Blast gate location

[Wizard9999]

I am in the process of an extraction upgrade, one question that has come to mind is on the position of blast gates. If, for example, I have a junction splitting my ducting run I could place a blast gate immediately after the point at which the duct run splits, or I could put it close to the machine the run goes to (or indeed anywhere in between). Will any particular position be materially better for the performance of the 'system'? Or, is the difference so small that ease of access to open and close the more important factor when selecting the location of the gates?

Thanks for any thoughts.

Terry.

 

[DiscoStu]

I have my blast gates as close to the machine as possible for ease of use. I personally I can't see you loosing much suction by having it elsewhere.


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[AJB Temple]

Reg teaching workshop at Axminster has all blast gates close to the machine at the transition point between rigid hose and fixed hose. Works well.

 

[Wizard9999]

Yes, have been doing a bit more surfing and found a very old thread on a US forum where a chap had his system designed by Oneida and they put the blast gates at the fixed to flexible hose junction as well. So that seems like the answer, which is jolly good as it is also likely to be the most convenient position.

Terry.

 

[PAC1]

There is a theory that the blast gate should be near the branch so that it does not create turbulence and fill the leg with chippings. But the practical place is as you say, the joint with the flexi

 

[AJB Temple]

The advice from Axminster workshop by the way was also use metal gates that can be taken apart, as the plastic ones are very difficult to clean out when they get blocked by wood dust / chips. Metal gates are only slightly more expensive.

 

[DiscoStu]

I just have an old tent peg with a 10mm right angle at the end. That gets into the groves and gets rid of anything stuck in the slot. I use it with the gate open and extraction on so any debris is sucked away. I very rarely have to use it at all.

I can see that taking apart would be an advantage but it happens rarely and my method works for me so I'm not bothered about it.


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[Jelly]

The advice from Axminster workshop by the way was also use metal gates that can be taken apart, as the plastic ones are very difficult to clean out when they get blocked by wood dust / chips. Metal gates are only slightly more expensive.

I've had a lot of contact with the "gate-valve problem" in piping runs for liquids and sludges and the normal solution is simply to mount the valve upside down, so that the slot the gate fits into is at the top.