Blum hinges

[Wilson joinery]

Hi everyone

I’ve generally used butt hinges on most of my projects and don’t have much experience of the kitchen cabinet/blum style hinges.

I’m sure I read somewhere on this forum that inset hinges aren’t designed to be flush with the carcass, is that right or have I misunderstood?

Also for a wardrobe build which sort of door style would look best in your opinion, overlay or inset?

Thanks in advance
Pete

 

[Spectric]

which sort of door style would look best in your opinion

This is subjective, what one person might like another might dislike and if this is for a customer then get them involved so they get what they like. I like inset doors on kitchen cabinets with frames and I think overlay came about because it is more tolerant on assembly and frameless cabinets and easier in a production shop wheras inset to me look more professional. I must admit I have not thought about wardrobe doors but again it comes down to style.

 

[Doug71]

I think inset look better, you can easily make overlay look like inset by adding a frame around, having end panels that finish level with the front of the doors or if it's built in having scribed fillets finish flush with the front of the doors.

Butt hinges suit more traditional styles but aren't as user friendly as the Blum style.

Some of it comes down to materials, if you are making the doors out of MDF chances are you will be using Blum style hinges.

I’m sure I read somewhere on this forum that inset hinges aren’t designed to be flush with the carcass, is that right or have I misunderstood?

Not sure what you mean by this?

 

[Wilson joinery]

Thanks for that Doug. I guess I’m just not 100% sure on face frames. So for example I’ve got a run of built in wardrobes all with inset doors sitting flush within the carcass. How do I then add a face frame which also sits flush with the doors and the carcass and doesn’t show the end grain of the carcass. The only way I can think of would be to have the inset door sitting in front of the carcass by say 18mm (if the doors are 18mm thick) and then I’d be able to get the face frame flush. Is it ok to use inset hinges in this way so that actually protrude from the carcass rather than sit inside the opening? And does that sound like an ok way of achieving a flush face frame?

Many thanks
Pete

 

[clive griffiths]

You make the frame then make the doors to fit. Clive

 

[Wilson joinery]

Thanks Clive, I think I’ve just been thinking about it the wrong way round. I’ll make the carcass and the frame first and then worry about the doors rather than the other way round!

Cheers
Peter

 

[Doug71]

Quick back of a *** packet type sketch while having a coffee, don't know if it helps.

1. Overlay hinge made to look inset by having the end panel level with the face of the door.

2. Inset hinge.

3. Inset hinge on a thicker mounting plate or block of wood.

 

[HOJ]

Link here to the product, which will also take you to the Blum catalogue page: Inset hinges

 

[Etaf]

have a look at this video and also peter millards
https://www.youtube.com/@10MinuteWorkshop/search?query=hinges

BUT the London carpenter recently did a video on 3 different types of cupboard hinges , and i found very useful



Also Robin Clevett did a video this week on some blum hinges - where no need to screw them in - they had sort of dowels that expanding

 

[trvlr]

using Blum (or similar ) hinges can allow almost anys tyle of installation and finish. And Peter Millard's videos (amongst many others of course) are excellent in this regard. All PM's how to videos are worth their weight in gold...

There are also some very useful jigs around these days which make the whole mark up and so on so much easier...; regardless of what the end look is to be. I wouldn't be without them today.

Also you could make a test model to get the "hang" of how to use Blum etc. hinges and in your current quandry see how it may actually work and look...?