Blade setting jig for surface planer.

[Fred Page]

Does anyone on this list care to comment on magnetic planer blade setting jigs. I can't find a UK supplier but feel that I've seen them advertised in America. Are they really such useful things?
Any opinions will be of interest.
Fred.
ps who is just about to remove planer blades for the first time and hopes to be able to re set after sharpening.

 

[Mike-W]

Hi Fred
I think this might be what you are looking for
[http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/DKPNJIG||Jig~@c~@b|30|user|1,0,0,1|126|] and they have a sale on which is about to end!
Mike

 

[Scrit]

Hi Fred

I use a set by the German firm Panhans. A while back Rutlands were doing what looked like a Chaiwanese knock-off of the design for £20 odd (my Panhans were the best part Of £90 about 8 years back), however they appear to have dropped them...... The only real downside to the small jigs is that, being magnetic, they need a steel cutter block - they don't hold onto ally too well :roll: . I'll try to find a pic for you

Edit: Correction - yes, that's them.

Scrit

 

[WellsWood]

Fred,
Can't comment on the Rutlands ones, but I bought these (the Rutlands ones are described as "Dakota" but look identical) recentlyand would not recommend them. The Poolewood ones are rubbish, mostly plastic and therefore a bit bendy, hopelessly inaccurate considering the tolerances planer blades need to be set to to get good results. They also don't work on blocks with a diameter less than 75mm because the central pin fouls the nearest magnetic block before it gets to the edge of the knife.
I could go on, but suffice to say - just spend your money on a dial gauge and magnetic base instead and set your knives to the outfeed table - a better idea on a surface planer anyway since thats the relationship that matters, not blades to block like these are intended for. Cheaper by a few pennies too.
Shame really 'cos they look like very good idea.

Mark

 

[Scrit]

That's a pity. The original Panhans design is cast aluminium and brass and it actually works very well indeed, although it does require something like a 70mm diameter block to work on. Once you have set-up the jigs and locked them they give consistently repeatable settings time after time and turn a 30 minute plus chore (doing 4 cutters) into a simple 10 minute task. Until quite recently I had a P/T with 4 cutters so this was absolutely essential. As to setting from the outfeed table with a dial gauge I've found that whilst it is accurate (although no more so than setting to the cutter block) it is very slow and time consuming as well as being somewhat more error prone as each end needs to be measured and checked each and every time you change the blades. It really shouldn't matter whether you set-up the cutters from the block or the table so long as the table is correctly aligned with the block - which it needs to be in any case.

Scrit

 

[dennyk]

Hi Fred
I have the dakota ones from Rutlands, I have found them OK, to set the 3 blades on my Tendo Planer Thicknesser, I would therefore recommend them

 

[wrightclan]

Here's how to make your own, if you have cast iron tables.

Brad

 

[Fred Page]

Yesterday I posted the topic of magnetic planer blade setting jigs – this is to thank those who replied. I’m now inclined not to invest in such a device.
I’ve had good service out of a 6 inch SIP planer and only recently decided to consider having the blades reground. To this end I attempted to undo the blade lock screws only to find that in the manufacturer’s original set up the flats of the hexagon socket head (into which the Allen key fits) have been stripped in two cases... I now have a useless planer. SIP has offered to supply new bolts and to remove the damaged ones but only if the planer is returned to their works. The original supplier, Carpenter and Goodwin of Leominster offered similar service. In both cases I have the trouble of transportation and of being without this machine at great inconvenience.
I post this notice to ask whether this is a common experience with blade lock screws.
What is the advantage of a hexagon socket over a good old fashioned screw slot?
I suspect that SIP or the retail supplier will merely drill out the offending screws, hopefully without damage to the screw thread in the cutter head. Whatever means they employ I’m pretty fed up – this kind of defect should not happen. Do expert engineers have a trick or two of removing such damaged bolts? I have the feeling that the metal used in the bolts is simply not hard enough but I may be in error!
Magnetic jigs are not now very high in my priority list.
Fred.

 

[Fecn]

If the heads of the bolts are accessible, first I'd try mole grips, and if that fails, I'd cut a slot in them with my dremmel and then use a normal screwdriver to remove them.

If the heads of the bolts aren't accessible, you might be able to use one of the ready-made bolt removers... something like this one...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040219960

Good luck,

Fecn

 

[Scrit]

Hi Fred

Sorry to hear of your woes.

I post this notice to ask whether this is a common experience with blade lock screws.

Sadly, yes, it happens. I've found it necessary for a number of machines over the years to grind off bits from spanners to get them into the nuts and then still had nuts round off. :roll: This doesn't just apply to hobby machines, some of the Italian trade stuff is just as bad

What is the advantage of a hexagon socket over a good old fashioned screw slot?

From my experience a hex head tightens up firmer, albeit at a greater risk of stripping a thread, especially in ally blocks. The slotted head machine screws of my old Robland (ally cutter block) were no better as they all ended-up spelching-out with extended use. Replacing them meant buying a die and finding an engineer as Robland had changed the design in the meantime.

Scrit

 

[9fingers]

How easy is it to get the cutter block out?

Maybe SIP would exchange this as an item for you?

If you could post a photo, maybe we could suggest a screw removal method.

I'm nownere near you (southampton) otherwise I could come and have a look. I have reasonable engineering experience and a metal working shop at home but just starting out in woodworking.

Bob

 

[DaveL]

Fred,

Something you could try is a centre punch to undo the bolts. You need to get hold of a thinnish punch, grind a good sharp point on it.

You then gently punch the head of the bolt, as near to the edge as possible with the direction of the blow heading anticlockwise on the bolt. You may need to try a couple of different spots on the bolt to make it move, once it has moved then try using the allen key to wind it all the way out.

I used this on japanese motor bikes back in the 70's when they appeared to made the phillips head screws that held all of the cases on from high carbon cheese. :roll:

 

[Fred Page]

Thanks to all who responded to this query.
I have removed the offending bolts by using a sharp centre punch and am greatly indebted to Dave for suggesting this. I drilled a very small starting hole in the bolts' heads and with gentle and regular tapping the bolts came loose. From now on they will not be overtightened although for safety's sake there is an inclination to do so - I shall simple check them on a regular basis. Hopefully a new set of bolts will arrive from SIP. Thanks again to everybody and UK workshop.

 

[9fingers]

Hi Fred,

Glad to hear you have been successful getting the bolts out. When you get the new ones from SIP they are likely to be a soft as s**t so you may want to get some proper high tensile socket caps screws that will allow full tightening and reliable removal.
If you need some help finding these and measuring what threads you have then I'd be glad to help. In fact you might want to send me the remains of one of the knackered ones and I'll try find some decent replacements

PM me if so and I'll send you my address

Bob

 

[DaveL]

Fred,

I am pleased that you have got the bolts out. It would appear that I can remember some useful things from my miss spent youth.:roll:

It does sound like they are not very good quality and I would take Bob up on his offer of getting some good quality ones for the machine.