Bonus lump of cherry from firewood logs

[OldWood]

I had a good load of logs delivered this afternoon which included quite a lot of wild cherry.

I haven't been through the lot - and may find some more of interest yet - but I found an almost rectangular cherry lump 11" x 10" x 3" which has come from a notch; the grain is almost straight on one side but wild on the other. What do I do about sealing this to allow it to dry - or would I be better to turn it in it's damp state ?

Thanks

Rob

 

[CHJ]

Seal the ends asap, wax old paint whatever. slow the drying rate down, try wrapping it in some brown paper or several layers of newspaper.

Cherry is not the easiest wood to dry but I have found that if you can cocoon it in it's own little micro climate and be patient then there's a good chance you will get away without excessive splitting.

Old potato sacks are good.

 

[Green]

I have got quite a lot of use-able bits from my log pile too, ash and beech mainly (and a few that I cant identify) perhaps I should get my wood ID book out.

Whereabouts are you? I'm between Tranent and Haddington.

 

[OldWood]

Hi Green - Livingston way (Kirknewton).

CHJ - My concern with this lump is that sealing the ends would seem a bit pointless as there is so much grain wood exposed - it's effectively a 10/11" square dish blank. This is a crotch piece that has been split down at the join. I do have some other cherry and I like your idea of the micro-climate for that.

Or am I misunderstanding how drying occurs - this is of course more than likely !!

Rob

 

[CHJ]

The wood will naturally loose moisture quickest through the end grain.
When this happens the wood on the ends shrinks and because the wood further in the piece is still swollen with moisture it starts splitting across the ends. Usually radiating from core to periphery.
Even with 'dried' wood cut up into turning blanks the periphery is coated in wax to reduce the risk of this happening when it's moved into drier workshop conditions, the whole periphery is coated because of the difficulty in determining the actual extent of end grain.

If you have any logs with split bark it may well help if you seal the splits as well to slow moisture loss and reduce risk of splitting through to core along the bark split line.

 

[OldWood]

Thanks Chas - I get it now.

I know this sounds a bit silly, but does paint take to wet wood ? Experience says it doesn't but that's when trying protect window cills, etc ?

Rob

 

[Bodrighy]

Gloss p;aint slapped on has worked for me before. Just literally slap it on good and thick.

pete

 

[CHJ]

Yes well enough for purpose, sawn surface will let it bond well enough, old oil paint, thick emulsion, anything in fact that can add a coating.

Best way to clear up all those odd cans of part used paint. You know your wood stocks are growing when you have not got any leftovers. :lol:

Using different colours can aid identification of batches 12 -24 months or longer down the line.

Even when using Wax to seal I often splash a little paint on the bark to identify batches.

If you are lucky enough to get relations and friends to acquire the odd log for you, asking them to splash some old paint on the ends until you can collect it is helpful. If not then ask them to put it in a dustbin bag to maintain the moisture slope around it.

 

[greybeard]

Just a general thought on the choice/use of sealing material (be that paint, wax, whatever); the reason for putting it on is to slow down the rate of evaporation - not to stop it. So whether it adheres perfectly or not is not really an issue - other than ensuring if you have a 100% effective sealant in place you actually leave a gap or two! That's why the exact nature of the material chosen doesn't matter too much
Like all good "everyone knows this" facts the actual rate of drying - i.e. the ratio of longitudinal cf radial evaporation - is highly variable. I've seen every value quoted from 3x to + 10x.....which is a fat lot of use! But of course it's affected by the type of wood, by the thickness and length, by the humidity of the drying/seasoning location, by the temperature, etc etc.
Good luck!