Box Sash Windows

[Jake]

If you're going down the regs route, then I think you might have to go for 4-16-4 K glass. You can get away with less if you have argon filled.

4-6-4 will do for renovations (not new build) if you use Argon filled Optitherm units, with a following wind and a sensible BCO.

 

[Shadowfax]

'fireman friendly'
Huh?

SF

 

[RogerS]

'fireman friendly'
Huh?

SF

Sorry..bit obtuse..I was referring to the windows being able to open sufficiently so that firemen can get inside easily.

 

[Jake]

I always thought it was people being able to get out of them that was the concern - maybe over the shoulder of said fireman in desperation.

 

[RogerS]

John..forgot to add that there are a couple of 'How To make sash window' threads over at t'other place.

And while we're talking about the BC/Fensa niceties of windows, let's not forget the insistence on those wee little nylon brushes that are slid into a routed groove...already to suck up water and rot your windows in a couple of years time. :evil: Decently made windows don't need all that faffing about IMO.

 

[Shadowfax]

I'm there now!! Nothing to do with firemen getting in, Roger. We are talking about escape windows for getting out of the building at lower levels when the internal layout does not lend itself to using the doors.
Believe me if firefighters want to get in there is not much that will stop them.
I used to really enjoy kicking in doors!
Don't get the chance these days, though!
Shame. How sad. Never mind!

SF

 

[agbagb]

And while we're talking about the BC/Fensa niceties of windows, let's not forget the insistence on those wee little nylon brushes that are slid into a routed groove...already to suck up water and rot your windows in a couple of years time. :evil:

A different view on brush seals could be. Position them where they don't get wet, if they do get wet they should dry out rather than trapping water behind them. I'll be using them on the windows I'm making, only time will tell.

I've started the Blog I mentioned, http://slidingsash.blogspot.com/
It could be useful, when finished, to beginners like myself, who are thinking about making their own box sliding sash windows. If only to avoid any mistakes I might make.

Andy

 

[RogerS]

And while we're talking about the BC/Fensa niceties of windows, let's not forget the insistence on those wee little nylon brushes that are slid into a routed groove...already to suck up water and rot your windows in a couple of years time. :evil:

A different view on brush seals could be. Position them where they don't get wet, if they do get wet they should dry out rather than trapping water behind them.....

How do you stop driving rain?

 

[MikeG.]

For the avoidance of doubt, an escape (or emergency egress) window should be a min of 450 x 450 clear opening with a min area of 0.33 sqm........the effect of which is that the minimum opening becomes 450 x 750. Remeber also that the opening (not the cill height) should start at or below 1100 above finished floor level.

The clear opening includes the thickness of the casement.......eg if the opening is 500 wide, and the casement opens to 90 degrees and is 60 wide, the clear opening will be 440 and so non-compliant.

I appreciate we are talking sliding sashes here, but incomplete advice has a habit of being used out of context!!

Anyone still awake?

Mike

 

[agbagb]

How do you stop driving rain?

As far as I tell from TRADA advice, labyrinth as much as you can and have a void area behind the gap before the seal. The void area will lower the air pressure and drop any water. As long as the seal is good, water shouldn't be "sucked" in to the seal.

That's the theory, I'm hoping it will work in practice
Andy[/quote]

 

[RogerS]

How do you stop driving rain?

As far as I tell from TRADA advice, labyrinth as much as you can and have a void area behind the gap before the seal. The void area will lower the air pressure and drop any water. As long as the seal is good, water shouldn't be "sucked" in to the seal.

That's the theory, I'm hoping it will work in practice
Andy

[/quote]

I hope we'll see lots of WIP pictures!

 

[agbagb]

I'll be testing the design with the first one of eight. I'll let you know how it works out in practice.
Andy

 

[JFC]

I would wedge those tenons and change the dovetail for a haunched mortice and tenon if i where you , also wedged . I'll probably get my IP thingy blocked again so if you want more info or to talk it over then quite a few here have my details . It looks like you are doing a nice job , i'd hate to think it wont last because of a few small details .

 

[BradNaylor]

I would wedge those tenons and change the dovetail for a haunched mortice and tenon if i where you , also wedged . I'll probably get my IP thingy blocked again so if you want more info or to talk it over then quite a few here have my details . It looks like you are doing a nice job , i'd hate to think it wont last because of a few small details .

How did he get back on?

He didn't even have to change his name!

:wink:

Dan

 

[JFC]

Because i'm a nice baddy :wink:
I might do a " how too " on rad covers soon just for you

Byeeeeeee ..........

 

[BradNaylor]

I might do a 'how to' on spelling just for you.

:lol:

Dan

 

[JFC]

Too . To a greater extent than is possible . My spelling is correct :lol:

 

[MikeG.]

JFC,

I am being a pedant today, but you are wrong and Dan is right. "How to" is correct......."how too" would be wrong unless you meant "how also". Sorry!

Mike

 

[BradNaylor]

 

[agbagb]

I would wedge those tenons and change the dovetail for a haunched mortice and tenon if i where you , also wedged .

Good thoughts, thanks.
I was thinking a tight tenon without wedges would be good enough. I was concerned though that being so tight it would wipe the glue off on final assembly (I'm thinking of using PU). Can you enlighten me about use of wedges? Wedge(s) at the end(s)? Fox wedged?

Haunched M & T instead of dovetails. The bottom sash meeting rail is only 18mm deep, so if the tenon was 10mm would a haunch of 8mm leave enough material at the end of stile. The top sash top rail is 28mm so I think I should be able to fit one in there.

I only went for dovetails as that seems to be the traditional construction.

Any advice greatfully recieved.

Andy

PS. I posted too much on my blog yeserday and it's being reviewed for spam.