bolting to a concrete garage floor

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Random Orbital Bob

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My garage has a bog standard slab with a dpc buried in it somewhere. I may need to bolt down some heavy machinery and I'm concerned about:

a) getting a decent fixing and
b) avoiding puncturing the dpc

Any advice would be gratefully received as I have little experience of "heavy masonry" fixings. I've got an SDS drill and have done all manner of wall related masonry fixings. Just never directly downwards into concrete or similar. In other words never anything too meaty.
 
If they are heavy machines chances are they wont need bolting down. What are you planing on getting?
 
I agree with MMUK but to be honest unless your water table is very high, the amount of moisture that could come up a fixing hole is pretty minute and would possibly evaporate away without causing a problem.
Normally heavy machinery does not move about unless in use, it produces a lot of vibration.
You might want to consider mounting some wooden bearers to the floor and putting the machine on those.
Rigidly coupling a vibration source to a concrete slab could send the noise throughout the house (if this is in your home??)

Ideally correctly rated anti-vibration mounts are the proper way ahead but not cheap to buy new.

MM
 
I do plan on bolting two wooden bearers and the bandsaw to them....but what I need to know is the how...ie what fixings? MM you mention studs. Are you talking about those chunky looking fisher style bolts that are about M12 with an expanding shroud when tightened? And I like the resin idea....what brand. Apologies for the noob questions on this but I've just never had to do this before. I've laid a number of slabs before, just never had to drill into them with anything more chunky than a brown plug ie 7mm masonry bit.
 
Random Orbital Bob":v0svdr95 said:
I do plan on bolting two wooden bearers and the bandsaw to them....but what I need to know is the how...ie what fixings? MM you mention studs. Are you talking about those chunky looking fisher style bolts that are about M12 with an expanding shroud when tightened? And I like the resin idea....what brand. Apologies for the noob questions on this but I've just never had to do this before. I've laid a number of slabs before, just never had to drill into them with anything more chunky than a brown plug ie 7mm masonry bit.


Not quite.

This stuff:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/20054183 ... 80&ff14=95
 
Sounds like you've bitten the bullet on the bandsaw then Rob :)

I keep mine on a mobile base so that I can reposition it when needed occasionally.

I bolted the bandsaw to a couple of wooden bearers running from flush with the front of the base to beyond the back of the bandsaw base as far as I could while still fitting on to the mobile base.

Seems to work well in practice even with feeding larger wet logs through. The limiting factor is usually whether I can lift them on and manipulate them safely !

Cheers, Paul
 
Hi Paul

I haven't yet but am planning to. In fact I'm just about to post up my trusty BS300 for sale. It was that ash tree that tipped me over the egde, I need to process an entire tree so I need the larger capacities. Also its my birthday in a couple of weeks :)

I might just nip over to you and have a gander at your mobile setup before I jump because I would also like mine to be mobile ideally, provided that also handles the stability thang.
In any event I'll give you a shout if I make a trip to the Basingstoke store as I'm settled on the Axy 16" trade model. I did seriously review the startrites and the Jets but on bang for buck the Axy wins in that category.
 
Random Orbital Bob":2oio4z6v said:
Hi Paul

I haven't yet but am planning to. In fact I'm just about to post up my trusty BS300 for sale. It was that ash tree that tipped me over the egde, I need to process an entire tree so I need the larger capacities. Also its my birthday in a couple of weeks :)

I might just nip over to you and have a gander at your mobile setup before I jump because I would also like mine to be mobile ideally, provided that also handles the stability thang.
In any event I'll give you a shout if I make a trip to the Basingstoke store as I'm settled on the Axy 16" trade model. I did seriously review the startrites and the Jets but on bang for buck the Axy wins in that category.
Have a search on here for minimax bandsaw, there is a member who made their own moblle base to overcome the same tipping issue. :)
 
Alternative to bolting it directly down is to cut two long holes in the concrete with an angle grinder fitted with appropriate disc, only need to be 2" deep and about 2 - 3" wide - for extra strength 12" longer than the bolt holes.
Fix studs to this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/unistrut-...385?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item23364718a1 ( test fit on saw first ).
Put approx 1" of concrete back in the holes and tap the strut firmly to the bottom of the hole.
give it a wiggle check all measurements then re-fill with concrete - leveling the top with the trowel. When it sets you can drop bandsaw straight over struts or cut some this rubber into strips and put bandsaw on top.

To make things easier it may be worth making a template of the holes in plywood and fasten the plywood to the studs with nuts then you know once it dries the plywood can be removed and the bandsaw will slot straight on top.
 
The easiest bolts for concrete are Thunderbolts or similar. Different lengths and guages available, they are a self-tapping bolt for masonry and work well. Drill a hole a bit deeper than the bolt is long [for dust] screw the bolt in. No cloud of dust in sight. Job done.

They can be used close to the edge of a slab without splitting a lump off, and can even be re-used if you feel like it [same or different hole]
 
Bear in mind that although the UniStrut and equivalent is galvanised, the cement in the concrete will eventually eat through the galv coat and rust the steel. If you go down this route, I'd Hammerite it first.
 
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