Bowl movement not bowel LOL

[pops92]

Hi
Have just finished this natural edge walnut bowl. My first attempt so quite pleased. Did a bit of filling with coffee and ca glue worked well, so i thought :?
After a couple of days this as happened to the knot i doctored. Is this due to not being completely dry or the doctoring i did?

 

[Dalboy]

It's not down to what you did. If the blank was still wet even though it does not feel it then the wood will move and possibly crack. Let it sit for a month or two before trying to do any filling again.
Difficult to see from here but if it was wet then an even thickness wall may help to stop cracking in the main body as it will move if however the bottom is a lot thicker then you may have problems later on.
Knots in wood are normally the thing that will show cracks as stated above wait for it to finish moving then repair the cracks

 

[pops92]

Thank you for the Delboy. I have purchased another piece similar in size to the one shown. Wax sealed with 25% moisture content. Should I part turn and leave for a couple of months the check moisture content?

 

[thick_mike]

Did anyone else mis-read the title of this thread?!

 

[Roxie]

Did anyone else mis-read the title of this thread?!

Yes!!!

 

[CHJ]

Thank you for the Delboy. I have purchased another piece similar in size to the one shown. Wax sealed with 25% moisture content. Should I part turn and leave for a couple of months the check moisture content?

It needs to be below 12-15 % to contemplate finish turning.
At 25% moisture it is bordering on unsafe to turn to finished size unless very evenly thicknessed and being prepared for it to distort or split.
It will need to be turned in one session, most unlikely you will be able to go back to it another day and pick up proper tool control due to distortion (other than a scraper)
Safer to wet turn with appropriate wall thickness to allow for drying movement.
Whatever the diameter allow 10% of diameter as a minimum guide for wall and base thickness, aiming for even thickness throughout.
Not unusual to see a 200mm bowl move 20mm out of round whilst drying when wet turning.
Consider base location on chuck jaws, it will distort if wet turned and you may need to rework the base holding spigot/socket to get a good hold for finishing.

It might help prevent splitting if you partially wrap the wet turned bowl.


Edit:- Another short thread on wet bowl turning

 

[pops92]

Thanks for that CHJ
I intend to remove enough bark to mount it on the spigot shown to attatatch to my chuck, as I did the last one.

Would it be ok to get a rough outside shape without committing to doing the tennon. Then leaving for further drying.

 

[CHJ]

Using the dovetail ring is fine for initial holding whilst forming the outside and base mounting.
However can be a problem on base for wet turning the inside as holding screw depth will restrict the control of base thickness which is often a cause of cracking.

 

[pops92]

What would be the best way for me to produce this live edge bowl to remove some inner and outer material to aid drying. And then put it to one side to allow movement and then go back to it.
As you will of realised i am on the leaning curve here.
Please be patient with me

 

[CHJ]

Turn it up wet using a spigot or socket in base. (take care here as wet turned cross grain spigots and socket periphery's are prone to let go if too much load is applied when turning.)

Then reverse remount the same way with revolving centre for support as seen within these two links to true up base spigot/socket to provide good fixing for final turning.

Link One… actually finish turning a deep NE bowl but can use same holding principles for wet turning and remounting to finish.
Link Two

 

[Dalboy]

Just to add to CHJ's post when turning a tenon for rough turning make it slightly larger than normal this allows for distortion as it dries which means that you can return it to the correct size for the jaws and bring it round again giving the best support for the bowl.