Boiler leak advice

[JamiePattison]

Hi

I've found a boiler leak which can be demoed at this link



Is this something where I can tighten the nut or silicone the area where the leak is dripping from?

Or is this a more serious concern and a need for a boiler repairman?

 

[woodieallen]

Drain it. PTFE tape on the thread. Remake. Refill. Job done.

 

[JamiePattison]

Drain it. PTFE tape on the thread. Remake. Refill. Job done.

Hmm sorry I have no idea of what that means? Or how to drain it? FYI I don't have any plumbing/boiler skills

If you could give some instructions I'm happy to give it a go.

 

[Phill05]

If you don't have any plumbing skills please don't start off on a boiler call in a plumber it might be the cheapest way to go in the end.

 

[JamiePattison]

If you don't have any plumbing skills please don't start off on a boiler call in a plumber it might be the cheapest way to go in the end.

Fair point....I don't mind calling in a plumber but I just wanted to ensure it's not something simple to fix that I can do in 10-20 minutes

 

[Spectric]

You do not have to drain the system, shut off both pump valves and turn off the electrical supply to the system. Undo the nut where the drip is coming from which will drop down and allow you to remove the rubber washer which creates the face seal. Replace this washer and retighten the nut but do not over tighten, just nip it up. Open valves and check there is no leak, then turn power on and away you go. It might be prudent to replace both rubber washers but if the other one is dry then you could leave it.

 

[Stigmorgan]

The gasket within the joint may have failed or over the years of expansion and contraction from heating/cooling it has become loose, does the leak slow or stop when the pipes are hot? If so then it probably just needs nipping up a bit, if you want to try that it's simple enough but don't go heavy handed, just put the spanner on and pinch it round a mm or 2, it's soft metal and you can easily overtightened and strip the threads.

 

[Spectric]

I will add that those valves may be seized or very tight so if replacing them in the future use ball valves,

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-pump-valves-22mm-x-1-1-2-2-pack/20850

The Pegler ones are not cheap but well worth using, and this picture shows the rubber washers that are the cause of your leak.

 

[JamiePattison]

The gasket within the joint may have failed or over the years of expansion and contraction from heating/cooling it has become loose, does the leak slow or stop when the pipes are hot? If so then it probably just needs nipping up a bit, if you want to try that it's simple enough but don't go heavy handed, just put the spanner on and pinch it round a mm or 2, it's soft metal and you can easily overtightened and strip the threads.

The leak only happens when the valve is on auto. If the valve is set to manual the leak stops. I can try and tighten the nut.

You do not have to drain the system, shut off both pump valves and turn off the electrical supply to the system. Undo the nut where the drip is coming from which will drop down and allow you to remove the rubber washer which creates the face seal. Replace this washer and retighten the nut but do not over tighten, just nip it up. Open valves and check there is no leak, then turn power on and away you go. It might be prudent to replace both rubber washers but if the other one is dry then you could leave it.

In that case I suppose I can set the valves to manual. There are 3 valves, which ones do I set to manual(which I assume turns them off)?

Which is the electrical supply to turn off or what would it look like?

Do you know where and what washer is required?

 

[Bingy man]

The washers are simply called pump valve washers and as said are usually rubber but also can be the fibre type . A word of caution the isolation valve s when turned off may not seal fully due to age , corrosion, or build up of sludge deposits meaning that ghe water supply may not be fully isolated . Also it’s common for the valve nuts to seize to the threads of the pump especially if they were over-tightened when installed . As you fight to undo the joint you can easily disturb the opposing joint . In short I often ended up draining the system and replacing the valves completely. If you are not comfortable with this then pay a plumber or heating engineer to do it for you. No offence but reading your post tells me that you don’t know what you are getting into - water electricity ️ and your body don’t mix well .

 

[Bingy man]

Fair point....I don't mind calling in a plumber but I just wanted to ensure it's not something simple to fix that I can do in 10-20 minutes

It could be a 5 minute job or as my reply above end up being a 5 hour job .

 

[Fergie 307]

Definitely worth a try just nipping the nut up first to see if that cures it, but if you do need to change it.
For the electrical supply first turn the boiler off at its own control panel, then turn off the mains supply to it. Ideally it should have its own supply with a switch nearby, if not then turn off the relevant breaker on your consumer unit.
Then as Spectric says turn off the main valves above and below the pump, this will isolate it from the system without you having to drain it down. There will still be water in the pump itself, so you will have some come out when you undo the nut, maybe half a mugful, be ready for this. If you can get a container under it then I would loosen the nut a bit to speed up the drip, then wait till it stops, this will minimise the amount coming out when you fully undo it.
Replace the washer, plumbers merchant or Screwfix etc.
Then put it back together and turn the pump valves back on before you switch the power back on.

 

[Fergie 307]

Bingy Man makes a very good point. At the stage where I have said loosen it a bit to let it drip into a container, you may find the nut doesn't want to move atall. If that's the case then you will probably end up changing out the valves at least.
Maybe time to call a plumber at that point.

 

[Bingy man]

Again not wishing to offend the op but his knowledge on this subject is extremely limited- not knowing how a pump valve works or where and how to isolate the electrical side let alone perform a confirm/ safe isolation test is why together with what can go wrong on the wet side is why I’d advise him or anyone else with a similar lack of knowledge to get a professional in . It might hurt your pocket but that’s all and if the pro gets it wrong he’s liable for any damage . I say this because of the pump/ valves that I have had to heat to the point of no return , or physically cut out from pipework etc . Yes you could consider “ bunging the system” but this itself can cause problems if you don’t have the experience. . One other point is that leak is fairly small and minor but this may not be the case if you attempt to tighten the nut . The rubber washers get extremely brittle and the fibre washers once they leak they don’t usually stop .

 

[Terry - Somerset]

If you know what you are doing it may be a 5 minutes or 5 hour job - but it will get done without drama.

In the absence of a basic level of knowledge get a plumber in. You could clearly do the simple with no problem - eg: tighten the nut a few mm.

But if this fails, or worse creates a more major problem (eg: major leak, stripped threads etc) you will be left with an urgent repair, no idea how to fix it, no spares to hand etc. You will then need an emergency plumber with associated hefty call out charges.

 

[JamiePattison]

Thanks everyone!

I'll get in a boiler guy to do this. He will charge me for him driving and collecting the part that's faulty.

Can anyone confirm this is definitely the part required as when I compare it to the way I see the part in the video it looks different.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-pump-valves-22mm-x-1-1-2-2-pack/20850

 

[Spectric]

Yes they are the parts needed, come in two's and ball valves don't seize at least the decent ones.

 

[JamiePattison]

Yes they are the parts needed, come in two's and ball valves don't seize at least the decent ones.

Most likely a noob question but when I compare those parts I see the left side of the image (the image from Screwfix) which would match the top part in the video (which is showing the leak).

The bottom part seems to match but on the image it has a small nut protruding up. This is the area I don't see matching against the part on the video?

 

[Spectric]

but on the image it has a small nut protruding up.

Your valves use a slide with a control stem on the right which winds this slide up & down. The slide is in that flat section with the diamond shape embossed on it.

The ball type valve is much more compact and that small nut you are seeing is the stem that operates the ball to open and close.