Brazing here too?

[Chubber]

I've looked back at the thread, has no-one has mentioned 'Fluxite'? A thick, easily applied paste.

My tin must be twenty years old, and still works wonderfully. Doesn't spill, wipes off easily and is non-corrosive and can be applied very thinly and so stays where it is put unlike Baker's Fluid.

I recommend it to the house.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I've looked back at the thread, has no-one has mentioned 'Fluxite'?

It is interesting that the word printed on the tin in the picture is different to what you typed. This dual citizenship is also shown on a seller's website. Does your older specimen say the same?

https://soldersandfluxes.co.uk/product/tsc-fluxrite-paste-flux-for-copper-brass-steel/

I wonder if this is a Jif/Cif Marathon/Snickers rebrand. There is a very difficult to read page here on the company history:

https://wandle.org/news/issue31/briefhist.htm

 

[XTiffy]

I believe I have the book that Chailatte recomends in the workshop series (Ihave a bunch of them). I will have a look this morning. I shall go against the grain and suggest brazing! I have silver soldered many items over the years and I don't find it any more difficult than tin solder. The benefits are being able to choose a rod that more closely matches the metal being joined and strength. (despite its name the rods are available in many mixes of alloys).

 

[Chubber]

It is interesting that the word printed on the tin in the picture is different to what you typed. This dual citizenship is also shown on a seller's website. Does your older specimen say the same?

https://soldersandfluxes.co.uk/product/tsc-fluxrite-paste-flux-for-copper-brass-steel/

I wonder if this is a Jif/Cif Marathon/Snickers rebrand. There is a very difficult to read page here on the company history:

https://wandle.org/news/issue31/briefhist.htm

Definitely 'Fluxite' without the 'R' and with a picture of the fiendish looking Elf.

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/welding...WWul7B7Dq37eONjc6xnocfiKF8g7c53saAnkdEALw_wcB

 

[yngndrw]

The big difference between brazing and soldering is oxidation. Brazing occurs at a high enough temperature that you will see a lot of oxidation of the copper, but this doesn't happen anywhere near as much with soldering. When brazing air conditioning pipes, you need to purge the inside using a bottle of oxygen-free nitrogen.

A lot of people will say that you must use an oxygen-fuel torch for brazing, and I did start off using oxy-acetylene myself, but after getting fed up with bottle rental charges. (You can now get acetylene rent-free, there do seem to be supply issues, however: https://hobbyweld.co.uk/product-category/gas-welding/) These days, I use a Bullfinch 404 torch which works well for brazing - At least with smaller pipes: https://www.bes.co.uk/bullfinch-404-lpg-autotorch-brazing-blow-torch-kit-14850/

This chart sums it up:

I can't fully remember which rods I use off the top of my head as I don't do that much any more and purchased the rods a long time ago, but I believe these Phoson brazing rods are the same:
https://www.bes.co.uk/1-kg-phoson-brazing-rods-15995/

You don't need flux when brazing. I use a shade 3 glasses - the shade depends on the torch you're using, with shade 5 being more suitable when using oxy-acetylene. The hardest part of brazing is seeing when the copper is "cherry red" with the glasses - This isn't a problem when soldering as you are just waiting until the solder melts.