Bowls not centered once chucked?

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Chas wrote:

I personally see no reason one would not finish a piece off by removing all signs of work holding, to me it's akin to leaving tooling marks.

Hi Chas

I note from your gallery that you appear to have left a few 'tooling marks' on your earlier work :wink:

Regards Mick
 
Spindle":3ml3o9th said:
Hi Chas
I note from your gallery that you appear to have left a few 'tooling marks' on your earlier work :wink:
Regards Mick
Agreed, but observation of the work of others, both those with better finish and those that looked 'amateurish' in my eyes and a desire to 'improve' presentation sorted out the need for improved work holding methods to eradicate them as soon as experience and finances allowed.
As far as I recall the only pieces made in the last 4-5 years to carry holding evidence are things like the Salad Bowls which may require a freshen up on the lathe at some time. (page22)
I know by early 2006 all small items were clean based but I do remember a couple of larger diameter items in 2007, particularly an Elm bowl 2007-8 that had to leave with the vestigages of a socket because I could not reverse them.
 
Surely the intended audience plays a part. My wife and family think my first bowl is superb, spigot and all (carefully shaped to form a foot after my previous attempt at removal involved flying timber :grin: )

As nice as you fellow turners are you would likely be more critical of my foot/spigot!

For my part I'm happy with it but I can foresee a time when I turn something that I feel needs to be cleaned up (regardless of anyone else's opinion).
 
At the end of the day if the spigot or recess, whichever you use, is intended as part of the design then there shouldn't be a problem. What looks bad is when the recess is a gaping hole in the base of the object or the spigot is left with jaw impressions or serves no function, practically or design wise. I use both and sometimes none using hot glue onto a sacrificial mount but when using a recess I always shape it inside and sometimes texture it. If I use a spigot then it will either be removed or left as part of the design. It still needs to be reversed however to clean it up as in these noodle bowls.

walnut noodle bowls and chopsticks.jpg

Whichever method you use the item should look finished and have a good sense of design.
Pete
 

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Even a simple dimple in the base and a reversing of the spigot tenon angle can clean up jaw marks and provide an elegant foot.
spigot.jpg
 

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What would be your preferred method of holding the piece to clean up the base?

It's something I'm a bit unsure of and hate losing an hour or more of work by messing up at the last minute.
 
I have a face plate with a rounded wooden face screwed onto it and a high density foam mat glued to that. When turning the spigot I mark the centre so cleaning up is done by holding the bowl onto the mat with the tail. Things like vases etc can be done similarly using a jam chuck roughed out iof soft wood that the piece can fit onto.

Pete
 
I have slowly migrated to three types of jaws which cover all of my recent needs.
1: A set of Cole jaws fitted to a 125mm chuck, variously fitted with the standard buttons or home made buttons for added reach.
2: A set of Wood Jaws fitted with reasonable quality Birch Ply stepped internal extensions, very good for reversing boxes.
3: A complimentary set of the above with external gripping steps up a the max diameter of about 250mm.

Cole jaws:
file.php


The internal (2:) box jaws:
DSCN3646 (Large).JPG
 

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Mike Bremner":g1zyapp3 said:
I've finally properly finished my first bowl but had an issue with it not being centered when reversed.

I started with the blank mounted on a screw chuck held in the chuck and turned the outside along with a spigot.

Reversed the bowl and mounted it in the chuck jaws but the rim wasn't running true leaving an uneven width rim.

Is this to be expected? Everything I've read suggests finishing the outside before turning the blank around but this is the second time it's ended up this way.

I think I would be testing the true running of the screw chuck mounted this way.

just mount the screw chuck in the chuck and run the lathe to check everything is aligned. adjust the screw chuck a few times in the jaws, checking it's consistently 'true' against a tailstock centre each time.
 
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