Breadboard End Problem.

[Ollie78]

Hello all.
I have just joined this forum after finding much good information by browsing previously.
I have a specific problem with some breadboard ends.
I have made a tabletop from 6 32mm thick quarter sawn oak boards, with a mahogany inlay border, the top has gone well
and is nice and flat.
My problem is that I have applied breadboard ends using draw bored pegs (5 each end) the pegs go through the bottom but
not right through the top (if this makes sense) .
The problem is that one end seams to have gone well and pulled in tightly, however the other end has pulled in well at the centre but the ends have a 1 to 2mm gap for about 50mm each end.
Perhaps the holes on the tennon part did not have enough overlap to pull it tight enough.

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... C_1233.jpg
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... 1312473060
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... 1312473125
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... C_1235.jpg

The issue I have now is what to do about it.
I have thought about trying to drill out 5mm deep of the peg at each end, and then drilling through a smaller hole on the ouside edge of the peg and driving a small wedge in to push the breadboard end tighter. Then replacing the surface part of the peg.
Will this work?
Does anyone have a better idea?
Or I thought about just glueing it at each end and clamping it up (it pulls tight with light clamping) but I am worried about seasonal movement, hence breadboard ends in the first place.
Or clamping it then drilling a straight peg through the bottom, but same problem as above.

I really dont want to remove the end as the top is almost complete and I fear damaging the rest of the top as I have invested much time already, not to mention the expensive english oak.

Any help or suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... C_1233.jpg
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... 1312473060
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... 1312473125
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd4 ... C_1235.jpg

 

[Benchwayze]

I had a similar problem with a mitred surround, that pulled away.

I solved it by re-mitreing the corners, and then put a dovetail key across the corner (In the edge of the top) to pull the joint tight.

I drilled a blind hole from underneath and put in a dowel as back up. The table never came back a second time.

HTH

John

 

[Jacob]

BB ends are difficult and are intended for situations where board movement must be minimised e.g.drawing boards, or where movement is a hazard - kitchens and other humidity/temperature challenging situations, or lids (e.g. writing bureaux) which have no other structure keeping them flat.
You mention inlaid mahogany which suggests a style of furniture for which BB ends (and 32mm boards) would not be appropriate to start with.
So maybe live with it, bodge it or trim them off and start again.

 

[yetloh]

I agree with Jacob; if you are using quarter sawn oak there should be absolutely no need for breadboard ends. For me, the fact that seasonal variations will ensure that for most of the time they do not sit flush with the sides of the table top is another very good reason for avoiding them.

Jim

 

[Chems]

I get what your saying about the dowels your using, they aren't visible from the table top, I did the same on my first breadboard ends.

What I would do if I was you would be to clamp the top so its pulled tight and then drill new holes for both edges that have gaps, put in new dowels and when you remove the clamps it should be held tight again. You of course can't elongate the holes in the tenon of the breadboard with out removing the breadboard end but that would be a price to pay for the tight fit.

 

[Ollie78]

Thanks for all your responses so far.
The reason for the breadboard ends is to give the appearance of a continuous bead of red mahogany 10mm wide and 50 mm from the edge. I made up the ends with the 10mm strip of mahogany glued to the breadboard part before machining the mortice. From the top it appears that the red line is equidistant from the edge of the table.
I am seriously considering Chems` idea , but could I just glue the last 50mm of each end to acheive the same result.
I will post a photo if I can figure out how.

Thanks again.

 

[Chems]

By design the breadboard end isn't suited to glue, you'll be trying to glue long grain to short grain with a bit of long grain to long grain on the tenon if much of it is exposed which from your description not at lot is?

 

[woodbloke]

Thanks for all your responses so far.
The reason for the breadboard ends is to give the appearance of a continuous bead of red mahogany 10mm wide and 50 mm from the edge. I made up the ends with the 10mm strip of mahogany glued to the breadboard part before machining the mortice. From the top it appears that the red line is equidistant from the edge of the table.
I am seriously considering Chems` idea , but could I just glue the last 50mm of each end to acheive the same result.
I will post a photo if I can figure out how.

Thanks again.

I think you've made a rod for your own back here, if I understand the situation correctly in that the mahog banding is running through the breadboard as well as the main top? If this is correct, the banding in the bb end and top will only line up with the main table under certain atmospheric conditions as the both sections of oak (bb and main top) will shrink at different rates...in which case you'll see a step! I agree with Jacob though, that in this sort of furniture a banding is probably the wrong sort of detail to apply.
Pics would help here - Rob