KeenToLearn
Established Member
I have cut the square end off a number of mine with a hacksaw and use them in a cordless drill at the slowest speed as they are not designed for high speed. Still work effectively!
Brace bit in a regular, electric or pillar drill ?
- Thread starter jimbo123
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Nail
Established Member
I was just about to post the same. The torque on my wrist for a self driving unit in a decent power tool is hard going but easily solved with the pilot hole.
Lidl have got the Sheppach bench pillar drill in at the moment. Don't know the price or what it's like, might be worth a look.
BillHoughton
Established Member
I've used some of the self-feed bits in a portable electric drill for running electrical lines/cables through framing. You need to brace the tool and be darned sure your hand won't get bludgeoned if the bit grabs. I wouldn't want to try self-feed bits, whether new or vintage, in a pillar drill ("drill press," in American lingo). I really don't need that kind of thrill ride.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I have used modern augers in my Meddings (which is not a toy pillar drill) but I've always clamped the wood down hanging off one side and allowed more than enough quill travel for the auger to pull itself all the way through when it grabs. I don't know that I'd try it with a Jennings pattern auger with the end cut off.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Get a Festool TDC18/4 with its long handle, super duper 4 speed gearbox and kickback stop if you're worried about it taking your thumb off if it jams.
https://www.festool.co.uk/products/...s-drills/577223---tdc-184-i-basic-gb#Overview
https://www.festool.co.uk/products/...s-drills/577223---tdc-184-i-basic-gb#Overview
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
The 18v Milwaukee Fuel has a side handle about 300mm long.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
I've got one of their low speed high torque framing drills with a long handle on it, it's very good.
Just to add pics of a couple of augers that ARE designed for use with power drills.
I assume because of the torque required, all mine have either hex shanks or flats at 120 degrees to match a 3 jaw chuck.
You can also get those adjustable diameter lip and spur bits with the same sort of shank.
I assume because of the torque required, all mine have either hex shanks or flats at 120 degrees to match a 3 jaw chuck.
You can also get those adjustable diameter lip and spur bits with the same sort of shank.
heimlaga
Established Member
I run a 38mm auger bit in an electric drill all the time. You just need a drill with enough torque and low enough speed and some means of holding the auger bit. So simple.
In this case the solution is a large slow running Eibenstock drill and an auger bit with a number 3 morse taper welded to it.
For smaller auger bits let's say up to 30 or 32 mm a drill of this type is generally suitable.
https://www.bosch-professional.com/se/sv/products/gbm-1600-re-06011B0000I have ordered one of theese. My old Naula machine of the same general type burned out after 70 years of service. I gave it to the town museum in Jakobstad where it was made...... and I regret it. I should have rewound it instead.
The myth that old auger bits aren't ballanced well enough is just a myth. If ballance and minor bends in the bit is an issue you are running the bit way too fast.
If I was to run old style square shanked auger bit in a power drill I would make an adapter. Either an old brace chuck or a home made variety of it with either a hexagonal shank to fit a modern chuck or a morse taper to fit the Eibenstock.
In this case the solution is a large slow running Eibenstock drill and an auger bit with a number 3 morse taper welded to it.
For smaller auger bits let's say up to 30 or 32 mm a drill of this type is generally suitable.
https://www.bosch-professional.com/se/sv/products/gbm-1600-re-06011B0000I have ordered one of theese. My old Naula machine of the same general type burned out after 70 years of service. I gave it to the town museum in Jakobstad where it was made...... and I regret it. I should have rewound it instead.
The myth that old auger bits aren't ballanced well enough is just a myth. If ballance and minor bends in the bit is an issue you are running the bit way too fast.
If I was to run old style square shanked auger bit in a power drill I would make an adapter. Either an old brace chuck or a home made variety of it with either a hexagonal shank to fit a modern chuck or a morse taper to fit the Eibenstock.
