned at ninty degrees from the saw to anable one of the above fence's to fit, just slide off the fence to use the full width of the now extended bench.
As an aside slightly, when I contacted Peter Sefton I mentioned my problems with Arthritus in my hands, especially my thumbs, he sent me a gravity push block free of charge to try, he also gave me a full refund on a bit of kit I bought over two years ago than I also mentioned I could not get on with, now that is impressive customer care.
Mike
Thats interesting to hear. I don't know of many people over this side of the pond that have the jess em stock guides so i'll be interested to hear how you find them in use.
I'm thinking of plonking the router insert pretty close to the back of the table saw and orientate it such that the feed direction is the same as for the saw. The reason being I could use the table saw fence (and table) as additional support for feeding long work pieces into the router and still have enough out feed after the router so that I can process long enough pieces.
Because my workshop is essentially long and narrow, all my lengthy work has to be done in line with the long dimension of the workshop. It works ok but does take some thinking about when arranging machinery etc.
The jess em guides are becoming more and more tempting though...
I'm thinking of plonking the router insert pretty close to the back of the table saw and orientate it such that the feed direction is the same as for the saw. The reason being I could use the table saw fence (and table) as additional support for feeding long work pieces into the router and still have enough out feed after the router so that I can process long enough pieces.
Because my workshop is essentially long and narrow, all my lengthy work has to be done in line with the long dimension of the workshop. It works ok but does take some thinking about when arranging machinery etc.
The jess em guides are becoming more and more tempting though...
Another thought, if you positioned the router table at the back of the saw table, then it would act as an outfeed for the saw and having the router table there the saw table would act as an outfeed for the router table, just need access to both ends, many ways to skin the feline as the saying goes.
Mike
Mike
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Now this is getting sillyMikeJhn":2xa085w6 said:
I resisted the urge to follow those links, but then thought that if I only looked with one eye I could avoid temptation. You just can't unsee some things, now my max £300 budget is screaming to be streeeeeched to £400+, I'm so week willed.
Still, with Santa coming soon, anything is possible. :ho2
Phil
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Does the Triton go NVR when changing bits, as it would really need to be able to be switched remotely if a dust collection box is to be built around router.Adam9453":1kaw703f said:
Phil
You haven't finished yet, next you have to get a pair of these: https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/produ ... ock-guides :twisted:
Mike
Mike
The Triton does not go NVR when switched off, but to change bits you do need access to it to switch off then put the cover on the switch, after changing bits, you have to slide the cover off and then switch it back on, this obviously is to engage/disingage the spindle lock.
Mike
Mike
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
MikeJhn":31h2fvbl said:
Hi Mike
No, not obvious, I thought, naively, that as you wound it to the top of travel it switched off and engaged the spindle lock, then when wound down it would release spindly lock and power on. There seems little benefit in above table bit change if you need to get to the router to turn off and put switch cover on.
Phil
It's very easy in practice and doesn't hinder anything IMO.
It's an important safety feature in my opinion as it stops the router accidentally turning on while your changing bits.
Conversely if you don't have above table height adjustment it can be a real pain to dial in a precise height.
With my triton I can easily tweak the height up by miniscule amounts with the above table winder.
The main important things with a router table IMO are a nice flat top to avoid stock getting snagged or caught mid cut.
A decent solid fence that is easy to adjust especially by small amounts.
The fence sides should be co planar so stock doesn't get caught mid cut, plus ability to move sides independently for offset cuts.
Decent extraction to keep the bit clear so your cuts are clean, better finish and less dust obviously.
A powerful router with above table height adjustment and bit change.
Decent feather boards, jess em type stock guides or power feeder to maintain consistent pressure and ideally feed rate.
Get all this right and you're onto a winner
It's an important safety feature in my opinion as it stops the router accidentally turning on while your changing bits.
Conversely if you don't have above table height adjustment it can be a real pain to dial in a precise height.
With my triton I can easily tweak the height up by miniscule amounts with the above table winder.
The main important things with a router table IMO are a nice flat top to avoid stock getting snagged or caught mid cut.
A decent solid fence that is easy to adjust especially by small amounts.
The fence sides should be co planar so stock doesn't get caught mid cut, plus ability to move sides independently for offset cuts.
Decent extraction to keep the bit clear so your cuts are clean, better finish and less dust obviously.
A powerful router with above table height adjustment and bit change.
Decent feather boards, jess em type stock guides or power feeder to maintain consistent pressure and ideally feed rate.
Get all this right and you're onto a winner
But considering you should unplug the hitachi when changing bits, it's quicker on the triton to just flick the switch which locks off when the spindle lock engages.MikeJhn":18urqtvr said:
If you don't unplug your router during bit changes then yes a collet extension is the quickest.
I'd always say you need to isolate the tool though as it's just too easy for an accident to happen and lose fingers or worse.
The Triton switch lock can quite easily be removed according to this instruction http://www.thewoodnerd.com/tips/tritonInterlock.html. First thing I did when I got my TRA001.
Just make sure to not start the router when in top/locked position. I don't see this as a problem, the collet is above the table and there's no insert plate when changing bits, so why should you start it in this position, there's no cut possible at this cutter height anyway.
One flaw with the Triton in table is that the height winding rod easily interferes with dust collection hose if you have this attached to the router base under the table (which you might have when doing grooves etc).
Just make sure to not start the router when in top/locked position. I don't see this as a problem, the collet is above the table and there's no insert plate when changing bits, so why should you start it in this position, there's no cut possible at this cutter height anyway.
One flaw with the Triton in table is that the height winding rod easily interferes with dust collection hose if you have this attached to the router base under the table (which you might have when doing grooves etc).
paulrockliffe
Established Member
When it's in the table you would usually remove the dust extraction from the base and put a proper extractor onto the table housing so that that isn't a problem.
"Usually"? A quick search on router tables (commercial as well as shop made) shows only a small fraction are enclosed cabinets....and everybody hanging routers on the end of their table saws, should they build a cabinet around it? I stand my point that extraction from below the table is a design miss on the Triton.
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