BLO not hardening: Options?

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ColinDeVelen

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I have a project I am working on that is almost complete, I reached for the linseed oil, gave it a coat, and all looked fine. I gave it a second coat a day later, but now significant areas don't seem to be hardening. I tried putting the piece near a radiator, but that hasn't helped.
Has anyone run in to this in the past? If yes, what did you actually do?
I was thinking to wipe the sticky areas with a white spirit soaked cloth, to clean away the unset residue.
I will replace the tin, in case it is a storage thing, but it seemed strange that only some parts of the piece were affected.
 
Yes rub it off and don't apply any more until it's bone dry hard. Then the merest thin smear well rubbed in.
 
Linseed oil "dries" by oxidation, not by the evaporation of volatile compounds, so using heat won't accelerate drying. Wipe as much as you can and give it several days to dry.
 
Linseed oil "dries" by oxidation, not by the evaporation of volatile compounds, so using heat won't accelerate drying.
It will, it accelerates oxidation, but if it's on too thick it will skin over and the stuff underneath take a long time.
Wipe as much as you can and give it several days to dry.
Heat will help - warm room temp 20ºC or more.
I've found that linseed oil paint will still dry (oxidise) at low temps, but very slowly.
 
Linseed oil is best left in the bottle. I will never, ever use the stuff again.

Especially linseed oil paint.

Linseed oil paint manufacturers extol their green credentials. What they don't tell you is that pure linseed oil paint is a feeding frenzy for mould. And when you ask the manufacturer why this is happening they say "Oh, didn't you put in some zinc oxide ?". Go look up the green credentials for zinc oxide.
 
Linseed oil "dries" by oxidation, not by the evaporation of volatile compounds, so using heat won't accelerate drying. Wipe as much as you can and give it several days to dry.
I think you may be correct. The reaction is exothermic and so adding heat to it might actually reverse the reaction. Any chemists out there?
 
Linseed oil ( is a "drying oil" ) it oxidizes, then oxidizes some more and polymerizes, heating will speed it up a little, but what you really need is a siccative .Depending on what you can get now ( lead oxide and other lead based sicatives were withdrawn as they are poisonous ) you can mix the siccative into the linseed oil ( a few drops ) and then wipe it onto the linseed oil that you have already applied. When I was last in the UK, about 35 years ago, it was possible to buy small bottles ( about 250 ml ) of Cobalt "salt" based "Drier" ( siccative ) from ironmongers.The other siccatives could be found , but needed a specialist paint or varnish suppliers. Paint suppliers who sold or made what were called "signwriters enamels" ( highly pigmented lead based enamel paints ) also sold various siccatives, somewhere that sells signwriters paints or gilding supplies should sell the clear types.Sorry I don't know any of the current signwriters or gilding suppliers in the UK. Maybe @AdamW can suggest some.If you don't need the clear type, then a good trade paint supplier will probably have the Cobalt "salt" based or the Iron "salt" based siccatives.
A link for you.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agentHow Linseed oil ( and the other drying oils ) hardens is interesting, but still not entirely understood.
HTH :)
Yes the "green credentials" of siccatives are not impressive, not much to do with paint or varnish "tech" is , even the water based stuff.

If you have an old tube of "flake white" oil paint, that was made by mixing Lead Oxide with oils, "Zinc White" used Zinc Oxide instead, the two "whites" do not look the same , nor do they react the same with other oil paints over time. A lot of "modern whites" are Titanium Oxide based as it makes a brighter white ( more bluish ) but it is a nano particle which is bad in itself.

Important..Don't forget .Cotton rags that have linseed oil on them can ( and often do ) spontaneously combust, so don't leave them lying around, dunk them in a bucket of water ( with a quick squirt of washing up liquid ) and leave them outside to hang dry.
 
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I've been maintaining/replacing/replicating trad joinery for nearly 40 years.
I've been using linseed oil paints for about14 years now and they are excellent. Only tried the one brand Allback.
The big difference is that normal modern paints although tough and long lasting but tend to fail by cracking and letting water in. The result can be peeling off patches or in the worst cases completely waterlogged and rotten wood behind a painted surface which still looks ok from a distance. In the past I've had some embarrassing issues with my own stuff failing but make a point of always blaming the painter!
Linseed paints on the other hand fail but from the surface, not from behind. The result is that even when the paint is almost weathered away completely, the wood behind may still be in good condition. Never needs burning off - painting in perpetuity just means cleaning down and adding a coat every 5 to 10 years. Can be revived with oil alone.
Also linseed is very easy to apply and seems to stick to anything - metal work, over rust etc. It even sticks well to modern paints and can save failed paintwork from further deterioration.
Slow drying - warm weather helps, but will dry in cold weather slowly. Raw linseed oil as primer.
Self igniting rags - does happen but rarely, if loosely bundled in a dry place on a warm day etc. Never seen it myself except on youtube!
Nevertheless precautions have to be taken - basically keep them in a jam-jar with the lid on, or enclosed space, poly bag, needs oxygen to oxidise. etc. Can't keep them for long anyway as they still carry on drying, but handy while the job is going on.
It's good stuff and I won't be using anything else for external doors and windows. But it's never as shiny or colourful as modern paint.
It's also very cheap in spite of the price per tin - it goes a long way, needs no undercoat or primer, needs no brush cleaner, very long shelf life etc.
PS mould - yes can occur sometimes (like fine soot on the surface) but gets washed off in the normal window cleaning process. You might also have to wash down external doors occasionally - nothing too difficult just a sponge and soapy water. Polish the brass while you are at it!
 
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I made my own linseed oil paint in various colours, dead easy and super cheap.

What’s your recipe? I’d love to find literature in the old recipes along with what anti fungal gloop to add for a modern version. I’ve never understood why the modern premixed linseed oil paint is so expensive considering the cost of the ingredients is so low in comparison
 
Has anyone tried terebene driers in b.l.o?
I used it many years ago in oil based gloss onto metal windows in a bathroom in the middle of winter. It worked very well.
Back to the linseed oil, are we referring to the boiled variety as this does go off quicker than the unboiled.

Colin
 
What’s your recipe? I’d love to find literature in the old recipes along with what anti fungal gloop to add for a modern version. I’ve never understood why the modern premixed linseed oil paint is so expensive considering the cost of the ingredients is so low in comparison
It's not that expensive compared to acrylic paint. We painted our house with ottossons linseed oil paint. It was significantly cheaper than acrylic or other "modern" paint. The only anti fungal additive you need is zinc oxide. Also, be very careful about the quality of linseed oil.

Anout the original topic. I would not try to add more siccatives. Wipe away excessive oil and put it in a warm, bright place with good air circulation to help it oxidize. What kind of oil did you use? Linseed oil do not age.
 

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