richarddownunder
Established Member
Vann":1kdodudq said:
Hey Vann
As a gatherer of rusty planes, I'm not sure it fits your requirements anyhow, brass won't rust (maybe tarnishing a little is the best you could hope for) :wink:
Cheers
Richard
British Low Angle Block Plane
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Hey Vann
As a gatherer of rusty planes, I'm not sure it fits your requirements anyhow, brass won't rust (maybe tarnishing a little is the best you could hope for) :wink:
Cheers
Richard
Sorry to say it but I'm not sure about that Bubinga cap. To my eye it has a look of . . . . just being plonked there, almost an after thought. Perhaps it's due to the photo and it looks better in real life.
I think it needs a more sculpted look, a bit of a scoop rather than that more rigid looking wedge shape. Nothing too drastic, just a subtle change. No idea if that will interfere with things on a technical level, I can't think why it would. I do like the overall idea of the wood cap though. I think it's a nice touch.
I think it needs a more sculpted look, a bit of a scoop rather than that more rigid looking wedge shape. Nothing too drastic, just a subtle change. No idea if that will interfere with things on a technical level, I can't think why it would. I do like the overall idea of the wood cap though. I think it's a nice touch.
Vann
Established Member
Signature corrected :mrgreen:richarddownunder":2bdf0g61 said:
Cheers, Vann.
PAC1":2kfkxgne said:
I'm sure you can, probably something I would do but a lot of folk might not be keen to do that considering the price. Actually it's more for the aesthetics rather than the feel in the hand. I don't think that the section I'm referring to comes into contact with the hand. More like a Stanley block plane cap but not as dramatic.
Tony Zaffuto
Established Member
MIGNAL":tuzcbi0f said:
I have to agree with your comment about the cap. However, we are woodworkers and I figure to buy one of these when they hit the US shores. If I don't like the feel of the cap (after all, that's the important part), I will re-shape it so it feels good.
On another note, I like the dimples on original Stanley 60-1/2. But, when I ordered a LV low angle about a decade or so ago, I requested a "special" and Rob Lee sent me one without the three dimples on each side. To me, that plane looks much more handsome, and I've never dropped it!
In closing, I'm wishing the absolute best for Thomas Flinn and Clifton! My Clifton #3 is my favorite smoother. My Pax 14" sash saw is one of my favorite backsaws.
richarddownunder
Established Member
Vann":1vls6kyt said:
Nice! Looks like it might fit the bill after all :lol:
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Sorry for the slow reply 
Had a great open day followed by a short holiday and have had my head down with short courses since then. My demo plane ended going back to Sheffield in the melee after the open day. I don't have my demo plane back yet so my input is from memory and Clifton's info not my detailed inspection.
Clifton pushed a couple of planes through the production process ready for my open day but they now have them ready for despatch.
So my initial thoughts and feedback. This is not a full review I will leave that for others.
The planes are a hefty .98 kilos which suits me, with a Bronze body and brass fitting which are set off with a Bubinga cap which I love! Great detailing. It's a low angle 12 degrees with a Cryo treated O1 steel blade 3.4mm thick which takes a great edge. It's 162mm long and is 50mm giving a 1 5/8" blade.
m https://www.facebook.com/cliftonplanes/ ... =1&theater m
Behind the mouth has been milled to keep the blade snug in place which offers good lateral adjustment with the Noris style adjuster. This seemed precise with little backlash and positive blade adjustment. The cap iron tension screw was well finished and fitted snuggly below the Bubinga cap but was easy accessed to adjust.
I gave some feedback at the design stage which included the possible inclusion of side thumb dimples. We discussed the shaping of the low profile Bubinga cap I found a great fit in my hand. The tight tolerance between blade width and body at the mouth were inline with my feedback from the prototype design stage, so 2 out of 3 wishes can't be bad.
I am really pleased Katie and the guys are moving forward with new production of tools in Sheffield and hope this is a sign of things to come! I hope others enjoy using the plane as I did in the brief time it was in my sticky mitts.
Cheers Peter
Had a great open day followed by a short holiday and have had my head down with short courses since then. My demo plane ended going back to Sheffield in the melee after the open day. I don't have my demo plane back yet so my input is from memory and Clifton's info not my detailed inspection.
Clifton pushed a couple of planes through the production process ready for my open day but they now have them ready for despatch.
So my initial thoughts and feedback. This is not a full review I will leave that for others.
The planes are a hefty .98 kilos which suits me, with a Bronze body and brass fitting which are set off with a Bubinga cap which I love! Great detailing. It's a low angle 12 degrees with a Cryo treated O1 steel blade 3.4mm thick which takes a great edge. It's 162mm long and is 50mm giving a 1 5/8" blade.
m https://www.facebook.com/cliftonplanes/ ... =1&theater m
Behind the mouth has been milled to keep the blade snug in place which offers good lateral adjustment with the Noris style adjuster. This seemed precise with little backlash and positive blade adjustment. The cap iron tension screw was well finished and fitted snuggly below the Bubinga cap but was easy accessed to adjust.
I gave some feedback at the design stage which included the possible inclusion of side thumb dimples. We discussed the shaping of the low profile Bubinga cap I found a great fit in my hand. The tight tolerance between blade width and body at the mouth were inline with my feedback from the prototype design stage, so 2 out of 3 wishes can't be bad.
I am really pleased Katie and the guys are moving forward with new production of tools in Sheffield and hope this is a sign of things to come! I hope others enjoy using the plane as I did in the brief time it was in my sticky mitts.
Cheers Peter
Mine arrived today. I have given it a quick hone but no more than that. I planed some walnut edge and end grain but need to set it up properly. A quick question should you flatten/ polish the sole as you would a steel plane?
richarddownunder
Established Member
PAC1":247706i4 said:
Isn't it flat? :shock: I'd have thought a 5-minute hone and it should be ready to tackle anything. It really shouldn't need much in the way of further setting up.
Cheers
Richard
richarddownunder
Established Member
The only brass planes I have are the ones I have made. Bronze obviously wont 'rust' but, like brass, will tarnish a little with time so if you want to keep it shiny then a bit of polish like Brasso will do the trick, but I wouldn't take to it with any sort of coarse abrasive, particularly at this early stage (and its under warranty). If it's anything like my Clifton planes, it should just all click together and be a really easy job to set up. If not, then maybe there is something wrong. Good luck and keep us posted.
Cheers
Richard
Cheers
Richard
Surely as a craftsman you look to optimise the performance of a tool rather than just taking it out of the box and using it. My thoughts were that the performance was good but can I get it working better.MIGNAL":h02ur900 said:
iNewbie
Established Member
PAC1":39aihgx9 said:
Mignal has a point. At that price point it should be perfect from the box with no faffing about - a honing to your personal pleasure, sure. Everything else should be tickety-boo.
The plane itself is excellent, but I literally took it out of the box honed the blade for 5 minutes and ran it over some walnut. I would like to polish the sole and have a play with the norris style adjuster and mouth adjustment. I would also like to properly sharpen the blade. I am sure I can get it sharper, finer set and with some polish/wax get it motoring. I like the weight and the feel in the hand.n0legs":2jng0xkg said:
The one change I wish they had made is finger depression or dimples.
Don't polish the sole, it's pointless. It will self burnish, whilst planing wood and of course it's going to pick up scratches whether you like it or not. The only way to prevent that is to put it on a shelf and not use it.
Even though these are an expensive plane they are meant to be used. You can't stop it tarnishing or picking up knocks, dings and scratches. You'll have to learn to like that lived in look, eventually.
Even though these are an expensive plane they are meant to be used. You can't stop it tarnishing or picking up knocks, dings and scratches. You'll have to learn to like that lived in look, eventually.
I only buy tools to use and all my tools get the lived in look for real as I use them. On a steel plane I would give it a rub with fine wet and dry paper and then apply some wax to make it run faster over wood. My initial thought was brasso then wax on the same basis but not sure what to do as this is my first Bronze plane, hence my question.MIGNAL":3fune52x said:
